Ignition 1971 SL100

I have a 1971 SL100 that I am converting into a Flattrack looking pit bike. I am building this with my grandson to ride around at his MX races, ourdoor swap meets & playing in the back yard.

The motor currently has the stock stator & flywheel with points. This is a battery ignition with the extra windings for lights. Since I don't have lights on the bike anymore I dont need a battery ignition. What are the options for ignition for this motor to eliminate the battery.

I am trying to teach my grandson how to build a bike up on his budget (which is very limited) getting parts from swap meets & ebay.

Since the bike is now a runner we have plenty of time to search for parts. The tank is stock, the seat is an old XR750 seat I had that was cracked & had holes in it. We patched it up with fiberglass & painted it with Dupli-Color metallic paint. The seat pad base is cut from an old snowmobile gas tank with the foam & vinal cut & formed from the snowmobile seat. I have a SuperTrapp muffler to replace the stock muffler. The air filter is a XR750 K&N.

Gene

Walled Lake Mi

I have a 1971 SL100 that I am converting into a Flattrack looking pit bike. I am building this with my grandson to ride around at his MX races, ourdoor swap meets & playing in the back yard.

The motor currently has the stock stator & flywheel with points. This is a battery ignition with the extra windings for lights. Since I don't have lights on the bike anymore I dont need a battery ignition. What are the options for ignition for this motor to eliminate the battery.

I am trying to teach my grandson how to build a bike up on his budget (which is very limited) getting parts from swap meets & ebay.

Since the bike is now a runner we have plenty of time to search for parts. The tank is stock, the seat is an old XR750 seat I had that was cracked & had holes in it. We patched it up with fiberglass & painted it with Dupli-Color metallic paint. The seat pad base is cut from an old snowmobile gas tank with the foam & vinal cut & formed from the snowmobile seat. I have a SuperTrapp muffler to replace the stock muffler. The air filter is a XR750 K&N.

Gene

Walled Lake Mi

Can't help you with what you need, but it's interesting to read what you're up too. I'm picking up an 82 XR100 today for my son and I to work on and learn from. It's very dirty but looks to be all original and in mostly good shape. I'm wanting to do a CDI swap too, am I correct in assuming then that the stator and flywheel are different with a points setup? (don't know any techie stuff) Keep us posted on what you're doing.

THanks

MikeB

I have a 1973 XL100, which is the same as the SL100.

I too and currently trying to fix it up to look more like a flattracker, but remaining a street bike. I would like to see photos of what you are using for the seat/fenders.

Watch out on ripping out the electrics. Some said the SL100 needs a battery to run. Mine has a battery on it. I can try disconnecting it and see if it starts without it.

I have a smaller taillight for it and I am looking for plastic fenders. These fenders will get stored away where they won't get creased if the bike gets dropped.

Mine is using an inner basket, plates, and springs from an XR200R. Also, I used a carb rebuild kit.

Please share any tips you find.

Photo0002-1.jpg

I have the battery connected.

If you tell me how to insert a picture I can add it

I have all the fenders, lights, gages etc from the bike. I plan to sell them at the next swap meet. If interested let me know.

Gene

I am trying this. It seems to work. I will post more photos when I take better pictures

HondaFlattracker.jpg

I like the seat /tail section combo!

I might be interested in the speedo/cable. I'm trying to see how badly damaged my speedo unit may be. No cable at this time.

Have you guys found any kind of information on parts cross referencing? I'm trying to find out if I can use newer year accessory parts, like footpegs, perches, levers, etc.

The XR100 changed in 85 or 86 and a lot of parts are different after that, but can't find out if they switched things like footpegs (or how they mount).

And ideas?

thanks! :applause:

I used to have a few Honda XR/XL 75 & 80's. I found that most of the time if the frame was the same the other parts were the same. You can google search the year & find out what changes were made. Mostly they were color changes. On the 75 motors there were major changes in 75 or 76 that changes most of the motor parts. You can also look at the parts list & cross the part numbers.

Gene

I got rid of the battery and replaced it with a large capacitor. 22,000mfd I think. It was a 50 volt cap, about 1.25 inch dia and 5 inches long. I put a full bridge rectifier from a electronis store and it ran fine. I may still have the wiring harness and cap somewhere, will go look. The bat-pack battery eliminator will not work unless you put in a voltage regulator since the sl100 puts out about 30 volts. I also put in a resistor in the line I think it was a 400 ohm but I will go look. So the answer is yes you can dump the battery.

Hi Guys, check out my no battery conversion for the SL/XL's. I have some details on an unfinished website so be kind. waynescyclegarage.mysite.com

The idea for me was to eliminate stuff not adding capacitors and resistors etc. My bike , Dwight Rudders bike and one more are running this conversion, no regulator needed unless you want basic enduro lights, if you need lights just add 12V regulator, we are using the "Moose" 12v regulator ( about $15 ) and 12 V lights. they are bright and I have yet to blow a bulb. Dwight rode his XL 100 at Combs and got a gold and #1 in the MX. This works and so far is the best way I can come up with to get rid of the nasty battery, fuse, rectifier and switches etc. This is not for a street legal bike but has a pretty good head and tail light. good luck, wayne

Hi TT , I have some details for my no battery conversion on an unfinished web site at waynescyclegarage.mysite.com The idea was for me to get rid of stuff, battery, rectifier,fuses switches etc. Don't waste your time on the Batt Pac battery eliminator, it is just a capacitor which just shorts your AC to ground. At best it may not harm your system. My bike, Dwight Rudders and Greg Holders SL/XL are using my set up, Dwight got a gold at Combs over the weekend and #1 in the MX. This works. If you need basic enduro lights just add a "Moose12V regulator and 12v lights). This is the only practical way I have found to get rid of the battery and have a very simple reliable system. Check it out, it's not as complex as it may seem at first. good luck, wayne

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