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There's a Brand New 06 250x in my Garage!

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After much hand-wringing about whether to get a 450 or a 250, I pulled the trigger and picked up a brand new 06 250x. At 5'9 and 180 I deemed the 450 to be too much for my woods focused riding. I think the 250 will be perfect. Yeeha. :applause:

Now I need some guidance on what issues I should attend to before I start breaking it in. I have done some searching for answers, but my internet time is limited so any help would be appreciated.

Questions:

(1) Jetting - can I get by with the CA needle? Or should I get a 49 state or JD needle? (I ride between 3,000 -6,000 feet and it gets pretty warm.) Suggestions on jets would be appreciated. Currently, I am thinking 145 main, 42 pilot, 55 leak, stock needle 4th clip, but I haven't touched it yet.

(2) Suspension - should I set the sag right away, or wait until the bike has been ridden a couple hours and things have had a chance to settle?

(3) Exhaust - Any reason (other than a little more sound) why I shouldn't pull the exhaust plug?

(4) Is there a favorite skid plate?

(5) Any other tips that you think would really help me enjoy the new 250?

Thank you! :applause:

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Set sag right away and check it after your first ride and then after that ride. It will probably need adjusting. I have heard the works connection skid plates suck but do not have any experience with them. You will probably want to pick up some new air filters. If you ride in wet conditions where you risk water getting in your airbox, do not use no toil filter oil as water passes right through it. For air filters, i suggest staying away from twin air and moose. I have tried twin air, moose, white bros, and oem. On overall quality, oem is the best, white bros is second, and moose and twin air are tied. I ordered 2 moose filters and one fit great (still not as good as oem or white bros) and the other fit horribly. The twin air fitted ok, but didnt seem to have the best seal, and the foam seemed rather thin. For air filter oil and cleaner, i highly suggest PJ1 aresol cleaner and oil. You should change the oil every 5 hours and filter every 15 (max). I have a CRT reusable for sale in the classifieds for 30 bucks, if you dont mind spending the time cleaning it. I just found it easier to order a bunch of paper filters in bulk on ebay. For oil, I have had very good luck with Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic, but there are a lot of other good oils... just stay away from castor and any 10w-30. (i am not trying to start a oil debate). One more very important thing you will want to pick up is a hour meter. You can get one in the lawn and garden section at sears. THis is the first thing you should buy. Also if the x came with the crappy 739f like the R did, i suggest replacing it with a michelin MS3, if you ride in soft to intermediate terrain. It made a world of a difference to me. Not sure about jetting, because i have the R. Hope this helps

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Congratulations on the new bike! I love mine; it is a goat trail riders dream.

Jetting, spend the money and get the JD kit with the pilot jet. You will not regret it.

Suspension, wait a few hundered and set it. I re sprung for my weight and am very happy with that decision.

Exhaust, I drilled the hole, can’t tell much difference in noise or power.

Skid plate, the flatlands seams to be a favorite along with their radiator guards.

The only thing else I did was to gear down one on the front, great tight trail gearing and I usually don’t need any more speed.

Enjoy the new ride.

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Congrats on the purchase! I can't help you with all of your questions, but I can speak to a couple of them.

1. The dealer rejetted my bike before delivering it. I'm not sure how it's set. I plan on opening up the air box in a couple of weeks and having it dyno-jetted after that.

3. I believe the consensus in here is that pulling the baffle creates more noise without a proportional increase in power. As Agent Smith recommended, the more popular option is drilling out the baffle slightly. This gives a little more flow, but doesn't open things up enough to kill any low end power. See http://rickramsey.net for more info.

4. Like many others, I'm running a Flatlands skid plate. Not too pricey, fits very well, and is solidly built. Probably a 5 minute install.

5. I also recommend picking up a pair of Flatlands radiator guards/braces. They are also easy to install, and offer great protection. Like Red Rooster, I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket. The difference this made was the best mod I've done so far.

Good luck and enjoy the X!

