does anyone use yamalube??

Used yamalube for years....now I use Amsoil. Bikes shift better and clutch action is better. Ymalube breaks down faster in my experience - yes even at 3hrs of use.

Amsoil is cheaper and better....period:thumbsup:

Amsoil is cheaper and better....period:thumbsup:

I won't disagree on Amsoil being better but I don't think I've ever seen where it's cheaper than Yamalube. ?

As a preferred customer, you can buy it by the case, and have it delivered to your doorstep for a true net cost of $8/qt, including shipping and your membership fees.

I've seen that pricing on the Amsoil site but that's still more expensive than Yamalube that I've see priced at several local shops for 7 bucks a bottle.

Again, not questioning the quality of Amsoil, only questioning the comment that it's "cheaper" than Yamalube.

i am still trying to figure out how all my european friends who ride their bikes hard only change their oil every 800 to 1000km and as far as I know there are no regular engine failures? they ride KTM , Husqvarna, Yamaha... doesnt matter and all use different oils... motorex, silkolene, motul, castrol, yamalube, doesnt matter...

we North Americans are nuts with these oil changes every ride... I say we cuz I am originally from Vancouver...

I cannot find anyone here who would agree that I should change my oil every ride and even lots of the enduro riders who race 7 hours Saturday and 5-6 hours Sunday dont even worry about changing it until the weekend is over... and even then some dont until they hit over 800km or so...

what gives?

and I think thats why bike oil costs an arm and a leg over here... cuz they just dont sell by the case here... almost 20 EUR per litre for Motul bike oil here... Yamalube is like 15 EUR... full retail of course... EUR is 1.3 USD so its like 26 USD per litre here... (after 20% tax).

anyway just thought I would throw that out there for some of you to ponder...

does a reasonable quality oil break down so fast that it would harm the engine to the point it will stop functioning if not replaced every 800km given everything else is maintained properly and not contaminated by human error or incorrect level of oil, coolant leak, or long incorrect storage of bike, incorrect jetting etc.

How many of you have actually had engine failure?? Do you know what was the real cause??

okay my 2 cents...

This might be a dumb question, but I've heard that using the aftermarket, synthetic oils can make the clutch slip. Like I said, this might be a dumb question but the guy I heard it from swears it is true. GrayRacer, maybe you can answer this???

I've been using R4 for almost 6 years now. I work for a dealer, so I get oil at dealer cost. A qt of R4 costs me about $6.50. Most all the factory performance oils are expensive. I understand you guys trying to save money buying cheaper oils. I personally will put nothing but the factory specific oils in my engines. I also agree, a person is most likely NOT going to blow up his engine from running Rotella oil vs. R4, but a person WILL blow up his engine from not performing long overdue oil changes. I've rebuilt 2 of my different buddies' YZF engines, and when the YZF engines pop, it's about $1600 in parts to rebuild. Both blown engines seemed to stem from debris trashing the internal cavity of the oil pump, which caused the oil pump to not flow output enough, which eventually siezed the engine.

I've been using R4 for almost 6 years now. I work for a dealer, so I get oil at dealer cost. A qt of R4 costs me about $6.50. Most all the factory performance oils are expensive. I understand you guys trying to save money buying cheaper oils. I personally will put nothing but the factory specific oils in my engines. I also agree, a person is most likely NOT going to blow up his engine from running Rotella oil vs. R4, but a person WILL blow up his engine from not performing long overdue oil changes. I've rebuilt 2 of my different buddies' YZF engines, and when the YZF engines pop, it's about $1600 in parts to rebuild. Both blown engines seemed to stem from debris trashing the internal cavity of the oil pump, which caused the oil pump to not flow output enough, which eventually siezed the engine.

can I ask what you mean by long overdue?

I think there is a fine line these europeans are riding when they stretch it out to 800 or 1000km... I personally keep it below 500 and change it after each two day race... cant stand to think 30 Euro for oil and filter would stop me from changing it "too often" !

I've seen that pricing on the Amsoil site but that's still more expensive than Yamalube that I've see priced at several local shops for 7 bucks a bottle.

