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WR250F Seat Height Reduction?

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I have a new (07) WR250F...great bike but really tall...for me anyway.

Does anyone have suggestions on the optimal way to lower the seat height?

I have heard about cutting the foam down and also about changing linkages in the rear suspension.

What's the best way to accomplish a lower seat height without adversely affecting handling etc.?

Thank you,

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Hey Scott,

How tall are you? I just picked up a new '06 and found it pretty tall. I'm 5'8" with a 30 in inseam. I took just over an inch off the seat, and narrowed it at

the top some so I could reach the ground better, and now if I sneak a cheek just a little I can flat-foot one side or the other. It's still tall, but I'm reluctant to mess with the still-unbroken in suspension yet. I'll post a picture tonight if I can get a few minutes.

Alleycatdad

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The best way is to get the front and rear suspension lowered internally. Unfortunately, it's also the most expensive way. If you get a revalve done at the same time, it will cost you about $700-800.

I had mine lowered an inch and a half and it's been way worth it.

A lot of people use the lowering links cause it's relatively cheap, but it only lowers the rear and changes the handling of the bike, especially in turns.

The Yamaha seats are so hard already, I decided that wasn't the route for me.

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I have a 2001 WR250F and I was able to cut the rear sub-frame about 3/4" and drop the rear and seat down 1 1/4". The 2001 sub-frame is steel not aluminum, which makes it easier to work on. I have since put a stock sub-frame back on. the cut down sub-frame didn't affect the handling that I could tell, but I didn't like the looks of the bike. I have since added a higher foam height seat for comfort on longer dersert rides. At 5'8" I've just learned to live with the height. As I improve my riding skills the height becomes less of an issue.

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I am only 5'7'' and I have a 06' WR250F. Love the bike, but it was just way too tall for me. I rode a my first hare scramble the beginning of March and it was still icy out. With me being short and not able to touch very well, when I would slip on the ice, I ended up stretching too much and tore a ham string. OUCH!!! I decided to buy a lowering link, BEST purchase yet!!!!! I had already cut off some of the seat which wasn't enough, but now with the lowering link, it ROCKS!!!! I think it cost me just under $270 shipped to me and was VERY simple to install. I also lowered the front shocks in the clamp about a 1/2 inch. I think it still handles great. Goodluck!!

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I have a lowering link on my 2007 WR 250 too, and love it. Some people say they don't like the handling with it on, others say it turns better, it really depends on what article you read. I like how my bike handles for the type of riding I do.

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Rumer has it there is a new product almost out for the alum frame yami's that doesnt lower the seat, but makes riding it for smaller guys easier and roomier. To bad I can't really tell you about it... yet.

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I strongly recommend looking at te Mountain Motorsports lowering kit. It is a high quilty product that lowers the rear just like they say. Then you drop the front forks and the bike sits perfect. I have not noticed any ill side effects in the handling department. Actually the opposite since I can get my feet planted in the tight sections of the trails it is just easier to ride the bike.

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Before you decide to lower it make sure the suspension is broken in & reset the sag. Springs need to suit your weight or you will never get this right.

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scott, check out my photo documentation on my lowering (and other) mods. I cut the seat foam down and have an mms link, also dropped the forks to the second line. For HS and enduros it's just great, though if I had the bucks I'd go with the professional lowering. The mms link tends to bottom out too much and it you do the mx track it gets hammered too much. .... oh yeah, and I'm 5'3" , need I say more? ......

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Hey Scott,

I'm only 5'4" ~ 5'5" and I ride my bikes at full height (meaning correct sag, suspension set for my 130lb frame, no foam cut out of the seat) including my 01 YZ250F. Overall I find that riding the bike at full height has made me a better rider. I rarely have to put my foot down, and when I do, the bike is really leaning through a turn so I can reach.

I have only been on a bike with a lowering link a few times but I can tell you it definately ruins the handling for an intermediate to advanced rider like myself. It really hurts on large jumps, whoops, and washboards as well. If you are going on slow trail riding however, or very tight woods, where you have to go slow anyway, then I don't think the lowering link would hurt as much. It would also be fine for casual trail riding I would guess.

I am still considering getting mine professionally lowered by Factory Connection (best suspesion in the world IMHO) to see what it would be like to ride a bike that is more my "size" but honestly I think a few hours on the bike at normal height would do you some good as it really forces you to get your foot on the pegs and stand-up which are two of the most important riding concepts you can ever learn. I personally spend 99.9% of the time on my pegs which is the right place, and if I need to stop suddenly in a tight trail for some reason and I can't get off to one side I find myself beside the bike and then hopping back on to get going. Only time it really hurts is killing the bike on a very steep incline, then I'm in trouble... 👍

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All great feed back but I want to express a different view point for those of us who only pleasure ride; the lowering link works very well. If I was racing the bike or if I was a very aggressive rider I might want to consider whether to lower the bike or not but the suspension would definitely go to a shop for mods. You can still run the bike pretty hard if setup correctly with the lowering link and be just fine. The other cool thing about the link it only takes 10 minutes and the bike is back to stock. So a person could send the suspension off to a shop not to be lowered but to gain the improvements over the stock hangers. Get all of the goodies then add the link, lower the forks and there you go. I have a WR450F and a WR250F both 07 models. I have lowered the WR250F for the really tight mountain trails but I have kept the WR450F at the stock height. I bottom out both suspensions with or without the link. However the link definitely changes the rear geometry making it softer, nothing a heavier spring could not help out. It depends on what a person is going to do with their equipment. I have read and I really like all of the feedback that I have seen on this site it helps all of us make better decisions and it helped me decide which path to take with my WR(s).

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I had my 01 WR 250f lowered by factory connection and revalved for tight trails. It did make the bike easier in the tight stuff but suffers in the rocks as the engine is closer to the ground/rocks. Also the kickstand is too long and should be lowered, but with careful placement off camber the kick stand issue is ok. The front springs were shortened and the rear shock has a bumper to prevent full extension. To reverse this new front springs are required and the bumper removed.

I have since put taller tires on it and it is now taller than the lowered setting, but less than stock. Try lower profile tires and sliding the forks up first.

Bob

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