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Treehopper's Conversion Bike, Part 2

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It's starting to look like a motorcycle again. The pipe took a lot of cutting and rewelding, it fits pretty well now. MT250: I had to cut the stock front motor mounts off of the frame and make bolt on brackets, it was just too hard to snake the motor into the frame, and I wanted to make it easy to work on. With bolt on brackets, the motor practically falls into the frame. I took the detail pics for you. The kickstarter wil be the most valuable part on the bike, it took extensive reworking to make it work. Using the stock swingarm pivot put the kickstarter way too close to the frame. The next step will be a four-stroke air boot, then wiring, then routing the radiator hoses. Rich, I included a teaser of the TT for you. Click on pics.

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Project bikes are really fun. The result is often alot better than what you can buy as well.

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It's starting to look like a motorcycle again. The pipe took a lot of cutting and rewelding, it fits pretty well now. MT250: I had to cut the stock front motor mounts off of the frame and make bolt on brackets, it was just too hard to snake the motor into the frame, and I wanted to make it easy to work on. With bolt on brackets, the motor practically falls into the frame. I took the detail pics for you. The kickstarter wil be the most valuable part on the bike, it took extensive reworking to make it work. Using the stock swingarm pivot put the kickstarter way too close to the frame. The next step will be a four-stroke air boot, then wiring, then routing the radiator hoses. Rich, I included a teaser of the TT for you. Click on pics.

th_IMG_0271.jpg

th_IMG_0268.jpg

th_IMG_0266.jpg

th_IMG_0263.jpg

Hi Treehopper. I haven't been on the forum for a while, been spending my time out in the garage working on my own KLXR 145 Hondasaki conversion. Your bike is starting to shape up nice. I had been wondering how it was going. One concern, as a professional welder/ fabricator, that I always have anytime I see a Al+ frame being welded on, is heat treatment alteration. That Honda frame was heat teated at the factory AFTER the final welds were done. Any further welding creates a HAZ (heat affected zone) area where the AL+ will be softer and weaker than the surrounding area. Although some strength will come back over time due to age hardening, the only way to get it back completely is to reheatreat the entire frame after final welding. Unfortunately there is no free lunch when modifying things. You probably know this already, but if you don't, never leave a crater or depression at the end of a weld bead! Always fill them in. Craters at the end of Al+ beads are where cracks start and propagate from. I have seen this many times on factory produced products. Let us know how this thing rides when you get it done.

EBECK: I agree that doing conversions is fun, but when you get bogged down in the middle of a complicated one, like I am doing now, and you can't see the light at the end of the tunnel (like finally getting to ride the stinking thing) it can get to be a drag. I have heard about you on the CRF150-230F forum, what kind of conversions have you done? Never mind that last question, I just looked in your garage, and realized I had seen your high performance suspenion CRF230F before.

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EBECK: I agree that doing conversions is fun, but when you get bogged down in the middle of a complicated one, like I am doing now, and you can't see the light at the end of the tunnel (like finally getting to ride the stinking thing) it can get to be a drag. I have heard about you on the CRF150-230F forum, what kind of conversions have you done? Never mind that last question, I just looked in your garage, and realized I had seen your high performance suspenion CRF230F before.

No not the CRF1230, the KX-D conversion I am doing. It is a KX125 with a KDX motor and KX250 suspension with Talon Wheels.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4507080#post4507080

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=477492

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=478047

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