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Just bought a DR 650 and was wondering if a guy should use the Suzuki brand 4-cycle (10-40) motor oil, or does the brand even matter? I don't care about the cost so much, its just that the Suzi oil isn't as readily available as other brands. I bought a new '06. Should I change the oil right away, since it is an '06 the oil has aged, right??? Does this matter, aged but not actually used? Thanks in advance!

Dave

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The 600 mile change is more important. Unless it has been stored in a location that saw big temp swings causing condensation to form in the crank case I'd run it to the 1st service.

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You can get Rotella Synthetic oil (in blue bottle) at Wal-mart. I've heard very good reports about this oil, and it's economical for a full synthetic.

I've got a temp. strip on the DR and it runs very hot, much hotter than my liquid cooled SV. I've been told that the synthetic protects better than the regular dino. oil in hotter running engines.

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Thanks guys,

Will do.......I have heard about the pipes on these bikes glowing from red to white, as seen in the dark, so the synthetic may be best if it protects better than dyno, after break in. Any other ways to cool this thing down?

Thanks- Dave

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I'm using motul 5100 10w50, the shop I bought the bike new from, told me it is recommended by suzuki.

http://www.motul.fr/uk/produits/index.html

I did my first change at 400km, it was quite metallic looking, 2nd change at 1000km, quite clean. I believe the first change is the most important, and the bike shop had no probs with me changing it early. It now has 1600km on the clock, with no problems so far.

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Should I change the oil right away, since it is an '06 the oil has aged, right??? Does this matter, aged but not actually used? Thanks in advance!

well, oil is kinda like a religion, so pick whatever you have faith in and then pray. here's what i do:

1) change the oil after the first couple hundred miles. a new engine has lots more metal bits floating around as parts seat in, and it only costs $5 or so to change the oil.

2) change it again at 600 or so miles, and then about every 1000 after that. i don't mind going a little longer if i'm on a trip, even out to 2 or 3k. long trips are pretty easy on an engine for me, since it stays warm.

3) i've been using delo 15-50, but i'll use most any decent oil. i use delo because dale lineaweaver (a pretty respectable flattrack and supermoto engine builder) says it works and he hasn't found anything to protect better. i figure he spends alot of time looking at what wears on a motorcycle engine.

as far as the header glowing, that would be because the jetting is so lean out of the box. if you drill out the cap covering the fuel screw and open it up another half turn or so, and shim the needle to raise it (and richen the mixture) slightly, then the engine should run at a reasonable temperature.

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Thanks guys,

Will do.......I have heard about the pipes on these bikes glowing from red to white, as seen in the dark,

Thanks- Dave

the pipe glows because it's relatively thin and single walled.... it's not a reliable way to guage engine operating temp... gsxrs do it, tl1000s do it, hayabusas do it... almost anything in suzukis lineup with single wall stainless pipes glow... and there aint a damn thing u can do about it... nor should you worry about it

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Hello Dave,

I run Amsoil 10W-40 Motorcycle oil in mine year round, don't worry about the miles but change it in December & June; of course this was after break in.

By the by I'm in South Central Mt. where abouts are you located?

Gary

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Thanks all for the input!

I have read much about these DR's being jetted very lean at the factory, why???? Is it emission related?

And to Gary, my hometown is Billings, but have lived in Missoula for three years now...so how about you, southcentral is my old stompin ground! Is that Amsoil a synthetic, or dyno?

Dave

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the pipe glows because it's relatively thin and single walled.... it's not a reliable way to guage engine operating temp... gsxrs do it, tl1000s do it, hayabusas do it... almost anything in suzukis lineup with single wall stainless pipes glow... and there aint a damn thing u can do about it... nor should you worry about it

you are correct about single wall thin pipe.... however glowing pipe does indicate a lean condition at idle. My '06 YZ250F with titanium header would glow if you left it idle for more than about 20 seconds. some tweakage of the fuel screw and it was much better. took about 2 minutes of idle after motor was warm. these bikes (DRs) are jetted quite lean from factory as velosapiens said.

I also agree as to pick a brand and stick with it. and once you go to a full synthetic its a bad idea to change back.

one more thing if you use the clutch (by use i mean slip it in corners in dirt ect...) dont be surprised to find metalic clutch material floating in the oil. this is normal.

-Chris

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Everybody has strong opinions on brand of oil. I'm sure so will you. But don't run synthetic until the engine has at least a few thousand miles on it or the rings will not seat well and your fuel economy will reflect it. Synthetics offer higher thermo resistance to breakdown and therefore work well with air cooled bikes. The DR like most or all Suzukis run very lean at the lower rpms but this one seems to run rich at wot. Your pipes shouldn't glow if you want your valves to last.

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Hello Dave,

The Amsoil I'm using is their 10W-40 synthetic motorcycle oil.

I've been around the Billings for a while. They are starting a club here "Big Sky Thumpers", I'll get you some info. if you would like. Have a fellow in Cody that wants to do Yellowstone Park, I'd rather go up Daisy Pass Rd. (outside of Cooke City) and do some exploring there; though It's possible to do the park, Beartooth Highway, Chief Joseph, & maybe the Morrison in a few days. Any intrest or ideas? PM me.

Gary

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I run the rotella 5-40 synthetic in all my bikes. Cheap (wallyworld) and seems to work good to me. I used to run the red cap mobil one but they changed the formulation a couple of years ago so i switched to the rotella. No problems so far. Bucky

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+1 on the Rotella 5-40w synthetic. It gets pretty warm here in the desert and the Rorella seems to work very well.

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As long as it has the specs suggested by Suzuki, any oil will work fine, dino or synthetic. There just isn't any real difference. Pay more if it makes you feel better. It is much more important to change it (and the filter) at regular intervals (3K miles or less). When people say "no problems yet" with their recommendation, ignore it because it is meaningless. I'm not dead yet, what does that mean? Does it mean I'll never die and live forever or does it just mean that I'm alive now and haven't died yet? If someone ever did have a specific oil-related issue, we would have all heard about it and that would then be something to consider. Just get a good 10w-40 in the proper service grade and you'll be fine.

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I used petroleum based oil for break in so my rings would seat. Then sense I couldn't find amasoil I use Mobil 1 MX4T motorcycle 10w40. Noticed my bike shifts much better with M1. I don't like using different oils for testing, so I will stick with the M1 motorcycle. After all that is what it was manufactured for.

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The clutch works much better with synthetic than petroleum in my case. No slippage either way. Much smoother shifts.

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