Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Report on engine teardown

Recommended Posts

OK ladies, heres what I discovered upon inspection of my engine parts after first top end tear down with 1100 miles on it.

Valves: In perfect spec. Same measurements as when I first check them at 100 miles. Valve face/ seats are perfect under 10x magnification.

Cylinder: No vertical scratches(result of good AF maintenance), No lip at top of ring travel. I do not have a bore gage but I believe that it would spec. well within OEM tolerances based upon the way it looks to me, and what the other parts look like.

Piston: No scuffing on skirt (expected to see some) No burnt oil on pin boss, or in ring land areas. I see this as an indication that the oil I used was doing a good job, that it was no combustion overheating throughout its life span. I wouldn't have replaced it if I hadn't already purchased it.

I also noted that the top ring was doing a good job at sealing the combustion pressure. There was significant oil build up on the piston top, and valves. This was caused by a failing oil ring and the bottom of the compression ring was chamfered at 10x. Kind of an odd thing to see the one side of the ring worn like that. End gap was in spec.

While it was down I decided to remove the ignition cover, as I recall some posts on the R forum indicating that they had metal buildup on the magnet. None found in my engine. In the future I would rely on what the oil filter catches before I deal with that gasket again.

Summary; Bottom line is that she did need rings. I'm glad to freshing her up, but I would wait at least 2k before I was to do it again, if the valves were in jeopardy, or until the plug fouled.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm glad to hear it. Sounds like the bike is all good, thx for the info....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was using oil, though very little. Guesstimate would be 1 oz.. per 100 miles +/-.

I have always (except last oil change) used the Honda HP 10/40 with Molly in the engine, and HP W/O Molly in the gear box.

Last change I used the HP 20/50 on the engine, and the Honda Red stuff in the gear box.

I will go back to the 10/40 with Molly on the engine, and the Hp 10/40 in the gearbox. It seemed to me that the red stuff broke down to quickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I Just got my 450 and the dealer made it very clear the bike WILL burn oil. He stressed the importance of checking the oil because of this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I Just got my 450 and the dealer made it very clear the bike WILL burn oil. He stressed the importance of checking the oil because of this.

Funny thing I just ran 560 miles of dirt all 4th-5th gear pinned and did not burn 1 ounce of oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find checking the oil the right way and the same way everytime has fixed my concerns about oil burn. They do burn a tiny bit of oil much usually.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My bikes use a little oil when new but once seated they use hardly any.

I go through one or two heat cycles,then run my bikes in hard, not rev to the moon hard just put them under load, they seem to run better for it,and yes after an hour or two they use very little oil though i do check it very regularly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was merely quoting what i was told by the dealer. and with 2.8 km on my bike, i find it does smoke a little upon start up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×