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AP adjustment

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Ok I searched don't flame, I've got an 03 Yz250f, and I'm in the process of doing some minor tuning adjustments. I set the AP position and timing per the manual, by putting the .049in rod under the slide, turning the idle knob down so the slide hits the rod(I don't know if this is right), turning the AP cam screw all the way in and turning it out until there is zero play in the cam. My question is after I've done the adjustment I have to turn my idle screw way up (clockwise) for the bike to start and idle. Which doesn't give much room for the idle adjustment after I'm done. I was wondering if there was a better way to set the AP timing or if I'm actually doing this right.

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A lot of people consider this a good starting point. Most people will fine tune this adjustment to eliminate the bike's tendency to bog. Once you've done the step you just completed, the AP timing is set so that the AP squirt just misses the slide when you flick the throttle open.

Next, the AP squirt duration is adjusted via the leak jet so that it lasts between 0.5 and 1.0 sec. These steps help fix the bog problem that so many people report.

Lately people have been reporting excellent results with the Redbeard mod. This involves looping and o-ring around the AP actuator and the AP bell crank. Apparently this keeps them moving in unison, and that helps reduce the bog as well.

During these adjustments you will likely change the slide height at idle. This shouldn't result in any problems, and will likely move your idle adjustment more towards the middle of its range. Your slide won't care if it's not at exactly .049", and neither will you as long as it runs right.

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great info, thanks! After all the write ups on ap timing I've seen, I was kind of boggled by the way the manual explained it and you cleared all that up for me. I'm going to finally set mine up this weekend, can't wait to see the results!

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By the, way turning the screw in results in a sooner squirt or vice versa?

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