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Removing Clutch Cover to Drain Trans.

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Many of you have had a problem with the transmission drain bolt becoming cross threaded/stripped. I recently had a problem with this. Here is the thread where it was discussed.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=523131

I was able to get the bolt in and tight. My concern is that on the next oil change, I may not be able to get the drain bolt back in.

My question for all of you is: Do you see any reason why I could not/should not remove the clutch cover to drain the transmission side?

Obviously it would be a little messy and would cost me an additional $5-$6 for a clutch cover gasket. This might be a better trade off than paying MANY hundreds of dollars to split the case and replace an entire case half. I know it might not drain all of the oil from the very bottom of the trans either. I was thinking it might just be a safer way to go. The 6 bolts that hold the clutch cover on do not have the tendency to strip or cross thread if replaced properly and not overtightened. For those who want to reply by saying "the drain bolt wont strip or cross thread if replaced properly", please don't. That would be a correct statement, but it is too late for that, what is done is done. I am quite a competent mechanic and I guess I simply screwed this one up, it happens. By reading the discussion regarding this topic, I don't feel too stupid because it has happened to many respected people on here. I think it could have been a little better engineered by Honda. I just hope to keep the thread on topic. Thanks.

Thoughts???

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Its seems like none of these issues are discussed without a little irony. I went outside to take a look at my clutch cover to get an idea of what your talking about and low and behold my tranny drain bolt is leaking a little although tight.:thumbsup:

Anyway looking at the clutch cover it seems that its lowest point is even lower then the drain bolt so I don't see a problem with your idea, however if I were to resort to doing that it would be only once as I would figure out a way to install my own drain plug into the lower part of the clutch cover. There are drain bolt kits you can buy that requires a hole to be drilled to install a secure sleeve and magnetized plug. There seems to be so little room in the OEM drain plug area I would be worried to drill and tap to the next larger size, not to mention the concern of filings falling inside although aluminum is fairly soft.

I can promise you one thing, if I am forced to resort to something like this I will also install a sight glass for tranny oil level hight.

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Its seems like none of these issues are discussed without a little irony. I went outside to take a look at my clutch cover to get an idea of what your talking about and low and behold my tranny drain bolt is leaking a little although tight.:thumbsup:

Try Replacing the washer on the bolt.

Anyway looking at the clutch cover it seems that its lowest point is even lower then the drain bolt so I don't see a problem with your idea, however if I were to resort to doing that it would be only once as I would figure out a way to install my own drain plug into the lower part of the clutch cover. There are drain bolt kits you can buy that requires a hole to be drilled to install a secure sleeve and magnetized plug. There seems to be so little room in the OEM drain plug area I would be worried to drill and tap to the next larger size, not to mention the concern of filings falling inside although aluminum is fairly soft.

I can promise you one thing, if I am forced to resort to something like this I will also install a sight glass for tranny oil level hight.

Have you ever taken the clutch cover off? There is no room for what you are speaking of.

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Its seems like none of these issues are discussed without a little irony. I went outside to take a look at my clutch cover to get an idea of what your talking about and low and behold my tranny drain bolt is leaking a little although tight.:thumbsup:

Anyway looking at the clutch cover it seems that its lowest point is even lower then the drain bolt so I don't see a problem with your idea, however if I were to resort to doing that it would be only once as I would figure out a way to install my own drain plug into the lower part of the clutch cover. There are drain bolt kits you can buy that requires a hole to be drilled to install a secure sleeve and magnetized plug. There seems to be so little room in the OEM drain plug area I would be worried to drill and tap to the next larger size, not to mention the concern of filings falling inside although aluminum is fairly soft.

I can promise you one thing, if I am forced to resort to something like this I will also install a sight glass for tranny oil level hight.

Are you sure your not looking at the bolt for the level check??

The trans drain bolt is in the same side as the oil drain.

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Oh Yah, the drain bolt is larger, its the oil level bolts that leaking. Why does this not make me feel better?

Yes I have heard how close the OEM cover is to the clutch. I have some white metal rod specifically for torch braising aluminum or magnesium. So yes I would probubly try install a recess to accommodate a drain bolt insert. Might as well try as the OEM cover is destined for the trash anyway. Did I put that on my list!!

