Trans Oil Drain Bolt Problem

Attempted to change the oil in both sides today. Engine side went fine.

When I attempted to put the transmission oil drain bolt back in, something weird happened. I started just fine and when it was about 2/3 of the way in, it stopped. I took it out and put it back in, same thing happened. I applied a little force and it didn't move. Removed it and the first thread was flattened. It is like it started to cross thread after it was already over half way in. Last oil change went fine and it came out without a problem initially.

So, I am going to go pick up a new bolt tomorrow and give it a try. Something tells me that I will encounter the same problem.

Any thoughts on what caused this or what I should do about it? The hole is very deep so I don't think I can run a tap through it.

Help!

Same thing happened to me, I actualy ran a die over the bolt but not a tap into the threads, this was the 3rd oil change on a new 07 (I change oil A LOT)

I said screw it and ran it all the way in, it doesn't leak, I may have to put a heli-coil in it some day, but not today.

Dunno what's going on in there, usualy on my other bikes I can hand thread the thing all the way in till it seats, then a little snug with the ratchet and we're good.

:thumbsup:

So far, I've noticed on at least two 450X's that the threads did not quite line up. The threads for the tranny drain bolt are on the other case piece, it appears that they are about 1 or 2 mm's off from the bolt hole on the left case. On mine, I cannot feed the bolt straight in, it has to go in at a very slight angle. I've found it to be much easier if I lean the bike to the right.

I have the same problem but no cross threading yet. I thread the bolt in by hand as far as it will go then snug it up with a socket. I have to fiddle with it sometimes to get it to thread straight.

I also have had trouble getting the bolt to start threading. Very tempting at times to force it but I know it will just screw the threads up. :thumbsup:

Glad to get the heads up on this, on the next oil change I will be sure to back the bolt in and out and wiggle it a few times before taking it out all out, making the threads seat. Then reinstalling always by hand first in counterclockwise to seat the first thread then clockwise all the way by hand until tight then lightly wrenched.

I have a great tip for you guys on this. I had the same trouble on my 450R. Some say its clutch material that settles into the threads like a sluice box when you drain the oil on a r model. Others say its an alignment problem from the outer case to the inner case when the oil is changed on a warm motor, who knows?? But the fix is easy. Buy a new drain bolt. Put it in a vise and use a dremel tool to cut a length wise groove up the shaft. Angle the groove off center into the shaft so it creates sharp edges on the threads. Now you have your own thread chaser that works. Buy a thread die to re-sharpen your new tap. I learned of this in the 450R area from other thumper members. Once I drained the oil, I ran my home made chase in finger tight until it stopped, than turned it one full turn and removed it. Than run your chase thru your die to clean it. Re-install the home made tap finger tight until it stops and again only turn it one turn, remove it and re-clean the tap with the die. Continue this untill you can run the tap all the way in with only your fingers. It worked great me, and saved the trouble and expense of having to split the case.

Buy a new drain bolt. Put it in a vise and use a dremel tool to cut a length wise groove up the shaft. Angle the groove off center into the shaft so it creates sharp edges on the threads. Now you have your own thread chaser that works.

Is this really a bright ieda? Cutting threads with the bolt so that shavings can be pushed into the tranny case?

I think the real problem is some people are over tightening the bolt upon reinstallation which distorts the threads in the case. So it seems like it wants to cross thread when you put the bolt in because the thread pitches no longer match. Isn't going to hurt a steel bolt, just the aluminum case. Use a new copper washer and follow the torque specs.

It surprises me that Honda would use such a seeming weak drain plug system almost like an after thought. I love this bike but when I think so far how much these seemingly simple systems were designed better on my old DRZ, it make me wonder if Honda manufacturing is polarized between excellent core engineering and "mickey-mouse" auxiliary equipment to support it."

I think another idea might be to clean the threads out after draining the oil is with a cotton swab before re-installing the bolt. All Honda would have had to do is install a threaded steel sleeve for a stainless drain bolt. As small as it is compared to other drainbolt systems the weight would have been negligible, but I think willful poor auxiliary engineering for mass cost saving was the reason at the expense of their customers.

You can say the same about cheap cast triple trees, cast clutch covers, cast foot pegs, cast throttle housings and perches. All engineered to provide adaquate reliability and still be affordable. All the little details to make something slightly better costs money and has to be passed on to us.

I personally think $7400 MSRP for a single cylinder dirt bike is extremely high. Considering what it consists of, I don't see why a 450X should cost more than $5000 MSRP, but I'd probably stick to the street if it were $9000 just so we could have slightly better components off the showroom floor.

You can say the same about cheap cast triple trees, cast clutch covers, cast foot pegs, cast throttle housings and perches. All engineered to provide adaquate reliability and still be affordable. All the little details to make something slightly better costs money and has to be passed on to us.

I personally think $7400 MSRP for a single cylinder dirt bike is extremely high. Considering what it consists of, I don't see why a 450X should cost more than $5000 MSRP, but I'd probably stick to the street if it were $9000 just so we could have slightly better components off the showroom floor.

The market dictates retail pricing and Honda like every other manufacturer is going to price as high as people will pay. I agree $7K for a dirt bike is outrageous but the price we have to pay for a quality ride.:thumbsup:

Hmmm....

Seems more like that some aren't properly inserting the bolt... once it's in, they use more force than necessary and the bolt (already started, and already cross threaded) goes in cock-eyed. :bonk: .... then, crank it in with a wrench. :busted:

What part of this isn't correct?!

That bolt takes a long socket or extension, and your hand to insert correctly. A little upward and forward pressure on the bolt head (and I mean... A LITTLE!) via the socket/extension and it'll go in everytime. :thumbsup:

From my '03 450R... to this 450X... it's the same damn thing. Just takes a little finess. No finess... and you have problems! Plus, you should all know not to use influence on a case bolt or bolt threaded into the case of a bike!! :cheers: Why not use an airgun?! :thumbsup:

^^ :thumbsup: I found out the hard way that using ANY force at all on case bolts is a baaaaad idea. Now I just finger thread them and then snug up with a hand wrench or a 1/4 in ratchet if I can't get the wrench in there.Personally I would like to see a stainless plug and treaded insert.

As far as the price of bikes, dirtbikes falls into the "leisure and recreational" market, which has nothing at all to do with supply and demand. It is all about how much money people who can afford to play on their toys are willing to pay. It's a delicate balance between charging as much as they can and still making enough sales. If enough people are willing to pay 8 grand for a bike why lower the price?I used to work at an RV dealer and it was unreal. 70 000 dollars for a trailer that was made of tin,styrofoam and 2x2 lumber. And people would gladly pay it. And don't even get me started on the accessories. We had one lawnchair in the store that was 300 bucks! And people would shell out the cash without even blinking.

^^ :thumbsup: I found out the hard way that using ANY force at all on case bolts is a baaaaad idea. Now I just finger thread them and then snug up with a hand wrench or a 1/4 in ratchet if I can't get the wrench in there.Personally I would like to see a stainless plug and treaded insert.

As far as the price of bikes, dirtbikes falls into the "leisure and recreational" market, which has nothing at all to do with supply and demand. It is all about how much money people who can afford to play on their toys are willing to pay. It's a delicate balance between charging as much as they can and still making enough sales. If enough people are willing to pay 8 grand for a bike why lower the price?I used to work at an RV dealer and it was unreal. 70 000 dollars for a trailer that was made of tin,styrofoam and 2x2 lumber. And people would gladly pay it. And don't even get me started on the accessories. We had one lawnchair in the store that was 300 bucks! And people would shell out the cash without even blinking.

that's why americans are in debt up to their eyeballs:thumbsup:

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