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Never buy a used wheel on Ebay

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You cant post a message like that and not tell the story. And dont feel bad, we all have one.

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ebeck I have better luck that you have. I have a hole bike execpt the radiator grills and the fork gaurds and 3 dowel pins and all I have got that was bad was a set of handlebars and a bad cylinder a few ears ago. My forks and both of my wheels were not from big companies, just people selling parts but my bad parts were from big companies.

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That is it. Take my word on this.

Not calling you a troll, but that is the kind of post a troll would make.

Calm down and tell us the story.

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If you buy a used wheel on the internet, chances are you will get rims that have flat spots, and spokes that are frozen at the nipples. tee hee. I've purchase two from ebay and had to straighten the rims with a press and replace spokes, bearings etc. The rotors were junk in both cases.

It was still worth it IMO - compared to the cost of a new one.

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Not calling you a troll, but that is the kind of post a troll would make.

Ok fair enough, you are right. Sorry about that. I was just so pissed and now I laugh so here it is.

The wheel on Ebay had 12 pictures with it. It looked dusty but so what I bought brakes covered in mud that when cleaned up were all but new.

I bought the front wheel and recieved it alright. Since I was getting many packages every day I would look at the item and then post feedback. The problem is I did not inspect it within an inch of it's life. My fault.

I notive the bearings were siezed despite the add saying they were ok. Yeah no biggie I was going to replace them anyhow. Honest mistake I think.

2 month later I take the wheel to the shop to get it trued and the point out that the rim where the seam is is coming apart. A shop knows to look at that I did not. it was not obvious and like the add said it had no cracks. Yep no cracks at all just a split seam.

I order a Talon wheel in disgust. Sweet!

2 weeks later I go to put the axle in the Talon to line it up with the fork to look for the next issue. Hey look at that, the axle is from the mid 90's not from the lat ninties. God dam it, So I log on to ebay and I buy the correct Axle from a parts vendor I have dealt with.

I then decidt to make the best of it as life gives you lemons you make lemonade and all that. I then decide to pull the rotor off and use that. Hey at least I get something out of it. Well, it turns out one of the rotor bolts was damaged from rock or what not and there is no way to get a hex key or grip the edge. I then have to drill the rotor off. I got it off but the bolt shank is still in the hole in the hub. I basicly drilled out the head of the bolt. Easy out won't work it is good and siezed. I can get it out by drilling and tapping though but this is supposed to be a good wheel. It is notl ike I got it free....

So the rim seam is split, the axle is not the year is was stated to be which means the wheel is likley not either, the rotor was hell to remove.

All that for a $180 wheel that a a quick glance looked good and had no visible damage, nicks or flat spots. I checked for that. I missed the seam however it is really subtle.

A "goog" used wheel that is clearly new in natuire will cost $500 and a nerw Talon wheel costs $500. The Talon is worth the extra money to avoid any headaches.

Why not ship it back. Well becasue shipping was $50 one way and paying another $50 back the other is pointless.

I bought a used motor and it had excessive end play but so what I planned on spending a grand to rebuild what ever I got anyhow. A damaged wheel is a damaged wheel and there is little you can do to salvage it in that it costs less to buy a new wheel that it does to buy a new rim and relace it. Couple that with bad bearings and a used wheel make almost no sense. Unless you get lucky, and that is the point.

I will never gamble on a used wheel again. Brand new shiny talon Gold and Silver for me. I plan on repalcing my faded rear Talon hub to match the now dark gold Talon front hub by the way.

I got 2 bad radiators (bad by my standard, Once I got them I did not like them, I resold them)

1 bad swing arm

1 really bad suspension linkage

1 bad seat (I literally threw it out add was not wrong it was jsut not right)

1 bad wheel

1 set of bad forks (they covered the cost of another set though)

I expect my kickstarter that is coming to be all wobbly and floppy.:bonk:

I now have a complete bike with a a big list of spares from other issues

1 front brake

1 rear brake

1 top clamp

1 full fork leg

2 spare throttle assembly

2 spare clutch cable

1 spare throttle cable

1 spare sub frame

1 spare frame

1 spare gas tank

1 spare dusty hub.......

The good news is I know more about parts and I can spot a crap part from pictures in many cases these days. Buying used parts from Ebay is more are than science and I am now Rembrandt.

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Like I said I "could" have checked it over really well and noticed it sooner. I'd still have to send it back. Once a crap propduct is recieved your screwed when shipping is is spendy.

Used wheels are just not worth he gamble to me. Some may disagree and that is fine. There are lots of wheels on ebay for them.

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If you buy a used wheel on the internet, chances are you will get rims that have flat spots.

Flat spot - what exactly is that? I know what it SOUNDS like but want to be sure because I might have the same on my wheel . . .

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Imagine taling the tire off the rim and hitting the rim with a hard mallet until it goes flat. Put the tire back on. When it rolls it hits a flat spot. This makes it impossible to true properly.

Often the edge of the rim on one side will have it, hitting a rock or what not with low tire pressure. Same deal.

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03 KDX220 w/ Rev pipe, power reeds, RB mods & USD forks

any change I can get a picture of the Rev pipe where it exits the exhaut port and bends around the frame so I can see the frame clearance?

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My FMF k30 rev pipe is yet untweaked and it has about 1/2 inch clearance in front of the left vertical frame rail - that is the closest is comes.

With regard to the question about flat spots on a rim, most come from hitting rocks and consist of the rim outer flange being bent outward; if the hit is large enough both sides will spread out. It can be bad enough so that the tire bead is completely exposed to view, the spokes will break and sometime the rim will crack. My experience is that if the rim isn't broken, most can be fixed by loosening the spokes and using a hydraulic press to reform the flanges, then retrue the wheel. If the rim flange stretches a lot from the hit it is impossible to make the wheel look perfect again, but it will be functional and not too noticeable.

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any change I can get a picture of the Rev pipe where it exits the exhaut port and bends around the frame so I can see the frame clearance?

'Took a few snaps after I washed the bike today - see garage pics.

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'Took a few snaps after I washed the bike today - see garage pics.

Do you have the klx forks or the kx forks?

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Do you have the klx forks or the kx forks?

Neither - '98 YZ125 46mm KYBs!!

Yes, the swap worked as well as a KX swap would. Everthing that you would have to do with the KX forks I had to do with the YZ forks: KDX stem (required some knurling), shimming in the top triple clamp hole, increasing steering stop width are examples. I used a YZ wheel and axle. Front caliper bolted right on.

One thing I didn't have to do - make a custom brake line clamp on the fork protector. Lightspeed makes lower fork protectors that convert older model YZs to the '05 YZ models that route the cable along the inside of the fork leg (as opposed to down the front and around the axle).

Sorry for the hijack ebeck!!

I'm still tunin' things. I removed several of the largest 24mm shims out of the base valve stack. 'Had MX-Tech rebuild the CV cartridges. I replaced the seals, wipers, bushings. It's not as plush as the OEM forks on the tiny bumps - yet (that'll change) - but MAN is a better set up for hitting the bigger stuff and for tagging along my youngin' on his RM while on an MX track.

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