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Dirtbike Wheel Chocks for use on a flat wooden bed utility trailer?

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ridermannow

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I have just a standard flat wooden bed utility trailer with a fold up metal mesh gate. I think it's 2"x8" pressure treated lumber that makes up the trailer bed. I have used the trailer for towing ATV, Lawnmower and all sorts of misc. stuff. Now I want to take around my new dirtbike (Husky TE250) and possibly a friends dirtbike. So I am looking for the best way to keep the bikes secure on the trailer and was told I would need tire chocks.. I am just wondering what exactly to look for and what works best? Do I permantely attached these chocks to the wooden trailer bed or do they make them removable so I can take them off when using the trailer for something else besides dirtbikes?

BTW.. I am going to tow the trailer with a 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6.

Thanks all!

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DuelRule

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I have just a standard flat wooden bed utility trailer with a fold up metal mesh gate. I think it's 2"x8" pressure treated lumber that makes up the trailer bed. I have used the trailer for towing ATV, Lawnmower and all sorts of misc. stuff. Now I want to take around my new dirtbike (Husky TE250) and possibly a friends dirtbike. So I am looking for the best way to keep the bikes secure on the trailer and was told I would need tire chocks.. I am just wondering what exactly to look for and what works best? Do I permantely attached these chocks to the wooden trailer bed or do they make them removable so I can take them off when using the trailer for something else besides dirtbikes?

BTW.. I am going to tow the trailer with a 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6.

Thanks all!

Just get yourself some of these! ----> http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a93/DuelRule/Chock.jpg

They are removable in seconds!

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shotlady

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Sure why not?

I have a dirt chock and heavy street bike chock on mine.:applause:

the street chock is removeable. hey why not and i went cheap too. i paid about 25-30 each which means you'd prolly pay with out a hook up about 60 each. and you know these can get very pricey! & yes my trailer is pink... you should see my truck:smirk:

DSCF1804.jpg

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shotlady

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I got it from Harbor frieght. it goes for about 700.00.

it comes in boxes.?

you have to put it together. it doesn't come with a trailer jack or the wood or the chocks or 0 rings. check around for a used one. they are 410 LBS and haul 1500. it'll nickel and dime you to death. i woulda got one another way ifn i knew all the things i'd have to do to it. new i will have to put diamond plate on the ramp for loading.:applause:

it was all black, but i painted parts pink so the guys won't want to borrow it:p

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LeadDoggy

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If you have a front rail on the trailer, just place the front wheel against that.

If not, build your own chock.

Get a piece of 1/2" thk plywood about 14" square and three 2X4s the same lenght. Attach two of the 2X4s parrallel to one another with a gap in the middle the width of the tire. Now attach the last 2X4s on top of the first two 2X4s in line with the edge of the plywood. Use screws. Now place the unit onto the trailer and attach with screws plywood to plywood.

Worked for me.....

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Grand Master

coffee

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I have just a standard flat wooden bed utility trailer...

Went the Harbor Freight $200 utility trailer route. Bought $20 cheapie chocks with no side support and promptly crushed them - they went back and got the 3 1/2" Pingel (they come in 3 1/2" for dirt bikes and 5" for street bikes).

As noted they are removable. It takes a minute to spin off the long bolt with your fingers though. They work great.

The real issue is how are you going to attach your ties to, how wide is your trailer, how many bikes, etc. Here is a pic what I wound up with on a 4' wide trailer.

DSC_1639Small.jpg

As you can see there are 2 eye bolts that may prevent using it for hauling some things. Put some in the back too which get in the way.

Doing it all over again would not have put the eye bolts in the back part, and would just use a circular saw to cut slots in the wooden floor - or at least attempt that method. If that did not work new wood is cheap to replace. maybe 4" wide by 12" long slot to rest the front wheel in. The Pingels are in the $60 range (each), and the other solution Valerie presented would be ideal in the bed of a uhaul / pickup and may be just the thing for this situation - have not tried them.

You don't need much for the back of the bike - but if the road is bad enough an inexpensive tie strap - the 4 for $10 at the hardware store would be a good idea.

Having read stories and seeing pictures these were my choice also:

DSC_1644Small.jpg

They don't unhook from either end accidentally going down bumpy roads. The biggest downside to using a trailer is the suspension of the trailer is not as good as a pickup or van.

I have had other bikes that need something (piece of 2x4) between the tire and underside of the front fender so the bike would not bounce around too much - while that mostly depends on the angle of where your tie straps it also depends on the bike. The farther out the tie points are the better. My 310lb dual sport needed that chunk of 2x4 but my TE250 does not.

You have gotten some great information from others in this thread.

Went to an OHV park with camera, tape measure, and notepad to get dimensions and feed back from others regarding trailers. My placement points are pretty much what most 2/3 rail MC trailers use.

.

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damone

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They have these chaulks that you would need to cut a whole approx 5"x12" in the deck then they sit down in the hole. It is a metal box and the lid will sit flush with the deck and when you roll your wheel over it it will puch the lid down and create a stop for the bike. Pretty cool. Maybe someone has a link

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Chickenhauler

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They have these chaulks that you would need to cut a whole approx 5"x12" in the deck then they sit down in the hole. It is a metal box and the lid will sit flush with the deck and when you roll your wheel over it it will puch the lid down and create a stop for the bike. Pretty cool. Maybe someone has a link

Similar to these????

http://www.kmtparts.com/catalog.asp?prodid=509870&showprevnext=1

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coffee

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I bought the $229 Harbor freight special. Built some custom chocks for about $ 25 each and they are way better than anything you could buy.

trailer007xxp3.jpg

trailer004xux0.jpg

trailer008xkf2.jpg

450x040ih0.jpg

You do good work AS - hard to believe that is the same trailer that I have in my pic...

.

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ridermannow

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my local trailer dealer just got in on a trade a 1996 3-rail trailer, painted black. It needs a ramp and some of the lights are broken. It also has a little rust on it. The dealer will sell it to me for $300 as is. Do you think this is a good deal?

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LeadDoggy

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I bought the $229 Harbor freight special. Built some custom chocks for about $ 25 each and they are way better than anything you could buy.

AgentSmith,

When i saw your trailer photos, said to myself, I've seen that trailer before. We talked one day many moons ago at the staging area in Rowher Flats. Once again, great job on the custom trailer. I'm presently using your trailer tong idea to stiffen mine......

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damone

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my local trailer dealer just got in on a trade a 1996 3-rail trailer, painted black. It needs a ramp and some of the lights are broken. It also has a little rust on it. The dealer will sell it to me for $300 as is. Do you think this is a good deal?

Even if all the lights need replacibg ($35) and new tires are needed ($100) and new paint (<$50) it would be a good deal.

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ridermannow

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I don't see how that could be a good deal when these 3-rail trailers cost $900 brand new. This trailer is 11 years old!

Even if all the lights need replacibg ($35) and new tires are needed ($100) and new paint (<$50) it would be a good deal.
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