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2006 TE250--No electric start

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Hey everyone,

Today started off with high expectations as my wife and I installed the newly lowered and re-valved forks and shock from Les at LT Racing. Once we got everything set up and changed into riding clothes, I went to warm up the bike and when I pushed the electric start, I got nothing. No turnover whatsoever. The lights and horn work. We checked the 15 amp fuses and other connections, the battery connections, the starter cable, and the spark plug (took out and cleaned). One other thing I noticed was the throttle seemed to have a lot of play in it, which hadn't been touched to my knowledge. I tightened it up a bit.

I finally got the bike started with the kick start and we went for a ride. I last had the bike running about 5 weeks ago when I changed the oil. I have kept it hooked up with a battery tender whenever it is not used. I also had the tank filled up with Sta-Bil added. The bike has about 350 miles on it and 16:45 hrs. We checked the valves at about 3 hours and swapped one shim.

Before I have to bring it in for service, any thoughts on what I can check? I suck at electrical work, but I am thinking the starter motor, relay, or a loose wire connection.

Thanks,

Trent

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Did you pull in the clutch lever?

Is it a stock clutch lever or after market?

.

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I seriously doubt it is anything major. Still sounds like a clutch wire type problem - as in simple.

You could do things like:

-take seat off, put volt meter on battery and measure that

-pull in clutch & press starter while still measuring the battery voltage and see if it changes - it probably won't.

You say the lights work - assume you meant turn signals. My headlight and tail lights do not operate while bike is off.

The book says there are 4 wires going to the fuse area - 3 red and a "green / orange". On my bike the "green / orange" is a "Yellow / Red" wire - it is the one that is not red at least. According to the schematic that non-red wire is grounded to operate the starter.

Put a voltmeter on that non-red wire and measure to ground - it should read the battery voltage. Pull in the clutch and press the starter and that voltage should drop to 0 and the started motor should spin - but it probably won't which would indicate something is wrong in that wire section.

Just jumpering that non-red wire to ground should get the starter motor going.

I really hate to post anything that I am not sure of - just did all that on my bike and that is the way it works. But 3 things need to happen - clutch in so the switch on the clutch is closed, the red "on / off" button needs to be in the proper position, and the estart button needs to be pressed.

Jumpering that non-red wire to ground bypasses all the switches and the starter motor should start to spin.

.

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I just checked the voltage (with bike off and battery tender disconnected) and it is 13.42V. Anything else? Thanks.

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I still say clutch switch. Check it or better yet remove it and plug the remaining wires into each other - for good.

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You guys are awesome!

One of the clutch switch wires broke off of the soldering in the housing. I used a velcro strap and attached the wire to the post and it started right up. :applause:

Can I really just twist the two wires in the housing together and be done with it? I just want to make sure before I cut the other wire.

Thanks again, Trent

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Can I really just twist the two wires in the housing together and be done with it?

Only if you want to.

There are 3 switches in series - if they are all closed the starter motor runs. Clutch switch, on/off switch, and estart. Shorting the clutch switch wires together is fine electrically.

But that means the bike could move in gear when the estart is pressed - its a safety thing.... your call. No big deal either way.

.

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how was the suspension lowering. Did you have any problems with tavel loss? How much did you lower it. I had my suspension done by Les but I did not lower it but cosidering that option.

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I will run the two options (reattaching the wire to the post or shorting them together) it past my wife since it is her bike, but I am leaning towards shorting them as I always start a bike with the clutch in anyways and usually try for neutral as well.

As for the lowering, Les recommended a max of 1.25" front and rear without having to go with custom-made springs to accomodate a larger drop. He did re-valve both ends and changed the springs in the forks to match my wife's lighter weight. It still seems to have plenty of travel, but I think it will make a great deal of difference to my wife's confidence level as she is able to get more of her foot down. She is still unable to flat-foot it, and she is 5'7" with a 31-32" inseam. I know it's lower though because we now have to lift the bike a bit to get it on the Rhino Stand whereas before it had plenty of clearance.

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