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G#$%D$%& chain roller (DR650)

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http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.com/images/BHM816.gif

I went with a set screw (8mm x 1.25mm thread x 12mm long). I don't know if a longer set screw will work. The 12mm length didn't seem to bottom out, though. Don't forget Loctite!!

I didn't want to use the bolt from the rear footpeg mount (pictured above) because it sticks out. I didn't hear the chain hit the set screw -- it would have had to hit the bolt hole since the set screw is fully flush with the opening. It looks like the chain would miss it. Not by much, though, if a regular hex head bolt gets hit by the chain.

Sure, JB Weld would work (someone suggested filling the hole with some steel wool first). I like the 55-cent set screw so that a future owner (assuming I ever sell the bike!) could put the roller back on if they were so inclined.

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Sure, JB Weld would work (someone suggested filling the hole with some steel wool first). I like the 55-cent set screw so that a future owner (assuming I ever sell the bike!) could put the roller back on if they were so inclined.

That suggestion was for filling the hole in the frame AFTER the roller has been ripped out, not for filling the threaded hole before the roller has been ripped out.

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That suggestion was for filling the hole in the frame AFTER the roller has been ripped out, not for filling the threaded hole before the roller has been ripped out.

To clarify, I think JB weld is an OK idea even if the roller isn't ripped out, if you aren't worried about changing it back in the future. I could also see grinding down the bolt hole and using JB weld if you were worried about (or had evidence of) the chain hitting the bolt hole itself.

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I removed my '99's roller tonight and replaced it with the set screw with thread locker as suggested in this thread. Thanks, folks!

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after reading the other thread here, I removed from both of my DR's... Very interesting: I have a '97 model with 3K miles and the upper roller showed practically no wear at all when I took it off. But get this: I pull the one from the 2002 model, which has just under 2K miles on it, and the thinking was deeply grooved and rough. I think its because the guy who had this bike before lived near the coast, and when I bought the bike it had been sitting in a garage for about a year without even being started [that's a crime] and the chain at first looked dirty, but then riding it i could tell it had some 'frozen' sections... very rough. so rough I ordered a new X ring, but then with a good cleaning and then several applications of the dupont teflon product it started coming around.

Anyway, this is all to say mileage probably has nothing to do with the stress on that guy. other factors do.

Yank it and lose nothing. Leave it and take a huge chance

I read the posts about the danger of the upper chain roller abandoning ship, but I thought, "well mine seems ok. What are these guys doing to have their chain rollers hate them so?" Well now I know...Nothing. I was heading home from a weekend trip to western Arkansas, when I noticed that my upper chain roller had gone AWOL. Crap, it also took some of the frame with it.

So a warning to the rest of you non-believers. Remove the roller before you are in the middle of nowhere wondering how much that part of your frame is critical to your loaded bike not cracking in two.

And for those who have already dealt wioth this scourge. What did you do to fix the hole in your frame? Anybody try and get Suzuki to fix it? My bike is still in warranty.

You have been warned.

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max i think i'll go with your button-head idea, and some silicon sealant around the collar to keep gunk out of there

update/EDIT: well, i could not find a button-head anywhere. I did find a very short bolt that had a very shallow head. Tried that and moved the chain around quite a bit and I'm not even sure a buttonhead would not get whacked. That mount tab in the frame is sticking out enough to be in the line of fire all by itself. I just put silicone gasket maker lump in the hole with a little visible around the edges so the next owner can get it out pretty easy.

Or simply put some JB weld in the hole to blank it off?

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5500 miles on my '03. The roller is not only intact, but shows virtually little wear (considering some people had it already broken off or significant wear after only a couple hundy miles. Interesting. I guess I'll still remove mine.

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5500 miles on my '03. The roller is not only intact, but shows virtually little wear (considering some people had it already broken off or significant wear after only a couple hundy miles. Interesting. I guess I'll still remove mine.

Hey Geezer;

Have you had your DR in the dirt ?

I put the new improved roller on from jessie and it has not one mark on it.

But I am yet to get into and real offroad action.....

I look at it every day wondering if I should make a Christmas tree whoredament out of it.......

As of late it has been work,eat,sleep,repeat.......

Last thing I want is to get that roller sucked into the engine and blow a hole in it like this fella....

http://209.128.121.103/temp/2.jpg

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My bike is lowered, and I suspect that would increase the chance of over-stressing the roller.

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My bike is lowered, and I suspect that would increase the chance of over-stressing the roller.

+1 My bike was lowered when I got it. The upper roller was a cool bearinged type unit installed by the previous owner... it was cut into 3 pieces where the chain had worn right down to the bearing races! :thumbsup:

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I just pulled the upper roller - well worn grooves after only 1,900 or so. I've put in a Set Screw from Lowe's, 8mm X 10mm slathered in loctite.

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mine broke out the frame where it was mounted.

put some expander foam in the frame and let that dry then sealed with dr glue blake rtv silicone!

works fine although i still have to fix the darn case that i broke on the sheetiron. too many bikes to keep running!!!!!

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Hey DoubleD,

Well, I thought I was in dirt . . . :thumbsup: Maybe I'm not the rider I thought. I don't get both wheels off the ground too much, but I certainly hit enough rough spots to rigorously bounce both wheels.

