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front wheel too tight?

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I just pulled the front wheel off of the bike and put a new tire on for the first time. It went back on smoothly, but it seems to have a fair amount of resistance when you try and spin it. Granted, I didn't spin it before the removal, but with a good spin it will only go for 4-5 seconds. I assume it would be easier to spin than that. You can hear the rotor scraping the pads slightly, but I don't know if thats it. I torqued everything properly.

After I rode it for awhile, the rotor was warm ofcourse, but not out of the ordinary. Nothing else felt like it got hot from too much friction. Maybe it is supposed to be pretty snug?

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Well you have brake drag and the speedo drive. You can take the caliper off and spin the wheel to see how it feels.

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Did you relube everything? I always relube when i remove the wheels... and the stock lube is about worthless, also make sure the wheel spacers are reinstalled properly. I just changes tires this weekend, so... 4 to 5 seconds may not be that bad, spread your brake pads, and try again... may just be drag. You said you torqued everything correctly, so that rules that out! Good Luck!

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spread the pads apart alittle then spin it again w/o the friction of the pads see what it does?

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spread the pads apart alittle with a screw driver, then spin it again w/o the friction of the pads see what it does?

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Thanks for the replys. I spread the pads, and it went for a little longer, but maybe another second or two. I didn't lube heavily, but I put a light coating of wheel bearing grease on everything. And yea all the spacers were put back on correctly.

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Did you relube everything? I always relube when i remove the wheels... and the stock lube is about worthless,

Exactly what do you relube? :applause: Every bike I've owned had sealed bearings on the wheels. If you are lubing the axle in hopes of it spinning on the inner bearing race, it'll wear the axle. The inner race needs to remain stationary with the axle.

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hmm.... You're right, the bearings are sealed... hmmm... :applause:

I do put some lube on the axle to prevent corrosion, but i guess i dont really lube any moving parts...

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I just pulled the front wheel off of the bike and put a new tire on for the first time. It went back on smoothly, but it seems to have a fair amount of resistance when you try and spin it. Granted, I didn't spin it before the removal, but with a good spin it will only go for 4-5 seconds. I assume it would be easier to spin than that. You can hear the rotor scraping the pads slightly, but I don't know if thats it. I torqued everything properly.

After I rode it for awhile, the rotor was warm ofcourse, but not out of the ordinary. Nothing else felt like it got hot from too much friction. Maybe it is supposed to be pretty snug?

It's important to tighten up in the correct order. Loosen the shaft bolt and the shaft clamps so that you can slide the axle. Grab the front brake and lighlty bounce the front to centre the disc in the pads.

Then tighten the axle nut to 20 N.M (hold the other side of the axle with the "special tool", I made one using a long hex bolt (19 mm I think it is, but check first) and drilled a hole through the bottom of the threaded end and (6.5mm) and the locked a piece of threaded rod through the hole by using 2 nuts either side of the threaded section. If this is confusing ask and I will post a picture).

Then tighten the 4 clamp bolts to 18 N.M.

Then tighten the axle nut fully to 42 N.M.

This should ensure that everything is where it should be, the gaps between the forks is correct, and the disk and caliper is correctly aligned.

The wheel may still drag slighlty depending on the condition of the disc, pads, brake pistons and seals. Though it should be fine.

If you still have excessive drag, check the pads are not worn skew from previous misalignment. If so replace. Also check condition of pistons and seals. At least clean and relube the seals, though best to replace them.

Hope this helps!

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Yep, I just clean the axle and coat it with WD. While it's apart, see how easily the bearings turn. If they are rough or tight, a bearing kit with seals is $15 - $20.

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Exactly what do you relube? :applause: Every bike I've owned had sealed bearings on the wheels. If you are lubing the axle in hopes of it spinning on the inner bearing race, it'll wear the axle. The inner race needs to remain stationary with the axle.

I just changed back to dirt wheels from my sm wheels, and I removed the dust seals on my wheel bearings and relubed them. Just be careful of the inner spring, prying there can damage the spring.

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Thanks for that info Patrick. I think I tightened it back up in the wrong order. If i'm not mistaken, I tightened the axle nut up before the clamp bolts:bonk:

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Thanks for that info Patrick. I think I tightened it back up in the wrong order. If i'm not mistaken, I tightened the axle nut up before the clamp bolts:bonk:

Oh, I did that once, and had a terrible shimmy once over 70mph. That may be a source of the problems others have had with high speed handlebar shake.

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