Any Suggestions??? (skidplate removal)

I have the Works Connection skid plate on my 450x and I always take it off for oil changes. I probably don't need to, but it seems to help not make a huge mess. One of the allen head bolts on the rear is frozen and now stripped. Any suggestions on how I can get this out would be greatly appreciated. :lol::applause:

No matter what you'll have to be careful. That aluminum is going to be softer than the countersunk bolts in it. Do you have the plate off yet?

It will be tough but maybe you can get a hack saw blade in between and cut the bolt then drill and remove it?

Or if you have it off you can maybe make a C-clamp contraption that will put pressure on th allen side of the bolt and then twist the aluminum hook

I have the Works Connection skid plate on my 450x and I always take it off for oil changes. I probably don't need to, but it seems to help not make a huge mess. One of the allen head bolts on the rear is frozen and now stripped. Any suggestions on how I can get this out would be greatly appreciated. :lol::applause:

The same thing happen on my wifes 250X with the flatland skide plate. I wrote them and never heard back from them. I guess that's what you call great customer sevice. :lol:

If you don't have to remove it don't, just use a little carb cleaner on it after you change the oil and hose it off.

Same thing happened to me, stripped one out. Was able to get the skid plate off then take out the bolt like in a fashion similar to what arock said. I have a hardware store nearby that has replacement countersunk allen bolts that will work. This time I am not gonna crank them down so tight.

That skid plate is the mother of all armor. I would never use anything else.

If the plate is still on the bike, and this bolt is preventing it from coming off, you might be able to get at the head of the bolt with a dremmel and one of the small cutting wheels. If you have room to do this, you can cut a straight groove in the bolt head and use a flathead screwdriver on it. But I would soak it to death with penetrating oil for several hours before even getting the screwdriver out of the drawer.

If this doesn't work, a left-hand drill bit (available at most every auto parts store) could be drilled into the head. Once it grabs the bolt, it should back it out without having to use an extractor....if you cross all your fingers and toes!

Good luck with it.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate it. I'm going riding in the morning so I just bolted it all back together. I will try again after the trip. Thanks again.

havent had this problem yet myself, but the left-hand drill/screw extractor would probably do the trick for ya.... once you do get it out and the threads cleaned back out (you might want to run a tap through them) try using some never-seize on the bolts when you put them back in. it helps keep the steel bolt from digging in to the aluminum blocks that holt the plate to the frame. i do this on my bike and never had them loosen up when theyre not supposed to and theyve always come out when needed :applause:

Neverseize, what a great product.

When this happened with my Moose skidplate, I used a Dremel tool and cut 2 flats on the allen head bolt, then used a pair of vise grips to remove the bolt.

A pain in the rump, but it worked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By cmckay4
      Anyone having or had problems with the starter not turning over easily on the 450X???
      I have read about this problem on CRF's ONLY and not seen anyone come up with a fix.
      Problem being is that you think there is a problem with the battery, when infact the battery is OK. When you have a good fully charged battery in the bike and press the e-start, it turns over very slowly.
      I have checked the electrical circuit and it seems OK. I am wondering if it might be the starter itself - any suggestions?????
    • By Dust_Devil
      I'll start, if you see the "Fox Sticker" out in the Dez you know you crossed paths with ol' DD.....

    • By JohnnyAirtime

      Guys and Gals...
      Post your links to any of your pictures in this thread....
      (proper placement of pictures is in the "picture" threads)
      Post your links to any of your ride reports in this thread....
      (proper placement of your ride reports is relative to the area you live/ride)
      NO TECHNICAL issues, questions or comments in this thread.
      (it'll be deleted to keep this thread clean and with only the above listed).

      Please follow this format;
      Ride Report: Gorman, Tuesday 4-17
      (by Skoot22)
      Pictures from Ride: Baja 4.14.07
      (by Johnnyairtime)
    • By dakynz
      Guys, because of a member ban the jetting database has been removed. Let's start a new one to get this great information created into a sticky for everyone's benefit. Please stick to the information below.
      Temperature Range:
      Smog (AIS):
      Airbox Modified Top:
      Airbox Modified Sides:
      Backfire Screen:
      Air Filter:
      Pilot Jet:
      Main Jet:
      Needle Clip Position:
      Fuel Screw Type:
      Fuel Screw Setting:
      AP Modified:
      Leak Jet:
      AP Cover:
      Exhaust Type:
      Exhaust Modified:
      Pink Wire Modified:
    • By 2can
      I've studied the Jetting sticky's but still have a number of questions:
      I bought my '06 a couple of years ago and had a smog block-off kit installed and the pilot jet was upsized to a 48 and the air box opened up top only. The bike has appeared to run a little lean at times and got hot on a couple of occasions in elevation and on one other occasion. I'm looking at upping the main jet to either a 165 or 170 to help with the possible lean condition. The bike currently has a 142 main jet in it which I believe is the stock size. It looks like the most widely used Needle Jets are the JD Red, but it doesn't look like they are sold separately, is this correct?
      I was going to also get a 45 pilot to have options for further tuning. My assumption is that every bike is a little different and that where you ride is going to have a lot to do with jetting. We ride mostly, mojave desert, baja, and southern Utah with elevations from sea level to 9,000 feet but the higher elevations are generally for a short period as we generally continue through the peaks and head back down.
      I'm looking to convert from a stock exhaust to possibly an FMF Q4. I want something a little throatier but not overly loud and will provide a balanced flow of intake/exhaust.
      So can I get the JD Red Needle Jet by itself or can I get by using the stock and move the clip and be just as happy. I'm just looking to enhance overall performance of the engine and maintain reliability.