K&N Filter for direct attachment to 05 XR650L Stock Carb

Hi Folks,

I have a 05 XR650L. I want to remove the air box

and mount a K&N filter directly to the stock carb throat.

Anyone know the K&N part number that will fit that application?



I've thought about the same idea, but I don't recommend the K&N if you use the bike in any kind of dust. I used to run a K&N on my 650R. Loved the performance, but after 6-8 cleanings, it started letting dust through.

I recommend a TwinAir Power flow kit, and cut/drill some holes on both sides of the airbox. Doing that woke up an older 600R we have in the family. Uni kits are cheaper, but you get what you pay for...

I've thought about the same idea, but I don't recommend the K&N if you use the bike in any kind of dust. I used to run a K&N on my 650R. Loved the performance, but after 6-8 cleanings, it started letting dust through.

A K&N air filter will work effectively and be reliable as long as the following is adhered to:

  • Filter must be in good condition. Not worn out or damaged.
  • Filter must be installed correctly.
  • Proper maintenance must be followed.

I've run K&N in my trucks, street bikes, and dirt bikes, and as long as the above is followed, there should be no problems.

Another thing to consider is that some people clean their K&N filter too frequently and incorrectly, which leads to premature wear and potential damage.

As far as letting damaging dust through, after almost twenty years of using K&N products, I've only experienced product failure when something was either wrong with the filter or its installation.

I know someone who runs a clamp on K&N on his 650R, except he has it adapted via a section of tubing to his Edelbrock carb. He seems to have no probs with it.

The biggest concern with running an open filter instead of an airbox should be the environment you ride in. I wouldn't recommend it if you do a lot of deep water crossings.

I followed the cleaning instructions to a tee. I even went to the website and read the details directions there, because the packaging instructions are very simplified, and not very clear. I used sealing grease, allowed my cleaned filters to dry for 24 hours before oiling them, and the filter was never in "bad" condition.

It's your bike, so do as you will. I have used K&N and I don't trust them any farther than I can throw them.

Go take a 100 mile ride in the dust, take out your K&N, lick your finger and swipe the "clean" side of the airbox. I am willing to bet there is a very light, fine layer of dust in there. There was in mine.

I used K&N for years, but I'll never use them again. TwinAir filters & No Toil oil have convinced me of how a off-road filters should work. Besides, who wants a filter with all these stupid rules to follow. A TwinAir or Uni has just SLIGHTLY less flow, but 100% better filtering. If you're willing to destroy a 7000 dollar machine for 1 extra HP, go right ahead.

Just for fun,

How to clean a K&N:

1. Spray the dirty side of the filter with K&N filter clearner and allow to soak for 10-20 mins. (The stuff they use is corrosive to your skin, but not effective on removing oil & dirt. You'll end up using a LOT of cleaner on a really dirty filter)

2. Using low pressure, cold water, rinse the filter from the clean side out. (because the cleaner sucks, you'll easily waste 20 gallons of water trying to get all the crap out)

3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 because the filter still isn't clean.

4. Allow the filter to air dry. (If the cotton is damp at all, it won't soak up the oil very well. I let mine dry for 24 hours, which sucks)

5. Spray the filter with K&N oil. Only spray the dirty side, and allow 10-15 minutes for it to fully soak into the cotton.

6. Use a bunch of sealing grease to make sure the rubber gasket seals.

No Toil Cleaning Instructions:

1. Use 1 gallon of warm water in a bucket. Add some No Toil cleaner (Non-Toxic).

2. Insert filter in bucket and squish it for a minute or so. Don't dump the bucket yet.

3. Remove clean filter and rinse with clean water. (cleaner & dirt rinses right out)

4. Dry the filter any way you want, including a laundry dryer, or compressed air.

5. re-oil the filter and re-install it. Use the bucket of cleaner to wash your hands. Done in 1 hour.

I here what your saying and agree totally,I have used the k&n for years,still do on my street bikes and in my old fj62 land cruiser,but there a pain to clean and your allways running out of cleaner befor you run out of oil,got tons ofthe stuff on a shelf to prove it. The fact is foam is the way to go on a dirt bike period not just for the sake of filtering but how much effort it takes to clean the things.

If you are a professional racer, and you tear down your engines for rebuilds after only a handful of hours of runtime, then K&N is OK.

Other than that, K&N's are not a good thing. Expensive, maintenance whores, and they let dust through---no matter how you prep and install one.

A decent oil/foam filter will thoroughly clean the intake charge, and will not restrict airflow. Inexpensive, easy to maintain, and actually clean the air.

What K&N does have going is a massively misleading advertising/marketing campaign. :thumbsup:

I know that I've had good luck with vehicles I've run K&N filters on.

I've been using them exclusively since the mid 80's on every vehicle I've owned. Never had an engine failure of any kind related to airborne contaminants conveyed through the air filter.

I don't find them difficult to clean, though it does take several hours for the filter to dry if I do it in the fall or winter. Spring and summer dry time is a few hours at most. I just know to schedule my cleaning when there is sufficient time for the job.

I can't complain at all with the experience I've had with K&N.

In case you guys don't think I'm kooky enough, I even run K&N oil filters.