-JP

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The only mandatory thing is radiator braces or guards, whichever you prefer, I find braces such as those made by Works Connection sufficient---without them, you'll mush a radiator the first time you tip over. If its a CA model its probably very lean on jetting and since a number of different carb parts need changing you should probably go with the JD kit. I choose not to cut the whole top off the airbox---it isn't necessary to get enough air and it lets a lot of dirt get onto the filter. I just pulled off the snorkel and cut the openings underneath to about 2 1/2 times original length, then drilled about a dozen 3/8" holes in the area around and under the battery tray. In my opinion, nothing fits the frame of the airbox like the stock filter--I suggest sticking with it and I recommend a high tack filter oil such as Bel Ray. I took the quiet insert completely out of the muffler--I think it does make more power this way but you should consider this a competition only mod. DO EVERYONE A FAVOR AND DON'T RIDE IT THIS WAY AROUND PEOPLES' HOMES! Out in the boonies only. A case guard is a good idea--I use the DeVol. I took off the front sprocket cover--it packs up with mud really bad---but left the spacers and chain guard in place. Don't forget Bark Busters (hand guards). Enjoy!

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Lots of choices here. I cut my airbox, rejetted with 42 slow jet, 55 leak jet, 150 main, Kouba T-fuel screw, Stock needle, but dropped 1 position if I remember, Rooster radiator guards (really beafy), Works Performance skid plate (not bad for my use), and a longer airfilter screw from Cyclegear (really helps for installs). I added barrisers, but I am a smidge over 6'. I also added a bicycle speedo (Schwinn) for under $10 from WallyWorld. I left the exhaust stock for the neighbors. Oh, Acerbis guards help in a fall. Buy some long, thin metric feeler gages for the valve checking. I prefer the metric, as the values are tighter.

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Skinner...

You are the same size/weight as me and I love the 250X

I am running a 45 pilot with a 165 main, JD red #5 and an open air box with the TwinAir filter. I also installed a Hot cam stage 1 and a FMF Ti slip on (the reason for the slightly bigger jets)

This bike just rocks... super responsive and has great power.

If you are going to do any carb work I would highly suggest the JD system. The kit includes an AP o-ring, needles and jets, and some great info on how to open up the air box... then protection, protection, protection

Rad guards and skid plate before your next ride.

later...

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Wow. Thanks for all the great advice. I guess it's time to visit the TT store for some goodies. I will report back once I get the jetting done. :applause:

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Alright. I've modified the airbox, installed the JD jetting, and reamed the exhaust plug. (Agent Smith's Home Depot tool suggestion was a big help installing the pilot.) What I have not done is the AP mod. The o-rings came with JD kit (as did the 42 pilot) but I'm stumped as to how the install the 0-ring. Are there clear pictures somewhere of how these mod gets implimented? Thanks.

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Today was the first ride with air box, JD jetting and no smog pump! :lol: I put thirty miles on and it runs great. While the 450 power would be nice in the wide-open areas, this thing will be perfect for Northern California woods! :lol:

I have cooked up a couple more new guy questions: (1) Is 30mm really the correct amount of slack for the chain? It seems tight. (2) When I install my bark busters, will I have to cut the throttle tube? Or does it have pop-out plug? (3) The steel cap on my left boot is scratching the pretty magnesium cover. Any remedy for this? (4) How big a pain are the flatland radiator guards to install? And are they worth it? Or should I just go with the WB braces?

Thanks for all the help. :applause:

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Today was the first ride with air box, JD jetting and no smog pump! :lol: I put thirty miles on and it runs great. While the 450 power would be nice in the wide-open areas, this thing will be perfect for Northern California woods! :lol:

I have cooked up a couple more new guy questions: (1) Is 30mm really the correct amount of slack for the chain? It seems tight. (2) When I install my bark busters, will I have to cut the throttle tube? Or does it have pop-out plug? (3) The steel cap on my left boot is scratching the pretty magnesium cover. Any remedy for this? (4) How big a pain are the flatland radiator guards to install? And are they worth it? Or should I just go with the WB braces?

Thanks for all the help. :applause:

I'll come over and do it for ya!

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If you're referring to the radiator guards, I guess I should be more specific. Bolting them on the bike is easy. But threading that bottom shroud bolt can be a PITA - it was with the Devols I had on my KTM. Having those guards on made taking the tank off much more difficult than I wanted it to be. That's what I'm looking to avoid. Is there a way around this with the Flantlands?

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If you're referring to the radiator guards, I guess I should be more specific. Bolting them on the bike is easy. But threading that bottom shroud bolt can be a PITA - it was with the Devols I had on my KTM. Having those guards on made taking the tank off much more difficult than I wanted it to be. That's what I'm looking to avoid. Is there a way around this with the Flantlands?

There is no interference with Flatland guards. No issues w/ gas tank removal or installation. Have had them since 4/04.

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