Foot Peg Mod

Thanks to the search engine and SFO I figured what needs to be done....trim off the barrel below the foot peg support and weld it back on the top. Easy so far, so long as you know someone who can weld....will a glue gun work if not :)

Question : what about the return springs? Can I still use them, will they be obsolete. Do I just swap them left for right ?

I just did this mod a few months ago. I did not weld the barrel/peg and rode it a couple of times. It's actually being welded today, though to be on the safe side.

The springs you just reverse from side to side. No problem, mon!

You'll have to adjust your brake/shifter down somewhat.

This mod is nice for tall people. My only complaint is the kickstand spring is a little too close to the boots, however it does not seem to be causing an rideability issues.

Hoots Mon!!!

Now about that brake on EARTH do you adjust it down. Mine is already in the lowest position it will go, even without the footpeg mod I would prefer it lower. I dissambled the whole thing last night including the master cyclinder.

I think I will create a new cage to interact with the brake piston as it could do with being about 1/3 inch shorter.

Either that or I could drill some new holes in the frame support and move the cylinder up a half inch. Anybody done that?

Any ideas would be great.

Also... I noticed last night that my rear master cylinder has a electrical pressure sensor to light the rear brake light, but it don't work. Bulb is fine : how do I check what is wrong. I have 0 elctrical skills beyond being able to change batteries and put plugs.

Just below the brake slave cyl, you'll see a rod with two nuts. These are the adjusting/locking nuts. I *think* you'll move the nuts upward. You can watch the lever move while twisting the adjusting nut to be sure you're goin in the right direction.

I don't have the electrical switch on my WR, but had problems with these things in the past on other bikes.

First, remove the switch and wiring. Check for cracks in the wiring, corroded connectors, etc. Next, put some goggles on, spray some contact cleaner down the hole where the chrome-type rod comes out of the pressure switch. Then blast it with compressed air. Clean up connectors with Naval Jelly, or soap/water with an old toothbrush. Give it another try. No dice? Check the bulb-there should be two filaments. The brake light filiment is slightly thicker. Check corrosion on the contacts in the bulb holder, and wiring coming out of the brake light. My guess is if it's still broken, the switch probably is dead...

You know, I thought about something else that could be the problem.

Now that you've adjusted the lever down, that chrome rod for the sensor is located further into the sensor, thus more travel is needed to activate the switch. You may want to try adjusting the switch first. Most of them have a black plastic 14mm nut which holds the unit in place. Remove the switch, pull the rod out my hand as far as you can go (don't force it) with the engine on and see if the brake light comes on. If it does, adjust the nut accordingly. If no, it's something else...

Good luck, electrical problems can be frustrating, luckily the WR has relatively simple electronics :)

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