Ditto on the no problems, and I've been running the oil filters since about '02.

I change the dirt bike oil filters about every 5th ride, the street bike filters about every 5k miles (synthetic oil), and the car/truck filters about every 7.5k miles (synth oil also).

Flame suit on, fire away.

No law states that people must agree on air filter choices. :thumbsup: No flame war intended.

But I will say this:

Take 2 clean intake tubes and attach them to a device that creates a vacuum. It would also help to have an airflow/airmass sensor to determine equal lack of restriction. On one tube, put on your K&N the way K&N instructs. Put a foam/oil filter on the other tube.

So you have two equal 'intakes' running at equal pressure/vacuum, and fire it up in a dusty environment. After a few minutes, remove both filters, and check for what is allowed to pass through the filter. Only SOME of it will be deposited on the walls of the tube, the rest made it into the 'engine'.

My money's on the foam/oil filter's tube being essentially clean, while the K&N's tube is dusty.

Will this dust cause engine failure? I doubt it. But why go to lengths and expenses to change to a filter that lets dust through?

........After a few minutes, remove both filters, and check for what is allowed to pass through the filter.


And therein lies the "rub". (No pun intended, speaking in terms of friction, that is. :thumbsup:

Let's face it, anybody who thinks that air filters block out all contaminants is kidding himself. It all boils down to maintenance, keep the filter properly maintained, and keep the oil changed regularly, and there should be minimal damage to the engine.

I'm willing to bet that the trace amounts of dust found in the intake boot of any "filtered" system (even foam filters) are so small, that they blow through the combustion chamber without being abrasive enough to do any detrimental damage to the rings, cylinder walls, or valve seating surfaces.

Quality oil and regular oil changes will keep the bearings, seals, and engine internals clean and happy. Well, maybe a little dirty just before the oil change, but I have yet to experience an engine failure.

There's gonna be some shinola that gets through any filtering system, that's all there is to it. Stopping all particles is just not possible.

Maybe I bought into the "marketing hype" when I was in my early twenties, but now that I've hit 40 and I'm still running these horrible filters, I'd say I probably still use them 'cause they work. Afterall, nobody but me pays for my maintenance, and I'm a cheap bastage.:ride::worthy:

Claims like this are specifically why I won't run items like a K&N filter:


Read through the hype, and the facts manifest.

"Dirt buildup on a paper element reduces capacity." True.

"Dirt buildup on a K&N increases efficiency." Huh? Oh, ok, so the dirt itself acts as a barrier, and creates a condition where more dirt becomes filtered. Fine. It's plausible. But........just what happens to all the previous dirt that DIDN'T get filtered while the filter wasn't dirty? Say, for the first 5-10,000miles?

The also complain about paper clogging, and collapsing, or pulling particles through if the element is restricted. K&N can clog if neglected too. K&N can collapse if so clogged that the pressure differential overcomes its resistance to collapse. K&N will pull debris and oil through if clogged and neglected. But they happily skip over such facts. They happily skip over the basic concept of surface area, of which a paper element is designed for. They reach saturation toward their end of service life.

That one webpage has about 6 different kinds of BS claims to it. Any product that requires obfuscation of fact, omission of fact, and mental "slight of hand" is definitely an illusion.

I think oiled foam is the best of paper, K&N types and foam. K&N claims that dirt gets pulled deeper into the foam as it reaches saturation. True, but that dirt doesnt make its way through and into the engine, and definitely catches debris a K&N would happily pass through.

I also see/read of no science whatsoever that validates any claims. Everyone claims how much more HP they gained, but I would have to see the Pepsi Challenge before I bought into any of that. Also, I'd really like to see an afterfilter placed after paper, foam, and gauze(K&N)---and show the results as to how much gets by. I bet the K&N passes a disturbingly high amount of dust in comparison. Tell people that the increase in unfiltered dirt is from the K&N, and then the smoke & mirrors logic will negate it's harm. Tell people that a no-name brand paper filter passed that much dust, and it's manufacturer/reputation will be cast into the bowels of Hell.

True, no filter is 100%, but I bet that if I put a Wal-Mart filter on someone's bike, and it passed as much dirt as a K&N, they'd be looking to beat me senseless. But if it's from K&N, well then, it's the best out there. People see/believe what they want to.

Bottom line, use what you want; I am not trying to change opinion here. I will; however, call BS when I read it, and their ad campaign is so full of holes and omissions of pertinent facts that my BS meter pegs out. I was born at night, but it wasn't last night. :thumbsup:

ETA: This is in no way or means to be an attack on anyone (except deceitful marketing). For me, it's all good discussion to have. :cheers

i use the uni filter 2 and a half inch i.d. pod filter. same application you are talking about. i relocated my battery to the stock airbox and needed to use this filter. 14 bucks at your local bike shop. just dont overtighten the clamp.

All I know is, with my old K&N, I saw a visible amount of dust in my airbox. That is not exceptable to me. With my TwinAir power flow kit & no toil oil, I have just slightly less power, but I have never seen any visible dust in the airbox. Also the foam is faster & cheaper to clean, so it can be done more often.

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