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Ok, I would like your input on fixing the hole where the chain roller used to be. The Suzuki Dealership says that they will replace my frame under warranty. A local welder, very reputable and reliable, says he can put a patch on the hole if I remove the shock so that he can get access. I am hesitant to have anyone completely tear my bike apart and reassemble it with a new frame, but then again, geting a new frame for free seems like a good deal. What do you think...?

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Maybe you and the dealer could work a deal where you kept the bike with the holey frame and got $X00 for your trouble. Youno how things are done in Texas, something like what Suzuki might call a warrenty scan except it would be fair. Mine has the very same hole and I'm not loosing sleep but the welder sounds good.

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Ok, The Suzuki Dealership says that they will replace my frame under warranty. A local welder, very reputable and reliable, says he can put a patch on the hole if I remove the shock so that he can get access.

How much do you trust this particular dealer? I understand your reluctance to have the bike torn down, but if the dealer is reputable, that should be no big deal -- the major pieces would be moved (fork/front tire, engine, etc.). Then it's still under warranty (minus the roller!).

The problem with the weld option IS the warranty -- you have to pay for it (including tear-down/re-assembly) and it will likely void your warranty (that may not be a big deal for you, though). You'd have to take off the tank in addition to the shock (or, you SHOULD, to be safe), plus the carb and make sure there's no gas, grease, or anything else that could catch fire/explode. On the plus side, the welder may make that point stronger than stock. If you have the tools for the rear shock, don't care about the warranty, and have the time, I'd go with this option IF you don't trust your dealership.

If possible, though, find a good dealer and get the frame replaced. There's got to be at least ONE good one near you (I would hope!).

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I just pulled the upper roller - well worn grooves after only 1,900 or so. I've put in a Set Screw from Lowe's, 8mm X 10mm slathered in loctite.

Ok I'm new to this information. Sorry if I missed something. I have an 06 DR650, 2K miles on it, the upper chain guide loosens and breaks off? Why not pull the screws and put blue lock tite on them and reinstall? I can't believe Suz. hasn't published a warning. What if this were to happen at freeway speeds with someone on the back? Yikes, a tank slapping mess if the rear locked up in a turn after hiting a bump! I can see the lawyers doing lazy circles over this one! :)

Rp

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Remove the upper roller altogether.

There is a serious chance you will break the upper roller out of the frame one day. Really.

It happened to many before.

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Ok I'm new to this information. Sorry if I missed something. I have an 06 DR650, 2K miles on it, the upper chain guide loosens and breaks off? Why not pull the screws and put blue lock tite on them and reinstall? I can't believe Suz. hasn't published a warning. What if this were to happen at freeway speeds with someone on the back? Yikes, a tank slapping mess if the rear locked up in a turn after hiting a bump! I can see the lawyers doing lazy circles over this one! :)

Rp

I just called the Suz. dealer and reported this as potential issue. They have no alerts from Suz, Japan, and no reported problems from other customers.

The conclusion we came to after discussing the problem, is the chain may not be properly kept in adjustment.

The function of upper guide is to maintain the chain tension when the shock is fully compressed. When the shock gets compressed and the chain is loose enough to allow the chain to flip to the top side of the roller/upper chain guide, then, when the shock rebounds the chain is caught on the wrong side of the roller ripping it down toward the swing arm.

I just looked at mine, 2K miles with most of those being street with two riders, zero wear.

I think by removing the guide you run the risk of the chain coming off the rear sprocket. It might be better to add a wider roller or spacer to further trap the chain below the roller when the shock is compressed. Perhaps up the preload or a heavier spring.

Mine is staying on, but my chain tension is being watched alot more carefully and I may add a spacer between the bolt and the roller.

Rp

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Ok I'm new to this information. Sorry if I missed something. I have an 06 DR650, 2K miles on it, the upper chain guide loosens and breaks off? Why not pull the screws and put blue lock tite on them and reinstall? I can't believe Suz. hasn't published a warning. What if this were to happen at freeway speeds with someone on the back? Yikes, a tank slapping mess if the rear locked up in a turn after hiting a bump! I can see the lawyers doing lazy circles over this one! :)

Rp

The chain roller is supposed to be just a travel limiter for the chain slop. Unfortunately the placement of the roller on the DR650 causes it to be under engine torque loads at certain rear suspension positions (compressed). It also takes a fair amount of abuse under decel conditions with all the chain slop at the top and the suspension compressed. (impact) Nobody in the forum, so far, has reported chain damage to the bottom of the air box, or any other part of the bike, by removing this roller and it's bolt. However, there are many documented reports of this roller, and it's threaded mounting boss, being ripped out of the frame leaving a gaping hole. The set screw is used to plug the hole and not have the head of a normal hex or allen head screw in the chain path. I guess if the thing broke off and happened to jam into the countershaft sprocket cover, blowing the plastic cover to pieces, and then continued on to wedge between the engine crankcase and the sprocket you could experience the rear end lock you described but I've yet to hear of it occuring. Your best, and safest, bet is to remove it before you become "there's always a first time" man. :eek:

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