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Tips on replacing rim, and lacing them up

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My Rear woods wheel has a nasty dent in the rim right next to the rim lock.......both sides :applause: .......and now my damn spokes are loose and the nuts siezed......any tips on redoing the spokes and new rim?

also with aftermarket rim what size you guys running width wise?

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It is real easy to do. Get you new rim (and spokes if your new rim needs them or if you want to replace or up grade your existing ones. If the nipples are frozen on the spokes, you can simply cut them with a large pair of wire cutters or bolt cutters.

1) Loosen all the nipples so the are nearly completely off.

2) Set your new rim on top of the old.

3) Align the spoke holes so the direction of the holes matches.

Edited per reminder from Eddie - Thanks, forgot this - been a while for me! :applause:

4) Remove all the spokes on one side of the old rim (Leave in the hub unless you are replacing), install in the new rim. You may find you can thread the spokes into the new rim as you go. You might find it easier to do this if you can as it makes it a little less confusing

5) Repeat for the other side.

Once done, thread all the nipples up so the same amount of threads are visible on each, sometimes till the the threads are just not visible any more. Then, tighten each nipple one turn. If the spokes are still loose, repeat. Once they no longer can 'rattle', continue the tightening but this time, 1/2 turn until they 'ping' when lightly tapped with the spoke wrench. Do them all exactly the same

Done!

If you need to dish the wheel, tighten the side (spoke eminating from the hub) that needs the wheel pulled towards twice as much as the other until the spokes no longer rattle, then do them both the same until 'ping'. You will want to do teh spoke tightening with the wheel in the bike, as it is easy when you can just spin the wheel and also check your dishing. If during the dishing on the bike you find the wheel is about where it needs to be and he spokes are still real loose, then return to tightening both side equally.

Lastly, it is a good idea to smear some anti-sieze on the spoke threads before you put the nipples on. Also, the first spoke you should turn during the tightening precess should be next to the valve/rim lock hole (a little piece of tape is a good idea too). That way, you will know where you are in the process.

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damn, that sucks DRZDual, you think it was from too low pressure? Or general thrashing?

I have no experience wheel building but I'm sure I'll be in your position soon enough. You're awesome William1! I'll use that for some smaller-scale practice replacing the bent rim on my old mtb wheel so I'll have two sets for it too!

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Bicycle wheels are sooooooo much easier as you can bend the long spokes a little. However, you have to be more careful doing bicycle wheels as the rims are so flexible, you have to go real slow, watching up and down and side to side run out.

Tips:

If the completed wheel has up and down run out, loosen the low (Down) 1/2 turn (eight nipples, four to a side), tighten the high 1/2 turn. Repeat till the issue is resolved.

If the wheel has side to side run out, loosen the two on the 'wobble in' side 1/2 turn, tighten the two on the 'wobble out ' 1/2 turn. Repeat till the issue is resolved.

Take your time. Do not try to straigten by tightening only. If you have loose spokes, snug them all up ('Ping') to get your baseline.

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Hey Eddie, I was referring to a bicycle wheel regarding bending spokes. And you do not bend them rather you flex them slightly, sometimes. Bend is a bad choice of words.

Never bend a motorcycle spoke! And good luck 'flexing' one!

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Thanks for the tips........

its a 36 hole rear right? and what width size can you run, or does it not matter?

and a friendly tip for all.......8 psi is not enough for rocky rutty northeast woods!!

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I just replaced the spokes on a couple of DRZ - S wheels a couple of weeks ago. Here's a link to a great article on the process:

http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/mcn/technical.asp

The article is titled "How-To: Spoke Wheel Building & Truing". Print it out and refer to it as you are building and truing. Very easy to follow and very easy to do.

WGW

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Another tip is to put masking tape across the spokes before removing the nuts to keep them from flopping all over, when you place the hub in the new rim the spokes line up nicely

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