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E-start problem

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Getting my bike ready for some great spring riding and now have an e-start problem. Bike turns over fine for 1 or 2 pushes then it wont turn over with out me hitting the comp release, then acts like a dead battery. Battery is new, checks out ok on volt meter, I keep it on a tender. Just shimmed valves, cleaned flywheel weight, new battery, checked all wires and connections. Im thinking starter solenoid or starter gone bad? Anyone have any suggestions, the weather is perfect and I gotta go riding! Bike usually starts with 2-3 attempts when cold.

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Put a volt meter on your battery when you try to start. If the meter drops to under 11.3 volts when it quits trying to spin the starter, it is either your battery or the starter. If the battery stays up, then it is the starter solenoid.

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Before pushing the button battery reads about 12.7v, with the button pushed (just a click) the battery drops to around 5-6v, button released battery reads about 12.6v. I will try jumping it with my truck, hope its just the battery. Thanks,

Rob

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Before pushing the button battery reads about 12.7v, with the button pushed (just a click) the battery drops to around 5-6v, button released battery reads about 12.6v. I will try jumping it with my truck, hope its just the battery. Thanks,

Rob

You may have a new battery - but it is not a good battery.

Or maybe your tender is not keeping up with a current drain somewhere.

When you are done - hook the battery tender on and measure the voltage the next AM before you take the tender off, then take the tender off, measure 5 minutes after that, then maybe an hour later.

.

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Thanks Coffee, I'll do that. Just when I thought I had everything dialed in, another week of no riding:thumbsdn:

Did you jump it with your vehicle?

That should have worked - did it?

What bike? No kick start? Bump start? Or does is it a bike with no kick start, a starter / electrical problem, and a rekluse?

Where are you approximately?

.

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Looked through some of your old posts - 2004 TC250 with no kick start...

Did jumping it work? Stock clutch? Track or trail?

.

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Just shimmed valves???? Are they right? If you have too much clearence on the exhaust valves it will dissable the automatic decompressor which will make it harder to turn over

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My sons got my jumper cables in his truck so havent been able to jump it yet.

I just had to shim my intake the exhuast were .008 & .007, didnt need to adjust, rechecked all before reassemble. Im east of Kingman, AZ and I ride all types of terrain, no tracks.

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Bike started right up with jumper cables, must be the battery. Called RMATV and they are sending out a replacement today at no charge, they dont even want the bad one back:thumbsup: I gotta get that kick starter.

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Battery is new, checks out ok on volt meter, I keep it on a tender....

So what is the voltage with the bad battery in the bike (measured at the battery)

-while it's running,

-with the tender attached,

-and how long does it take to taper off to 12.7V you mentioned?

Sorry - quite curious.

.

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The volts when running is over 13v, about 12.8 when on tender and off tender before starting, after running about the same. After one push of the button it drops to 12.5. I dont have a digital multimeter just an old analog type.

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Post up when you get the new battery as to how it works.

For reference it should be the same voltage levels as in a car/truck if you want to experiment with the engine running, after sitting a day - stuff like that.

Best of luck.

.

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