Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Replacing TE-510 clutch - any Gotchas?

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm going to be replacing the clutch on my '06 TE-510 this weekend if I get the time.

Just wanted to know if there are any gotchas or little tricks that I should know before I dive in?

Thanks,

Daryl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Husky clutches are quite straight forward to do are you just planing to renew the plates?

:eek: Lean the bike over or ly down no need to drain the oil, Remove the clutch cover undo six Alen Bolts swap plates and tighten back up,:applause:

If its your first attempt note the order the plates are in:ride:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks!

I've ordered a kit that I believe contains both the fiber disks and steel plates. Should be arriving today or tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:applause: Sorry I've just remembered one thing to be careful of !

Do not pull the clutch lever on the Handlebar when the clutch is disassembled, some people have trashed the slave cylinder and they are very expensive:eek:

Have a piece of wood between the lever and the H/bar and hold it with tape so you or a mate (Ex Mate) can't pull it accidently!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remove the rear brake pedal and let it hang the rest is even easier

Get a good torque wrench to re-assemble. The pressure plate bolts take very little torque as do the cover plate bolts. Do not over tighten.

It's about a 10 minute job to do if you go slow.

I had my 10 year old son do one of these a few years back while I drank a beer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The job went very easily and would not have taken more than 10 minutes if I hadn't been going slow to explain all the steps to my 5 year old daughter.

Very straightforward.

This is the 2nd clutch in this bike. The first one was replaced by the first owner who had it go out due to the master cylinder reservoir being overfilled from Husky. The fluid expanded when hot and caused the clutch to start slipping and he burn it up. I don't know how much of the 2nd clutch's life was reduced before they found the cause of the 1st clutch failure.

I'm generally not too hard on clutches and I know that I haven't been slipping the clutch in technical sections any more than I did with my 2000 DRZ-400 and it was on the original clutch when I sold it just before Christmas.

In any case, it was a very easy and quick job and one that no one should hesitate to attemp on their own I think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 06 510SMR, it has about 2500 miles on it and the clutch is starting to slip, I found that rather short life for the clutch, after reading this thread today I think I've found the reason ,overflowing generousity in clutch fluid from my Husky dealer!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have a 06 510SMR, it has about 2500 miles on it and the clutch is starting to slip, I found that rather short life for the clutch, after reading this thread today I think I've found the reason ,overflowing generousity in clutch fluid from my Husky dealer!

As the clutch wears the fluid level rises in the master cyl' if you have too much in it has the effect of the lever still being pulled in slightly.

So you may find you need to bleed it to lower the level a bit.

:)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is excellent info. I'll be checking mine, as I have noticed some slight slippage as of late too.

thanks.

paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...