Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Why Nitrogen?

Recommended Posts

well, my dealer screwed me over by telling me they had shock seals and bushings in stock, so i pulled apart my shock and the dealer doesnt have them. i leaving to go riding later today, so im really pissed. im just going to throw it back together with the old bushing and seal.

im going riding for 2 days in the dunes and as soon as i get back im gonna pull the shock apart again and install the seals/bushings when they get here.

so, i dont really wanna pay to have my nitrogen charged so i can ride for a weekend. then pay it again when i get the parts.

SO, do you think i could just put like 120psi of air in the shock for this weekend? or does it have to be nitrogen?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when I was 16 I did the same as you are going to do. you will have a problem to fill the reservoir with 120psi but IMO for one weekend it's ok. I was able to ride at that time :applause: If anyone out there had bad experience, please tell

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, the manual says i need 150psi of nitrogen, and i think i can squeeze 120 out of my compressor.

yea, i'd like another opinion too, im gonna throw it together an an hour or so then im leaving.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem is air is not as stable as pure nitrogen.

Air will expand when heated... rupture the bladder or possibly even toss you.

I don't think any of the "top" tuners on this forum will give you the ok.

I have seen and heard about too many injuries due to a rear shock malfunction. I would not ride without a properly built rear shock.

If you puth the shock back together... pay the $20 and have it charged with nitrogen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as long as you dont have moisture in the air, it will not expand any faster than N2.You can go as low as 120psi but most say 145psi.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SO, do you think i could just put like 120psi of air in the shock for this weekend? or does it have to be nitrogen?
Nitrogen only.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you bleed the air out of the oil when you refill the shock you will have no problem using 120 psi of air rather than 150 psi of nitrogen.

The performance might not be quite the same but there will be no harmful effects from the air. I have done this in a pinch. If the pressure is too low the seal might leak .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you use a bicyclepump you can get higher in the psi dept than with yr compressor. I went to 120psi easy and you can watch the gauge to be exact.

Air is good to go. Forget all the crap they say about the n2. Air is 80% n2, so what cld the 20% do for harm, but be sure it is dry air, so via the airpump it is ok.

Later you can fill it with N2, but i never did it and the shock is working flawless :applause:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

USE THE SEARCH ENGINE! This topic has been discussed at great length...

Detailed discussion and lots of good info here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403707&highlight=nitrogen+air

...and some supplemental info here:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4062386#post4062386

Be SURE the air you use "in a pinch" is as dry as you can get - DO NOT use air from a compressor that has seen lots of hot-cold-hot cycles with any pressure in it at all.

I prefer to use a mountina bike airshock pump if your shock absorber has a Schreader valve, or your needle has a Schraeder valve adapter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remember, that when using a standard shrader type air chuck on such small chamber such as your resivoir with a realitivly high pressure(120) ,you WILL lose about 25psi when you remove the air chuck ,no matter how fast you try to do it.

So now you down to say 95psi os so.

Maybe a bike suspension pump is better to try. :applause:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have often wondered about getting the exact pressure. You will always loose some air or nitrogen when removing the valve and what about checking the pressure afterwards? You will be loosing some again... What is the most accurate way of pumping nitrogen into the shock? I work with nitrogen everyday but I never need to pump something to an exact pressure...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The shock does need to be a exact pressure, the manual will say 142psi and some go as high as 175psi, so its not a exact number.If you set your guage to 160psi you wont go far wrong IMO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I have often wondered about getting the exact pressure. You will always loose some air or nitrogen when removing the valve and what about checking the pressure afterwards? You will be loosing some again... What is the most accurate way of pumping nitrogen into the shock? I work with nitrogen everyday but I never need to pump something to an exact pressure...

I ended up purchasing the Race Tech guage...

TSNG02CUTOUTsmall.jpg

With it you can close the schrader valve before removing the guage. So you don't loose any pressure.... its pretty cool but I have never used anything else to compare it against.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used my compressed air many time at about 90 lbs. After a 1 hour heavy ride I used my infrared thermometer and my shock was cooler than my other buddies with a YZ and 50 degrees cooler than my buddy on a no link 2001 KTM 400.

I now have nitrogen, but would use air with no worries. All you are are doing is moving oil back to the shock body over and over again!!! Sure AIR expands more and the rebound will change a little - but who can tell??? Ricky???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the RT gauge. But after doing about 200 shocks I don`t really use it all the time, just to check initial pressures. Seems their always at 120psi for whatever reason no matter how old the bike is:crazy:

Like MOG has basicaly posted ,I just set my nitro bottle regulator to 173psi and my shocks always test at 150psi (my target) if I re-check them. Just removing the air chuck on my rig always loses about 23psi.

But lets remember the original poster has only a 120psi max compressor so he will end up too low using just an air chuck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But lets remember the original poster has only a 120psi max

The original poster has been riding for that past couple days (on whatever he chose air or nitro) while we are still carrying on this coversation.... lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ALL gasses expand at the same rate. If you want dry air from your compressor just put an air dryer off a plasma cutter or the like in the line.

Cheers,

Dylan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A little off topic but, my buddy called the other day and asked how expensive was my nitro rig. I told him about $300.00 or so but why do you ask?

My buddy works at the local Lexas dealer and said there was a vendor coming to the dealership and changing out the regular air in the car tires for nitrogen!

He said they guy was charging $30.00 per car and said it(nitro) gives a better ride than regular air.

Whats up with that??:applause:

Should we be putting nitro in our bike tires??:eek:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×