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Pitster 125X2R Questions after my first ride.

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Just got my Pitster and took if for a break in ride around the block several times. After getting used to it and getting a feel for it I must say Very nice! FUN! I like it. Sounds NICE!! “Like my CRF250” :applause:

Rides pretty good.

BUT there are some features on the bike that could be better. I have a few questions.

1. Both brakes have way to much drag the wheels don’t turn freely. How can you fix This?

2. :lol: The stock throttle assembly really sucks, what is a better replacement? I saw a post about replacing the assembly. What’s good?

3. :applause: The clutch lever & cable is probably the worst thing on the entire bike. IT’S A joke! So I will replace with an AVS. BUT can I replace the cable too.

4. I have not rode it in the dirt and have not felt it on any bumps yet, BUT The front forks feel VERY stiff and unforgiving. YES I do have the clickers set ALL the way to the softest position. What is the deal there dose not appear to be any adjustably in the clickers. Overall the forks rebound is really stiff and slow. And IF I dial the clickers any harder it almost takes the spring out of the fork completely. ANY input????

5. Do most KLX 110 parts fit the Pitster 125X2R?

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1. Both brakes have way to much drag the wheels don’t turn freely. How can you fix This?

2. :applause: The stock throttle assembly really sucks, what is a better replacement? I saw a post about replacing the assembly. What’s good?

3. :applause: The clutch lever & cable is probably the worst thing on the entire bike. IT’S A joke! So I will replace with an AVS. BUT can I replace the cable too.

4

I feel your pain...the brakes were like that on my x2r too...i took them apart several times to see what was up but could not find an answer

i changed the throttle tube to a RedBarron billet throttle...but if you do this you need to get an extended throttle cable for a crf50...you can get an extended one from TB (trail bikes) for pretty cheap, i think like 12 bucks or something...The stock pitster cable was acually too long and couldnt be adjusted tighter to work with the aftermarket one..also the lil hook at the end of the pitster throttle cable was too big to fit in the new throttle tube

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Just got my Pitster and took if for a break in ride around the block several times. After getting used to it and getting a feel for it I must say Very nice! FUN! I like it. Sounds NICE!! “Like my CRF250” :applause:

Rides pretty good.

BUT there are some features on the bike that could be better. I have a few questions.

1. Both brakes have way to much drag the wheels don’t turn freely. How can you fix This?

2. :lol: The stock throttle assembly really sucks, what is a better replacement? I saw a post about replacing the assembly. What’s good?

3. :applause: The clutch lever & cable is probably the worst thing on the entire bike. IT’S A joke! So I will replace with an AVS. BUT can I replace the cable too.

4. I have not rode it in the dirt and have not felt it on any bumps yet, BUT The front forks feel VERY stiff and unforgiving. YES I do have the clickers set ALL the way to the softest position. What is the deal there dose not appear to be any adjustably in the clickers. Overall the forks rebound is really stiff and slow. And IF I dial the clickers any harder it almost takes the spring out of the fork completely. ANY input????

5. Do most KLX 110 parts fit the Pitster 125X2R?

-Replace your throttle, it's a p.o.s.

-Replace the levers, they suck ass too and were supposed to be shipped with foldable levers! (yes, I got the shitty levers too)

-There are small washers between the front caliper and the mounting surface on the forks, make sure the idiot assembler didn't put the washers on the outside instead of the inside where they belong. This could be why your front wheel is binding.

-Check the linkage on your rear brake and make sure the idiot assembler didn't adjust it too tight.

-change your fork oil to a quality 15w fork oil and see that you're clickers aren't fudged will definitely show improvements! (see oldschools article)

-use loctice and anti-sieze where necessary

-alot of xr/crf50 parts will fit your x2r, I don't know about the kawi klx though...

-I've been wrenching for around 25 years and I don't strip threads etc. (I fix others f'ck ups!) You'd be wise to invest in a quality torqe wrench. I have both needle and clicker type.

Take your forks apart on your x2r... The person who assembled my bike obviously used an air impact and got happy with the damn thing! The damn bolts on the whole bike were like put on by a gorilla! I am still waiting for Gary to do something about my x2r, Nate forwarded him info a while ago but no replies.

One of my clickers wouldn't even turn (right out the box/crate).

I have found a cooked, bent, f'd up rod inside of mine upon teardown/inspection when changing the fork oil. They sure don't waste any parts when they are assembling those bikes whether they are imperfect or not! The assembler for my bike was not competent. I'm still ironing out kinks on mine while it sits. It has less than 5 hours on it and I've been riding my 2k5 pitster and my honda fiddy in the meantime. Not to mention my x2r also has a leaky fork seal and a kick starter problem (probably broken gear tooth). Service your forks right away and hopefully Pitster will do something about them if you find any bad parts and hopefully you won't have to wait without any replies like I am. Bike just sits there on the stand waiting for the parts. It's little stuff but damn it, it's irritating to experience this on a new bike. Same goes for any new vehicle... We had a jeep wrangler once that needed work right off the lot... damn it that's irritating! It happens though... and it doesn't mean it's a shitty bike or shitty jeep etc. It just means some are shipped with issues. Same goes for anything you buy in this world. Quality control can use improving on everything we buy!

