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What type of oil is everyone useing? also what weight?

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Suzuki full synth is pretty cheap compared to the rest ($6.25qt here)...

Whatever brand you decide on, be sure it's motorcycle specific oil. The DRZ uses the same oil for engine and trans which is has specific needs only MC specific oil has in it...

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Hey guys, I'm new to owning a DRZ400S and I checked around this morning about using oil because I need to change it at 500 miles. What I am about to say may or may not be the ABSOLUTE TRUTH, but it is useful to read.

I telephoned BOTH Suzuki of San Mateo and Suzuki of Redwood City, 2 authorized dealers near San Francisco Airport. Both service departments told me to use a petroleum based oil, not synthetic oil, for the replacement oil at the "600 mile" check and replace it after about 3000 miles.

A petroleum based oil comes with each new bike and allegedly it allows for a better wearing in of the engine parts as it's "less slippery" than a synthetic based oil.

Also, I was also told by one of the service departments that you shouldn't switch back and forth between a petroleum based oil and a synthetric based oil (which was already mentioned above.)

MY SIMPLE SOLUTION: Given that I want to avoid MAKING AN IRREVERSABLE DECISION, I chose to use a petroleum based motorcycle oil at 500 miles ! (Also, I will replace my oil every 1000 miles, my personal preference)

NOW, what's interesting is that one of these 2 dealers' service departments told me to ALWAYS use a petroleum based motorcyle oil and the other dealer said it's ideal to use a petroleum based oil for the first 4000 miles and then switch to a synthetic based oil IF you are mainly a street rider ! (Also, he said that if you switch to a synthetic oil early on, well before 4000 miles, and you see that you are burning some oil than you should go back to using a petroleum based oil to let the piston rings get properly seated and then go back to ultimately using a synthetic oil!

Also, one method of knowing WHEN to change your oil is to look at the oil on the dip stick and when it turns to a dark yellow or brown color (perhaps after 2000-3000miles) then that is the indication to change your oil.

As I mentioned in another thread, Suzuki Corporate told me this morning to simply keep my oil/filter receipts for the 600 mile oil change and that will keep 12 month manufacturer's warranty valid.

I would appreciate all you EXPERTS out there who read this reply to add your comments as I am interested in learning.... Thanks.:bonk:

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Shell Rotella 0/40 synthetic in everything. Air Compressor included.

Me too!

Only thing for me to add is that it's final use is as lube for my chain saw.

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1 Both service departments told me to use a petroleum based oil, not synthetic oil, for the replacement oil at the "600 mile" check

2) A petroleum based oil comes with each new bike and allegedly it allows for a better wearing in of the engine parts as it's "less slippery" than a synthetic based oil.

3) told me to ALWAYS use a petroleum based motorcyle oil

4) Also, one method of knowing WHEN to change your oil is to look at the oil on the dip stick and when it turns to a dark yellow or brown color (perhaps after 2000-3000miles) then that is the indication to change your oil.

1) It just goes to show that everyone, and I mean everyone has an opinion on oil. Its up to you to decide who to believe and who not to believe. Keep in mind, some high end auto's come from the factory with Mobil 1 as the factor fill.

2) Anytime anyone says anything like 'less slippery' in regards to synthetics... I pretty much just quit listening.

3) Hmmm... if their reasoning for this is that synthetic is overkill, then I may have to agree with them... but that won't keep me from using it in my bike.

4) Unless there is a serious problem (fuel dillution, water dillution etc) looking at your oil is pretty much the worst method of gauging the position of its lifecycle.

If you truly want to learn about oil, google "Bob is the Oil Guy" there is a forum dedicated to oil. You can see the breakdown of different oils. You can see real world analysis of oil that has been used and tested. You will also get a much more educated outlook on oil... something other than someone saying synthetic is 'too slippery' because thats what their daddy told them.

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another great oil thread

but just for the record, i use petro based for the time being.4 stroke specific castol as well as suzuki oil.i am just big on changing oil pretty frequently.four fresh batches with new filters and im just under 1000 miles.overkill?mabey,but only you know your riding habits.ive had a couple 100+ mile rides but for the most part those miles are to work and back(1 mile) and alot of stop lights.this boiling down to a bunch of heating cycles daily.i dont mind the 10 minutes it takes me to ensure a healthy motor:ride:

edit.

but i am now feeling guilty because i have not done the oil screen filter since evrybody said there's were clean at 1000miles..268 miles on the current batch of oil ill do it next oil change

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Well there you have it. Debunked, I like that word. I believe very little of what the bay area Suzuki dealers said. Less slippery huna. Lets start a thread on break-in since that has come up. If it ain't broke-in in 100 miles, you ain't doin it right

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Shell Rotella 0/40 synthetic in everything

0 weight oil is not good for gear boxes because it dosn't have the recommended shear strength. Also most car oils have so many '"slippery" additives in it to increase gas mileage, it is not really very good for wet clutches. I use synthetic oil in everything I own and use only motorcycle oil in my DRZ.:bonk:

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Also most car oils have so many '"slippery" additives in it to increase gas mileage

Look at the API rating circle, it will say Energy Conserving if it has friction modifiers. Typically, anything above a 10w-30 will not have them.

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There is so much info on oils for motorcycles and almost all tests show that automotive oils hold up better than motorcycle specific oils and cost less too.

You DO need to get Non-EC (energy conserving) oils which is labeled on the bottle of oil. The Non-EC guarantees that there is no "slippery" additives.

Most diesel oils seem to be the best for bikes from what I've read and Rotella T is among the best. I've tried it on my dirt bikes and it works well so I'm using it on all my bikes when my stash of Mobil 1 is gone.

Then again, use what you feel comfortable with. If you feel better paying up to 8x more for oil, go for it. Just change your oil often and don't forget to change your filter too.

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Anyone use the Suzuki brand oil? In my old DRZ i used it (10w-40) and probably will in my 400S unless someone says its crap.

Suzuki synth is all I use. Bought Torco one time at 13.00 a quart. Shifted like crap and I drained it after 100 miles and went back to Suzuki synthetic.:bonk:

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The only real complaint that you will hear is that your paying more for it to say Suzuki on the bottle.

I payed about $3 a quart for the suzuki "motorcycle specific" oil, seems cheaper than any other bike specific oil to me, its not synthetic I dont think.

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Redline 10W-40 full synthetic but I will be using the new Redline Motorcycle 10W-40 full synthetic next oil change. My DRZ-SM clutch gets along with the regular Redline 10W-40 but my R6's doesn't. The motorcycle specific oil has 50% less friction modifier than the standard so the clutch will be even happier plus more additives that protect against wear.

http://redlineoil.com

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0 weight oil is not good for gear boxes because it dosn't have the recommended shear strength

actually 0W is winter weight, ie, cold. The difference between 0w40 and 10w40 is simply, its thinner when cold...which is a good thing.

The first number IMO, the smaller the better

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Asking about oil on this site is like, sticking your hand in a bee hive.

PokeHive.gif

I run Shell Rotella T 15w40, and can honestly say that it has kept my bike together for a long time-I have a 2000 E model, and she's still going strong (after getting snot-pounded regularly). I don't have near the miles of many of the S riders, but mine tend to be more abusive (dirt, dust, high-revs, etc). Still on the stock clutch (I am not a clutch abuser though)

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I purchased every kind of oil on the planet and mixed one drop of each and now my bike runs better than a NASA rocket after billions of $ on research. Just do what I did and you will never have to worry about the oil again, no more oil changes for the life of your bike. Oh yeah, if you do this it protects so good that you don't even need an oil filter, you just fill the oil filter compartment up with sand.

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