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ap mod help!!!

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i have come inside from the garage kinda mad because i cant seem to figure out how to pull the carb out like in redbeards diagram to operate on it. I removed the subframe and the exhaust and the carb is pulled free from the intake and airbox boot. i am frustrated as to where to pull it out so i can remove the throttle drum cover easily. you cant from the top because the engine mount is in the way. you cant flip it over unless you take of the 1000 hoses off that are attatched to it. can somebody explain how they managed to get to the throttle drum cover please.

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I have been trying to follow this diagram from the start but the 250's have a frame mount in the way of the carb, even if i take this off i doubt the carb will come strait out. have you done the mod racer24?

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yes however on a kxf....but the frame is similiar to the 250R's frame....did u remove the subframe, tank, and loosen the 2 clamp's....if possible can u provide a pic of the frame that is in ur way

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i can easily have a pic on here in the morning, how come it was so easy for redbeard to remove his carb?? he didnt remove his hotstart.

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If you have the subframe and everything up, just remove the rear shock and work at it from the back. Thats how I did mine on my 250X.

how come it was so easy for redbeard to remove his carb?? he didnt remove his hotstart.

That's a 450 they show

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If you have the subframe and everything up, just remove the rear shock and work at it from the back. Thats how I did mine on my 250X.

That's a 450 they show

Yes! remove the shock!

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ok, the cover is off and i noticed the ap set screw is already touching the ap link lever-no gap-and when i hold it at WOT the link lever follows the screw so i dont see why there is need for an o-ring. here is a pic of the link lever and set screw. its kinda dirty so its hard to see. Am i missing something here?

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l220/chrispy555/bikescarbmod023.jpg

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If you snap the trottle hard open when there is fuel in the AP you will see that it doesn't follow it but rather lags behind. I'm sure that a much stiffer spring would also do the trick but why bother when you can do it with a 2 cent piece of wire.

Also, I can't believe your took your bike apart with all that dirt on it. There is a saying that applies here: cleanliness is next to godliness.

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He's from Nova Scotia, his garden hose was problably left out in the cold, and is frozen solid!!:applause:

Yeah, not good to work on dirty bikes unless your stuck out on the trail.

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lol, yeah its cold here. i actually took the pressure washer to the bike the day before when the temp rose just above 0. and there was still dirt on it. i knew after i took the picture somebody would rip me up about the dirt.haha. well i finished the mod and i definatley notice a difference. i also checked my valves while i was at it, the right intake is perfect, but the left is closed up tight. the exhaust are at about .008mm too. the bike starts first kick and runs great. i cant see why the valzes are out of spec. they are new oem valves, springs and the seats were cut. i just bought the bike and the guy b4 me only had 3 races on the new valves and springs.

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jeez, it wasnt that dirty, just the carb was dirty since its hard to reach with the hose, the valve cover was very clean.i wiped off the whole engine and frame b4 i checked the valves, its not like i was scraping dirt in it i wouldnt go near the valves if the bike was drippin in mud or dirt.

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jeez, it wasnt that dirty, just the carb was dirty since its hard to reach with the hose, the valve cover was very clean.i wiped off the whole engine and frame b4 i checked the valves, its not like i was scraping dirt in it i wouldnt go near the valves if the bike was drippin in mud or dirt.

Ya, the carb is in a place where you can't clean to easy.

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