I love the way the pitster x2r feels and rode (the whole 2 hours or so I rode it). But if I had to rate it right now against my 2k5 pitster I would say the 2k5 pitster speed mini was assembled a HELL OF ALOT better. I'm racking up some hours on the 2k5 and that bike is a beast! It's not as plush as the x2r but it will do until I wait to get my x2r back out on the dirt.

Do yourself a favor and service your ENTIRE bike now and not later. Grease your taper steering bearings with a quality grease like Lucas Red 'n tacky #2,

grease your swing arm pivot bolt, grease your axles, check everything over. Don't leave any stone unturned! I know once these x2r's are gone over, they are kick ass bikes. Unfortunately I got one with issues that need ironing out.

Yes my honda is known to be bullet proof and rides as expected but that honda damn sure doesn't feel like an x2r. Get a pitster whoever is thinking about buying one, and service it before your first ride and hopefully you have no issues and then go ride your badass bike!

THEY TRULY ARE "THAT GOOD" IF THE ASSEMBLER IS A COMPETENT ONE! (mine wasn't)

NOTHING ELSE FOR THE MONEY COMPARES! Good luck with the support if yours has issues that Nate can't take care of and ends up having to forward it to Gary. I know they guy is busy but he could at least send a reply email that he got info about the issue and is just busy and slow to respond. Nate on the other hand has been fairly prompt at replies and solving any issues he doesn't have to forward to Gary (Pitster). Truth be told, take it for what it's worth.

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I have yet to see a china bike with no issues from the factory.There lack of quality controll is the culprit to these issues.For the price of these bikes you would be a fool not to expect some problems.Like Hoss said they are good bikes just have to iron out the little things to make them good.When I bought my rcm it had blue anadized parts but had a black tripple clamp that was suposed to be blue.Again lack of quality controll to let that slip by.Most are good bikes when these problems are fixed.Take your time and go through the bike with a fine tooth comb and you should be good to go.

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Hey Hoss Thanks, I need to go over all your notes but

can you give me more info on the location of the washers. I tryed adjusting the drag by adding some shim washers. To push the caliper assembly more toward the wheel, I added a .020 shim washer between the original existing one and the mount surface on the fork & caliper. It seams the caliper assembly needs to be shifted toward the wheel. Still not quite right.

Q should the wheel spin completely free with NO drag at all?

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Bill,

If the shims don't help, try loosening the two bolts that hold the caliper to the forks slightly (maybe 1/8 turn) . Put the bike on a stand and spin the wheel and apply the brake. If this helps, remove and locktight the bolts at the new "lower" torque setting

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Hey Hoss Thanks, I need to go over all your notes but

can you give me more info on the location of the washers. I tryed adjusting the drag by adding some shim washers. To push the caliper assembly more toward the wheel, I added a .020 shim washer between the original existing one and the mount surface on the fork & caliper. It seams the caliper assembly needs to be shifted toward the wheel. Still not quite right.

Q should the wheel spin completely free with NO drag at all?

A very light drag is not going to hurt anything on your disc brakes, alot of drag or binding on the otherhand is bad and will quickly overheat the system and likely glaze the rotor and pads and can even necessitate replacing brake fluid. If you have a glaze on your rotor now, you can "break the glaze" with emery cloth. Most auto parts stores even sell little bits/discs that you can put in your drill that are made just for this purpose.

Also, check the adjusting screw on the front brake hand lever and make sure it's not causing the problem. You might find it's either bumping the throttle housing or improperly adjusted.

Here you go:

calipermounting.jpg?t=1172622223

5aca?b=1&m=f&o=0

(in case the photo doesn't show up click here) http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/pitsterpro/photos/view/5aca?b=1&m=f&o=0

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Thanks, I cant get this right this brake assembly is pEE me off. Its so tight its really hard to find the sweet spot where the wheel has the least amount of drag. As it turns out the the .02 shim washers are to thick. So I took them off and am trying to adjust it with just the right amount of torque on the bolts as you guys suggested. The only way I can free up the drag completely is to loosen the aliens to the point they are way to loose. Sitting on the bike and rolling it you can feel the drag and how it is making the bike slow down.

How loose on the bolts can you really get away with?

