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230F Supermoto

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Procycle.com has a 17 inch wheels set for $900 I think I'm going to buy. I want interchangable rims so I know I'll need a rotor, sprocket but what do I do about the drum?

Also, the front steering geometry will collapse with a 4 inch smaller wheel, doesn't this need to be compensated for? If so , how?

Oh, and what would optimal gearing for the street since I'm buying a sprocket anyway. Stock motor

Thanks:ride:

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You will have to have motard wheels laced to stock hubs unless you want to convert to a rear disk. I'm doing this for my 150.

Don't worry about the steering, but be prepared it's going to be waaay faster than with the 21.

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The hubs will be stock but will they mount right up without having to buy new parts, like having to have a second disk for the front?

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rims, same with tires, are sold sold by wheel size.

no shit...

i was wondering how you would get around the rear drum brake, and it has been answered

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Do you have a class to race it in?

I would love to get into supermoto if I could race against other Vets on CRF 150s or CRF 230s... just on sort of a half fun, half serious basis...sort of "serious fun."

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as for the drum... lots of mods and you can put about anything... I put 450 rear disc on my 150f... I'll post pictures later...

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Also, the front steering geometry will collapse with a 4 inch smaller wheel, doesn't this need to be compensated for? If so , how?

Oh, and what would optimal gearing for the street since I'm buying a sprocket anyway. Stock motor

Thanks:ride:

The steering issue will need to be addressed. The 17 has significantly more tire and significantly more turning capability. You have to do some work with the forks if you want this bike to work as a motard. You need to very seriously consider the following: (at a minimum)

1) Fork Brace. You can make the forks flex with the stock 21, it will be worse with the 17.

2) Heavier springs or appropriate pre-loading. The front brake is 90% of your braking capability (more so with the weak rear drum set-up). Standing on your nose under heavy braking is not comfortable or safe. Custom straight rate springs for your weight are worth the money.

3) Race Tech Emulators and appropriate weight fork oil.

Once you get the front dialed, you will see how poor the rear suspension is and it is a safety issue. Get a Works Performance Pro-Series shock.

2nd question. Gearing is going to be a trial and error deal. If for street use, start with +1 on the cs sprocket. My thought is that you will end up about 14/48 for all around street use from stock 13/50. If you are on the track, start with stock gearing and dial it in for each track.

There will be other issues that pop up. The stock front fender is not the best for your application. Get yourself a Acerbis SM front fender. Other things, like brakes will also need to be addressed...get good carbon brake pads/shoes. This stuff can be cobbled together and work for the dirt...not so on the street.

If you do this right, when you replace a part...you make it much better through the aftermarket while doing so. Quality tires make a true difference. Do some tire research for good tires for the street. If it will be a track bike...don't look anywhere but GP125 rubber front/rear. Slicks or rains for the track conditions and/or environmental conditions. A "good" motard conversion is no cheap deal. To do it right expect to spend about the cost of the bike over again +/- $3K. FYI, the money invested is just like safety equipment...it will save you money in the long run.

BTW...Procycle also has a really good front brake set-up in their supermoto section with an oversized wave rotor. Get a braided stainless brake cable also.

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