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rear shock oil change & recharge ?

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as the title says, i need to service my rear shock on my '01 E model.

i've never done this. i'm trying to decide wether i should do it myself or send it to a suspension shop.

from what my manual says & from what i've found here searching, it doesn't seem like too difficult of a task.

the biggest concern i have is having the shock charged after i change the oil.

i'm concerned a shop may not want to charge it being that they did not change the oil. kind of a liability thing i guess.

shops are closed on mondays here, so i'll make some calls tomorrow to see if i can have it charged locally.

any input from others who have done this would be appreciated.

what i've gathered so far is:

1) put shock in vise to fill.

2)enough air in bladder for it to keeps it's shape.

3)back off rebound adjuster before removing compression adjuster.

4)manual specifies oil weight, capacity & psi to charge to.

thanks

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remember to bleed it properly before assembly

and keep to the suggested pressure when ya charging in the N2

good luck.

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remember to bleed it properly before assembly

and keep to the suggested pressure when ya charging in the N2

good luck.

any recommendations. i read a post by "Noble", where i believe he said to let it sit for 12 hours after filling with oil.

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Pressurizing the shock is easy, I don't think you'll have a problem with a shop not wanting to do it. All you need is the nitro tank and a guage. You can increase the pressure above the stock PSI, it will have the same effect as adding fork oil, it will make the shock ramp up a little bit more progressively on bigger hits. I've run mine at +30 psi for a couple years with no problems.

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thanks.

i'm probably making too much out of this. i just plan on changing the oil & having someone charge it. i wasn't going to get involved in a complete teardown.

seems like i just need to be sure to add correct amount of oil & be sure to bleed all air out before bringing it to get re-charged.

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Yea, it is not too hard. I don't remember giving the 12 hr wait advise but it is not a bad idea. Some people like to tap lightly on the body to help move the bubbles up.

I like to remove the compression valve and the blatter. Fill thru the hole where the valve goes. Just try to get all the air out is the main thing. Suzuki says 2.5 weight oil but I know people use 5 wt too. Stay with the stock pressure. More pressure just increases the spring rate and very slightly, but does not change the compression ratio as more oil in the forks does. The main purpose of the pressure is to stop bubbles from forming in the oil and to accomodate the volume of the shaft as the shock compresses. I have paid anywheree from free to $25 for a N charge.

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Stay with the stock pressure. More pressure just increases the spring rate and very slightly, but does not change the compression ratio as more oil in the forks does. The main purpose of the pressure is to stop bubbles from forming in the oil and to accomodate the volume of the shaft as the shock compresses.

Noble, I've been told by 2 different "pro" suspension tuners to adjust the shock nitro pressure to affect the travel at the end of the stroke. They said it was just like adding oil to the forks. (they may have been trying to explain it as simply as possible?) Maybe I didn't explain it correctly, and like you said, it is a very slight change.

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Yea, it is not too hard. I don't remember giving the 12 hr wait advise but it is not a bad idea. Some people like to tap lightly on the body to help move the bubbles up.

I like to remove the compression valve and the blatter. Fill thru the hole where the valve goes. Just try to get all the air out is the main thing. Suzuki says 2.5 weight oil but I know people use 5 wt too. Stay with the stock pressure. More pressure just increases the spring rate and very slightly, but does not change the compression ratio as more oil in the forks does. The main purpose of the pressure is to stop bubbles from forming in the oil and to accomodate the volume of the shaft as the shock compresses. I have paid anywheree from free to $25 for a N charge.

thanks

i searched "shock oil" and found a post with the 12 hour wait time. it did in fact also mention tapping the body lightly. thought it was you.

i was afraid to take the first step & bleed the gas. but i'll give it a shot.

worse case scenario, W.E.R. is about 45 miles from here:busted:

being i have never done this, getting all the air out isn't really clear to me.

i'm guessing it will become more apparant as i fill it with oil.

not really sure what the bladder looks like either. and if it comes out the top hole, or if the whole shock needs to come apart to remove it.

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The blatter is in the side lump where the pressure valve is. With the pressure gone, you can push the cap down a little to expose a retainer ring. Remove the retainer ring then pull the cap and blatter out.

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I ran into an issue at a local shop trying to get a recharge.The guy wanted to know "who" reassembled it. I think he was worried that if it was assembled wrong it could lanch while being recharged.

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I ran into an issue at a local shop trying to get a recharge.The guy wanted to know "who" reassembled it. I think he was worried that if it was assembled wrong it could lanch while being recharged.

that's exactlly what i was afraid of.

did you completely tear it down, or did you just do an oil change?

i was just planning on an oil change.

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