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Thanks, I cant get this right this brake assembly is pEE me off. Its so tight its really hard to find the sweet spot where the wheel has the least amount of drag. As it turns out the the .02 shim washers are to thick. So I took them off and am trying to adjust it with just the right amount of torque on the bolts as you guys suggested. The only way I can free up the drag completely is to loosen the aliens to the point they are way to loose. Sitting on the bike and rolling it you can feel the drag and how it is making the bike slow down.

How loose on the bolts can you really get away with?

Dude, that's messed up, Contact Gary (Pitster) and have him take care of it. This is really starting to piss me off too! I've had numerous problems and won't keep quiet about it anymore. People need their problems taken care of.

1. Kick starter ratchet mechanism f'd up, probably broken tooth ( have not fixed because it necessitates splitting the case halves ).

2. Mikuni carb junk, problem solved but not flawless like a keihin would be(Kudos Nate)

3. Leaky fork seal and botched up fork internals from factory (they should have tossed the bad parts but they assembled and shipped it anyway)

Fact is, we are customer support for eachother in a sense because we have to help eachother out because there isn't decent quality control for these bikes. They should be gone over before being shipped to the customer! A little more quality control and this crap wouldn't be taking place.

Someone is likely to get seriously injured some day if this poor quality control continues.

Gary (Pitster) ought to be more responsive with taking care of the problems as they arise, Nate is taking up the slack.

I don't think us guys that are helping others out here are getting enough recognition either. That's my .02 on the situation.

Oh and yeah, and they should take down the photos of the foldable levers that are not shipped with the bike because they are shipped with poor quality levers. I feel all of us x2r owners should have recieved foldable levers as in the photos, but ASV would do nicely as a replacement. Fact is, the x2r has the potential to be a bad mutha all the way but there are too many issues to be dealt with! If I weren't mechanically inclined with years of wrenching experience I'd be lost with the b.s. that I've already taken care of that I have not even mentioned. I own 8 bikes currently and I've had more issues with the x2r than any one of them. As a matter of fact my older 2k5 pitster speed mini (similar to sdg but has gpx engine) after having a cutting board chain slider, chain guide, and delrin chain roller made, is very much problem free (minus a cheap peg mount). It was assembled very well and is a blast to ride. I do know these x2r bikes have potential but @#@#$$^%@ the guys that are getting the messed up ones are bound to lose it sooner or later, sorry but join the crowd! Dstardubbin must have pulled his hair out trying to deal with his problems! Big pause...... :lol::applause:

Your bike will be a blast when all the b.s. is over, so will mine. It's just the transition of taking care of it and wating for Gary to do something that's so frustrating. Like I've said before, if Nate can take care of it you're lucky but dealing with pitster can be sloooow. Yeah well ok... but that's not a great way to keep up your awesome reputation as far as I am concerned.

Cough cough... excuse me, I had to let that out, been holding it in for a while. :applause:

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Like I said before all china bikes have issues of some kind.When I got my new ssr I was surprised when I uncrated it.It was supossed to be blue with blue wheels and it was black with one blue wheel and one black wheel &%$#@! I quess quality controll missed that one.My rcm had a ton of issues to many to count all were eventually fixed but was a big hassle to get it fixed.My pitster x2r also had some minor issues mainly carb problems I had a extra carb so that fixed the problem.I also broke the kick starter, gears are broke so I bump start it and if the motor goes to crap I have a extra one for a spare.I have had a few different china bikes and have yet to find one with no issues.If your going to buy a china bike be prepaired to fix some issues.I don't think there is a thing called quality controll in a chinese factory.They can be good bikes once you get all the issues taken care of.Good luck Bill hope you get it fiquered out.

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Like I said before all china bikes have issues of some kind.When I got my new ssr I was surprised when I uncrated it.It was supossed to be blue with blue wheels and it was black with one blue wheel and one black wheel &%$#@! I quess quality controll missed that one.My rcm had a ton of issues to many to count all were eventually fixed but was a big hassle to get it fixed.My pitster x2r also had some minor issues mainly carb problems I had a extra carb so that fixed the problem.I also broke the kick starter, gears are broke so I bump start it and if the motor goes to crap I have a extra one for a spare.I have had a few different china bikes and have yet to find one with no issues.If your going to buy a china bike be prepaired to fix some issues.I don't think there is a thing called quality controll in a chinese factory.They can be good bikes once you get all the issues taken care of.Good luck Bill hope you get it fiquered out.

Damn dude... and I didn't even kick the bike over very hard! That gear crunching skipping sound and jolt I felt really made me cringe!

I don't have the problem on my 2k5 pitster speed mini so I guess I just got one of the x2r's that have the issues. I'd like those issues taken care of because I'm losing too much hair!

Your reply was very well said and yes I completely agree, once the problems are fixed (whenever that will happen) then yes they are going to be bad ass bikes. :applause:

How bout it Gary, we need help already.

