Just purchased 01 WR426

[tp3dxf]

I have just purchased a 01 WR 426. This bike is awsome. I haven't even put one minuite of riding time on it. I currently have a 95 DR350SE. Fun bike but the WR should be a real eye opener. I was wondering if anyone in California has been able to register this bike for street use. I know there are dual sport kits available for this bike but will they get through the DMV? My dealer told me that the bike is red stickered here in CA. I would love to get some plates for my new machine. Maybe I could get It registered in Nevada or Oregon. Also what is the deal with the throttle stop? Can I just remove it or must I actually replace it with a YZ stop. These questions probably have been explained here too many times. Thanks for any good info in advance.

[skthom2320]

Here are some other tips -

(1) Run Yamalube 4 (not 4R) or another premium non-synthetic for break-in. This lets everything seat well. Don't switch to a semi- or full-synthetic until after that. Some people prefer to continue using non-synthetic. I sleep better if use a synthetic oil. Do a search on best oil (upper right corner near the post new topic) if you want to see the great oil debates. I change oil every other ride and have used Yamalube 4R but am now using Mobil 1 15w-50 (in the red cap). Also, beware of shooting oil from the frame drain. I use a milk carton to redirect the stream into my oil drain pan. Also don't worry about specks of metal in the oil filter. It is normal and should get lighter with time.

(2) Suspension will be stiff for a while. Set the rear sag to 90-100 mm as soon as things are broken in a little. I just knock the lock ring loose with a punch and turn the spring by hand. Sometimes I have to turn the spring with one hand and push on the ring above the shock (not the lock ring) with a screwdriver at the same time.

(3) Cold bikes want rich mixture so use the choke to cut down the air supply. One or two blips of the throttle is sometimes necessary depending on the weather. Hot bikes want leaner mixture so use the hot start button which lets in more air. I usually try one kick w/o hot start first, then I use hot start (unless I stalled then I use hot start right away). Get used to your fuel screw position. Cold mornings I usually richen the pilot circuit with the fuel screw (out to richen) then lean it out as the day gets warmer. Too lean will result in a popping on deceleration (chopping the throttle) or an idle that "hangs" too high. Too rich - runs like crap down low!

(4) The stock bars bend just by looking at them. Keep an extra set of handle bars in your truck. Don't want to go home early!

(5) Cover up the "weep hole" on the right side of the engine when washing the bike. Don't want a bunch of moisture around the plug.

(6) Take your forks off and grease the steering stem. Take the swingarm off and grease all the linkage and pivot joints.

(7) Don't put a freshly oiled air filter on and be careful not to over oil. These bikes will suck in some of the oil and run like crap after. I know from first hand experience. Let sit at least overnight. Keep at least one extra air filter on hand.

(8) Take the washers off the swingarm chain slider and use a socket to bend the rims down more. You want them to hold the slider very tight. Otherwise you will wear a groove in your new aluminum swingarm like I did.

(9) There were some reports of grenaded rear hubs. I and others run the chain slack on the high end of the recommended range (1.6 - 2 is recommended, I use 2 - 2.25) for piece of mind.

(10) I check my rear sprocket bolts every time I ride due to reports of them loosening prematurely. I loctite them as well and have never (yet) had a loose one.

Hope this helps!

Steve T

[tp3dxf]

Thanks for all the tips. I rode her for an hour today between 1/4-1/2 throttle. She was in fully stock mode. I didn't set the sag or fiddle with any suspension settings. After one hour I let her rest for 15 min. Then restarted and rode just a little harder for another 15 min. I decided that was enough for the day. Watched the Super Bowl, "Great game". I then uncorked the stock exhaust and am currently looking for the famous "GREY WIRE" I have the tank off and there are wires everwhere! Apparently I need to not only disconnect the GREY wire but also another as well? I am a little confused. Any help much appreciated. Later.

[huskyrider]

tp3dxf,

everybody has their own way to breakin and modify their new bike. here's mine.

first 100 miles- ride the bike easily with 1/2 the time at a steady rpm in the middle of your rpm range and the other 1/2 rowing through the gears at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle never passing the middle of the rpm range.change oil and filter and remove the pipe baffle.

some guys would now consider the bike brokenin.

second 100 miles- same steady rpm half the time with rowing the gears at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. mix in a few full throttle romps through the gears.

change oil and filter. after the 200 miles, here are 3 free mods that deliver big returns.

1- cut & wrap the grey paired with the black w/ white stripe, this is the only single pair coming from the ignition box on your gooseneck.

2- remove the airbox cover

3- remove the throttle stop and cut to 23mm then replace.

have fun with the newfound power.

[SoCalWR426]

tp3dxf,

Are you the same D. that sent me p/m?

If so, give me a call I will be glad to help you out. If not the same guy, get ahold of me anyway and we can take care of it. We're not too far from each other. Where did you get your bike?

SoCal

[huskyrider]

tp3dxf,

find the 3 groups of wires coming out of the ignition box wiring group.(on gooseneck)

look for the grey wire which is paired to a black wire w/white stripe.

this is the only single pair cable going into a snap connector.

cut the gray wire and insulate it(wire nut w/ silicone inside works well).now only the black w/ white stripe is connected through the connector.

this mod provides a crisper midrange.

EZ & FREE WR mod.