Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

klx chain and sprocket

Recommended Posts

I was interested to know if any of you have messed with the sprockets any, I currently am running on my klx300 a 15 in front and 50 in back (I think that is stock) and with riding in the tight woods was thinking about a bigger back sprocket to get into 3rd more often and down shift to 1st less often. Dirt Bike magazine has had some interesting stuff to say about Sidewinder brand sprockets, does a lighter sprocket make all that much difference over the steel ones? Also heard that an o-ring chain takes more ponies to turn, is an o-ring going to rob power from me? Thanks for any input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An often suggested mod is a 13 tooth counter sprocket which does improve low end. I run one and have noticed an improvement, but still not the low end grunt of an XR. Maybe a 13 tooth and a couple more teeth on the rear? Depends on the riding you do. If an o-ring chain weighs more than a standard chain, I suppose it could take a little more hp to turn, but it would be a miniscule amount. If you run a high hp machine and ride hard and often, you can eat up aluminum sprockets, but I don't think that would be too much of a worry with a KLX. :0 Likewise, don't expect any power dfference by switching to aluminum over steel. A KLX simply doesn't rev fast enough to know the difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stock gearing on the KLX300 is 14/50. On faster more open trails I use stock gearing. On the tighter slower single track trails I gear down to 13/50. If you have a 15 up front a 13 or 14 will make a noticeable difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Stock gearing on the KLX300 is 14/50. On faster more open trails I use stock gearing. On the tighter slower single track trails I gear down to 13/50. If you have a 15 up front a 13 or 14 will make a noticeable difference.

Good advice

Rocky Mt can do this for 8 bucks, steel is fine for you and will last. I have 3 counters that I can swap back and forth on my WR and YZ, The difference in a tooth up front is severe, think of it like this.

Stock 40 / 14 = 2.85

Street 40 / 15 = 2.66

Woods 40 / 13 = 3.07

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

O-ring chains use more HP due to drag from the O-rings. Noticeable? Maybe to some folks. And of course, to all poseurs.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

right, so i've got the 14 in the front and switched to a 52 in the back. IF i switch to a 13 in the front, would that be a little excessive?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
right, so i've got the 14 in the front and switched to a 52 in the back. IF i switch to a 13 in the front, would that be a little excessive?

Yes probably - unless you NEVER find yourself in 5th or 6th and ride gnarly goat trails and trials like rocks. But it's a cheap and easy experiment for you. The CS sproket is easy to get off - unless you have the newer version. If you have the newer (held on by nut) version, have your shop break it loose for you the first time and don't put it back on that tight! :-) Think of a CS sproket as 4 rear sproket teeth. You're currently half way between a 13/50 and 14/50.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well the 14/50 is stock. so someone tinkered with you sprokets unless you go the wrong number on your sproket. i would not go higher in the rear it is not needed. i would either leave the stock rear and then put a 13 counter tooth sproket on. you will have enough power then. the other option is to leave the counter tooth alone and then change the rear to a 48 and you should be good.

aluminum aposed to steel can make a difference. i would personaly stay with steel only becuase of the trail riding. i you bend one of those you will be walking your bike back to camp. hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
right, so i've got the 14 in the front and switched to a 52 in the back. IF i switch to a 13 in the front, would that be a little excessive?

Toni, for $15 just get one and try it. You shouldn't have to change the length of the chain to use it.

Ride on

Brewster

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok, so I think Ill just experiment with some of the cs's and if i decide to go to something exspensive like sidewinder Ill have a better idea of what I need

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
well the 14/50 is stock. so someone tinkered with you sprokets unless you go the wrong number on your sproket. i would not go higher in the rear it is not needed. i would either leave the stock rear and then put a 13 counter tooth sproket on. you will have enough power then. the other option is to leave the counter tooth alone and then change the rear to a 48 and you should be good.

aluminum aposed to steel can make a difference. i would personaly stay with steel only becuase of the trail riding. i you bend one of those you will be walking your bike back to camp. hope this helps.

no, it's definetley a 52 on the rear. i put it there when i replaced the trio. i kept the front stock. i think you were speaking to me KLXfool.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes probably - unless you NEVER find yourself in 5th or 6th and ride gnarly goat trails and trials like rocks. But it's a cheap and easy experiment for you. The CS sproket is easy to get off - unless you have the newer version. If you have the newer (held on by nut) version, have your shop break it loose for you the first time and don't put it back on that tight! :-) Think of a CS sproket as 4 rear sproket teeth. You're currently half way between a 13/50 and 14/50.

i have an older one with just that little clip. very easy change indeed!

Toni, for $15 just get one and try it. You shouldn't have to change the length of the chain to use it.

Ride on

Brewster

i'll give it a shot. if i don't like it i can ditch it easily!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dammit, i'm confusing myself.

bigger in the back/smaller in the front=more low end/torque

smaller in the back/bigger in the front=more top end/high speed

???

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have 14t front (stock), 47t rear on mine. First gear is usable now in the tight stuff and it does pretty well out in the open too. If you go to 13-50, you'll be able to climb rocks w/ no throttle in first gear if that's what you're into. My son has an o-ring chain on his KDX. What a B!@#$#tch to get the master link back together. I like my steel chain and sprockets. Just keep it lubed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×