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Damn dude... and I didn't even kick the bike over very hard! That gear crunching skipping sound and jolt I felt really made me cringe!

I don't have the problem on my 2k5 pitster speed mini so I guess I just got one of the x2r's that have the issues. I'd like those issues taken care of because I'm losing too much hair!

Your reply was very well said and yes I completely agree, once the problems are fixed (whenever that will happen) then yes they are going to be bad ass bikes. :applause:

How bout it Gary, we need help already.

My 12 year old broke our kick starter gears so that should say somthing about the quality of parts used.It took me almost a year to get all my issues with my RCM fixed what a pain in the ass that was.Keep on them they will eventually help you lot's of calls and emails should get a response.Good luck guys

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My 12 year old broke our kick starter gears so that should say somthing about the quality of parts used.It took me almost a year to get all my issues with my RCM fixed what a pain in the ass that was.Keep on them they will eventually help you lot's of calls and emails should get a response.Good luck guys

Well that's why I'm posting here because Pitster hasn't taken care of the problems and the bike has more dust on it than hours (less than 5 total hours!)

By the way, I saw some pics of an rcm that was sick as all get out. Bad ass bike.

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Dstardubbin must have pulled his hair out trying to deal with his problems! Big pause...... :lol::applause:

:applause: lol

i hope you guys get it all figured out and no one gets hurt due to there problems! Atleast you guys have the mechanical ability to fix your problems(for the most part..forks are a pain). Could you imagine not having the proper tools or ability to go over the bikes like you guys have? I am sure it could leave many new people to pitbikes(and dirtbikes) feeling out in the cold when they realize all this has to be done. Regardless good luck and keep us updated!

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Well that's why I'm posting here because Pitster hasn't taken care of the problems and the bike has more dust on it than hours (less than 5 total hours!)

By the way, I saw some pics of an rcm that was sick as all get out. Bad ass bike.

It is not Pitster's fault that your problems have not been address. It is ours and I do apologize. I told you right before we went to Indy, that we would take care of your issue with the fork internals when we got back into to town. I totally spaced them off and I am the only one to blame not Pitster.

We had talked about your striped gear sometime ago and I though we had worked out a solution. If you do not feel like splitting the cases to make the needed repair, I don't blame you. Instead, we will get you a new motor sent out to swap you for the one with the striped gear as soon as I can get my have on one.

Again, don't blame Pitster, blame us. We dropped the ball, not them.

Next time you feel like your issues are not being address, please drop me a line and say "Hey slacker, what is up with my stuff." Forums are a great avenue to vent, but, a call to us, an email to remind us or to see if we are on the ball or if we just plain forgot, can do wonders.

Again sorry, for the delay on our end. We will take care of you just as we do all of our customers.

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Bill_B, have you contacted the dealer you bought the bike from for support?

If you are not getting results from them, then give Chris a call at Pitster and hopefully he can get you squared away. (866)686-7869 ext 2.

Like I have mentioned before the forums are a great place to vent, but not always the quickest way to get results. Direct contact with your dealer, is always the quikest route.

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Bill,

on the brake dragging issue - I suggested loosening the bolts because sometimes the caliper doesn't align properly to the rotor (pads are not parrallel to the rotors and contact unevenly) because of an uneven mounting surface between the caliper and fork mount. As you know, a few 100ths of an inch can make a difference. Check for signs of wear on the pads to determine where the caliper might need shimming. It may only need a small shim on one of the bolt holes.

Also, the rotor may require shimming between it and the hub.....but if the brakes are better with the caliper mount bolts loose, my guess is that it's the alignment of the caliper to the fork mount....and in turn to the rotor.

I just went thru this problem and found that a thin rubber like material shim (from home depot in the nuts and bolts section) helped with the alignment and allows the caliper to "float" just enough so it doesn't drag.

Also, definately put in good brake fluid and be aware that it sucks moisture like a sponge, so get it in and sealed in the least amount of time possible.

The quality of the stock brake fluid could be less than optimum......I also had a problem with my rear brake dragging bad. When I changed my fluid and bled the system, the problem was solved.

a dragging front brake can really affect the performance of the bike in corners, accelaration, and make it nose heavy in the air.

Good luck with it

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If you gotta take things apart and "shim" it something is seriously wrong, terrible machining and so on, they must not use mirometers when they cut there parts!. The only thing i shim are valves!. Theres no other answer for brakes needing shimed then lousy,no insp procedure standards!

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If you gotta take things apart and "shim" it something is seriously wrong, terrible machining and so on, they must not use mirometers when they cut there parts!. The only thing i shim are valves!. Theres no other answer for brakes needing shimed then lousy,no insp procedure standards!

China= no quality controll :applause: :applause: :lol::cry: You get the point.

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