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How to tell / First valve job

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So today I decided to check the valves on my bike. Based on my first readings, they were a bit tight. Anyhow, I'm really nervous that I may not have done it right. If i screwed up, what would be some warning signs to watch for before I trash the motor?

Currently it fires right up no prob and seems to run and sound normal (I think)?

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You mean it sounds like a bag of hammers falling down a spiral steel staircase? Yep, everything's fine. :bonk:

Seriously, though, if you found TDC OK and you are sure of that, and your 0.005 feeler gauge slipped in with drag, .004 was loose, and .006 would not go, then you should be good.

I on the other hand did the first valve check at 3 hours, adjusted 3 out of four valves slightly, buttoned it all back up and was ready to test it out when I couldn't quite remember if I torqued down the adjuster screw counter lock nut on one of the valves. I was 99% sure I did, but it was the 1% uncertainty that was bugging me. So ... off with the tank, seat, radiators, and valve cover to make sure it was torqued and sure enough it was. Whew. At least I can sleep comfortably now otherwise it would still be bugging me to this day waiting for my engine to grenade if that nut came loose and starting rolliing around in there - that would not be good.

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LOL, ya the standard loud clutch noises were still there. Everything else seemsed good and I am 99.9% sure I had it at TDC. It seems that notch for the crank stop bolt can be seen 2 different times.

RFS_TDC_crankpicture.jpg

One of the 2 times the valve train (refering to the little arms that hold the guides) will be loose, well sorta loose, that is where you do your adjustments from. If the valves are tight, then your on the wrong stroke, right?

feeler_gauge.jpg

I have to say, that was a big old pain and not something I'm looking forward to doing a whole lot.

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Yeah, it sucks the first time but gets exponentially easier the more you do it. I check mine every time I do an oil change now, and it takes about 15 extra minutes. Well worth the peace of mind.

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Hey Falling, do you drain the coolant and remove the radiators in that short of time or do you have a short cut? I didn't actually remove my radiators on my first check and I was able to adjust both inlet valves fine and one of the exhaust valves, left side, but luckily the right side exhaust vavle was OK because I'm not sure how I could have adjusted it with the radiator in the way. I did unbolt them so they would move around with the hoses attached so they weren't fixed in position. Even so, the right side exhaust valve looks like it would be hard to reach. It was OK to check (barely), but I don't think I could have adjusted it if necessary without removing the radiator.

What's your trick or short cut?

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Wow, I'm not sure there's anyway to check and adjust both exhaust valves with the radiators attached. Well unless you have really skinny hands, I guess that would do the trick.

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Hey Falling, do you drain the coolant and remove the radiators in that short of time or do you have a short cut? I didn't actually remove my radiators on my first check and I was able to adjust both inlet valves fine and one of the exhaust valves, left side, but luckily the right side exhaust vavle was OK because I'm not sure how I could have adjusted it with the radiator in the way. I did unbolt them so they would move around with the hoses attached so they weren't fixed in position. Even so, the right side exhaust valve looks like it would be hard to reach. It was OK to check (barely), but I don't think I could have adjusted it if necessary without removing the radiator.

What's your trick or short cut?

I use a bungee to hold the radiators as far forward as possible and I have a wrench that I heated up and bent appropriately and an extra long feeler gauge that I bent in a U-shape so I can come back into the valve from the front. Luckily, I put stainless valves in at the beginning of last year, so I usually haven't needed to adjust them. The right side is a pain but it can be done without draining the coolant and pulling the radiator. Although, it is easier to do it that way. Sorry, I am of little help.

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That seems like it would still be tricky. I don't think draining the coolant and removing the rads is all that hard anyhow. It does add an extra 15-20 minutes to the job though.

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There is a short cut, but it scares me. Do a search on here or look on www.ktmtalk.com and it will be there. The arguments over which way is better are also in about every thread on checking valves. Many people like the short cut but I'd rather take the extra time to do it the fool proof way (by the book). It's not hard it just takes a little time.

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"Sounds" like you did the adjustment just fine. KTM does make an angled feeler guage that makes the process a lot easier.

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