Again, not questioning the quality of Amsoil, only questioning the comment that it's "cheaper" than Yamalube.

Let me know the name of your dealer and maybe I can have them to ship me some!!! because I just bought a couple of quarts the other day at my yamaha dealer and had to pay $9.00 a quart:eek: . Thats why Iam switching to ams in a couple of weeks.:applause:

I have used the Yamalube 4R exclusively in my 02 426. I buy it in a 6 qt. pack from Rocky Mtn ATC and get a decent break. I well imagine my slow old style has contributed to no problems. I rarely hit the rev limiter and change the oil/clean or replace the main filter every 3 hours. The Amsoil is tempting me after reading this thread and having a friend that is a dealer for Amsoil. Maybe in the near future I will switch.

Bill

Does anyone know if Amsoil is available outside of the US?

Preferred customer?

I assume that just means that you order by the crate right?

Does anyone know if Amsoil is available outside of the US?

Preferred customer?

I assume that just means that you order by the crate right?

So I googled amsoil..

they have a site that works fine and I think will answer my questions..

Sorry...

Amsoil

Anyone give maxima a shot? Ran good in my two smoke, use it in my roadbike and also use it in my '04 yz450f. never had any problems as far as oil deprivation with it. Use maxum4 premium in my roadbike (bandit 1200) every 3000 miles and maxum4 extra in the yz approximately 5-10hr depending on how hard i rode. I find it good oil and cost effective.

i used maxima synthetics as well in my two smoke, but i just got the 426 and i planned on using maximas 10w-40 full sythetic, good idea or no?? they looked like they faired pretty well in that oil study, id say maybe 3-4th overall

i used maxima synthetics as well in my two smoke, but i just got the 426 and i planned on using maximas 10w-40 full sythetic, good idea or no?? they looked like they faired pretty well in that oil study, id say maybe 3-4th overall
it's a good oil AFAIK.
I've used Yamalube on my 01 YZ426 since new. Have never used anything but Yamalube. For the first year I changed the oil at least every second ride. For the first 6 rides during break in I changed it every ride. I now do it every 2-3 rides.

VERY happy with it. Get this.....2001 426.....I have never adjusted the valve on the bike even:eek: Have never even had to get into the engine for anything. I ride the bloody thing hard also....

Yeah, yeah.......Your supposed to adjust the valves every (insert recommended hours here). But seriously....I spoke to a Yammy rep and he told me if it isn't noisy and if it starts in the first two kicks, then don't worry about it.

The bike gets ridden at least every second weekend for usually 6-8 hours a weekend, for 8 months of the year.

Needless to say I am VERY happy with Yamalube 20/40:applause:

I guess I'm a little confused on this one.....can somebody explain to me how valve clearances, short of cam journal bearing destruction, can be related to quality of oil used?? The last time I checked, the valve faces (where you would anticipate erosion/wear due to contact) do not receive any lubrication.......

I think a more proper measurement of oil quality would be compression (shows ring condition), visual and instrumental inspection of bearing surfaces and the gear teeth in the tranny, along with post-use lab testing of the oil to measure "out of grade"-ness. Make sense, or am I once again "lost"?

You're half right; valve clearance has nothing to do with oil unless the clearance increases, rather than closing up as they normally do.

But compression rings receive virtually no oil, and like the valves, are lubed by the fuel alone.

You're half right; valve clearance has nothing to do with oil unless the clearance increases, rather than closing up as they normally do.

But compression rings receive virtually no oil, and like the valves, are lubed by the fuel alone.

Good point!

According to the test Mobil 1 MXT4 is also a very good oil. It would be interesting to see how redlines new motorcycle specific 10w-40 and Torcos T-4MXR 15w-40 stack up. I'm currently in the proccess of testing the torco oil and may try the redline in my 06 YZ250F after that. My oil analysis isn't that comprehensive, but none the less informative. I'm waiting to hear back from another rider that is testing the Mobil Delvac super 1300 15w-40. For the price, $9/gallon, that would be another good oil if it tests well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now