Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Time for some maintence...

Recommended Posts

'00 DRZ-400s, got her nice and cheap last spring. Been riding hard both on and off road. (Texas weather is great almost all year!) Have got her stuck in some very serious mud more than once and even managed to dunk her under water once as well. She is developing some squeeks and groans and I think its time for a little grease and oil beyond lubing the chain up.

I am decent with the wrenches and have tackled quite a few tasks but am planning on doing alot of things at once to get ready for this riding season.

These are the things I know I should do -

oil/filter

coolant flush/change

grease rear linkage

grease stearing stem

brake fluid flush/change

brake pads

fork oil change

I will use diesel motor oil, regular anti/freeze coolant, marine bearing grease, dot-3 brake fluid, and 7.5wt oil for forks (How much in each fork?).

I am not worried about the oil/filter change, the coolant flush, or the brake fluid/pads. These are all things Ive done to many bikes, 4wheelers, whatnot in the past. I have not however taken the forks off a bike nor disassembled the rear linkage. I found a nice write up here on TT about the rear linkage, looks pretty straight forward, but I did not find much info about removing the forks to change the fork oil and springs. Are there any tips or tricks anyone cares to lend? Where should I start? Will I need to take the triple clamps off? How hard is it to get to where I need to grease the stearing stem? I will also be installing .48 springs in them while they are off. Anything special to watch out for when doing that?

Do I need to replace wheel bearings? I know Ive had to do that to other rides quite a few times...if so where is a good place to get them?

Is there anythings else I should do to help keep this baby rolling nice and easy? Remeber this is a 2000 bike and I do not know just how good of care the precious owner gave it. I am also poor so nothing too expensive.

Any and all info is welcome and appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is that different than the rear linkage? Or is that simply the pivot that the linkage attaches at?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Greasing the cushlink bearings is only half the job.

You need to pull the swingarm and grease the swingarm pivot shaft, and pivot shaft bearings, while you're at it. The pivot shaft is particularly important, because if the shaft rust welds to the bushings, your motor and swimgarm become locked in your frame. Often requiring hydraulics or cutting to liberate them.:eek:

Clickity Click

And here's some good visuals on the Steering Stem grease job, too...

Clickity Click

:applause:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...but I did not find much info about removing the forks to change the fork oil and springs. ...

http://www.goodaleportal.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=35&g2_itemId=907

... and 7.5wt oil for forks (How much in each fork?)...

It is not measured by volume' date=' but height of oil in shock tube with it fully decompressed with out the spring in it.

[img']http://www.goodaleportal.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1007&g2_serialNumber=2[/img]

I think I have mine at 110 or 120mm. I used a straw with tape to stick in and measure. Also helped to remove any excess.

main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1017&g2_serialNumber=2

main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1022&g2_serialNumber=2

... I will also be installing .48 springs in them while they are off. Anything special to watch out for when doing that?...

Nothing real tricky. Before trying to even remove the top caps, back off the rebound and compression adjusters all the way. Then loosen the top triple clamp. You will then be able to loosen the top caps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Greasing the cushlink bearings is only half the job.

You need to pull the swingarm and grease the swingarm pivot shaft, and pivot shaft bearings, while you're at it. The pivot shaft is particularly important, because if the shaft rust welds to the bushings, your motor and swimgarm become locked in your frame. Often requiring hydraulics or cutting to liberate them.:eek:

Clickity Click

And here's some good visuals on the Steering Stem grease job, too...

Clickity Click

:applause:

Follow these instructions to the letter. This TTer is the man. Write up with pics was awsome. I was a bit nervous about both and 1.5hrs later I was reaching for my draft tap. Thanks to DRZ400SK4 and all the rest for inspiring much confidence. If you own the tools USE THEM.

P.S. real happy with an offset bar riser. Didn't have to remove the bars from the perch to get at the top nut.

Thanks again

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks fellas,

After reading the posted links I feel about 5 times more confident about pulling this thing apart.

A little fuel for all......

I will be doing the work this weekend, Ill be sure to post an update.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×