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Even if the hole is stripped it can be repaired without taking the cases down. You will have to remove the ignition (left) side case and heli-coil in new threads. Your local shop should be able to do it for you cheap especially if you bring it in ready to be done.

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Coobs got it... and at minimum how I'd start a repair.

What happens when you strip a bolt (or two) on the clutch over eventually?! :thumbsup: The more you remove it, the more prone you are to stripping it.

I dare ya to say you'd not make that mistake! hahaha... (just kiddin)....

Like Tat said... try a new washer. They recommend changing often anyway. What's the worst?? Put'er back in with some JB or silicone after spraying the threads with starting fluid or... some kind of brake cleaner. :thumbsup:

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if you cross thread your tranny bolt then you shouldnt be working on your own bike.

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Why not use the tranny overflow bolt or timing cover and lay the bike on its side with the fuel turned off?

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Why not use the tranny overflow bolt or timing cover and lay the bike on its side with the fuel turned off?

timing side would be motor oil and while you are giving out great ideas why didnt you mention doing this and just removing the filler plug

Tire%20change%20number%20two.jpg

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if you cross thread your tranny bolt then you shouldnt be working on your own bike.

Not funny Zendoggie, as i stripped mine accidentally, and i'm a friggin' mechanic. Sweatin' bullets I was !:thumbsup:

This bolt goes through two cases prior to the thread boss, so i do feel that Honda made a poor engineering design in this respect. Possibly there was no alternate choice. I have always used the MicroTorque wrench on my drain bolts, fore and aft, and have yet to see a crush washer start to crush. Two years now.

I have an easy fix for the case thread problem.

Purchase the longest thread clean-up tap you can find, grease it up, and get after it. Frequently remove tap, clean and re-grease, followed by new bolt and crush washer. Job complete. tighten only to 20nm from this point on.

paul

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if you cross thread your tranny bolt then you shouldnt be working on your own bike.

Do you feel good about yourself now big shot? Does it feel good to talk down to what you perceive to be the less fortunate people of the world? I try not to belittle people in such a manner so I will have to find out how it feels from a big man like you.

I case you missed the part of my post about these types of comments, let me refresh your memory, "For those who want to reply by saying "the drain bolt wont strip or cross thread if replaced properly", please don't. That would be a correct statement, but it is too late for that, what is done is done. I am quite a competent mechanic and I guess I simply screwed this one up, it happens."

When you get secure with yourself as a person, you too will be able to admit when you make a mistake and ask for help in fixing it. The people who are on this site for the right reasons do not think you are as cool as you think you are. In fact, you look quite silly posting trash like this. There is a thread in this forum about cleaning up the 450x forum, you should read it. The rest of us 450x riders do not want to be known for these types of things, please stop making us guilty by association.

I could go into how skilled I am with tools, but people like you do not respond to reason. I could tell you about all of the bikes I have owned and wrenched on. I could tell you about all of the motors I have built for my jeeps, and drag car. I could tell you about how I am typing this from inside the home I built from the ground up on my property. I guess I could write about all the time I have spent with tools in my hands, but it would be pointless, you are not into learning about people, just attacking them.

Thanks for your input on the subject of my trans drain bolt, you have really contributed to the thread, this forum, and TT as a whole.

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Good posts, Paul and Joey. Thanks! When I strip mine out I'll now know how to fix it. I guess my idea of heli-coiling is no good?

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Wow! This was a great post, just in time For my first oil & tranny oil change. I just brought home a new 06 450X last Friday. I upgraded from a 250X. Well when I was reinstalling the tranny drain bolt , the bolt Stop threading half way in. When I got down closer to look at it I noticed that it was going in at a slight angle. So I struggled to get it out by hand. I tried to start it a few more times, finally I got it to catch correctly and threaded it all the way in by hand.

If I wouldn't have read this post over the last few days , I probably Would have thrown the T wrench on and cranked it down.:thumbsup: Also, this is a poor Honda engineer design problem that they need to correct.

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After I finally pull the threads on my tranny bolt, I will either put in a solid insert or helicoil the treads. When I used to have a tough bolt to start I would often grind a slight taper on it and then chase it a few times with a die to take the burrs off. Maybe even hit it a few times with stainless grinding wheel to buff it smooth on the tip as to not gaul the

soft aluminum threads. I haven't tried this on mine but I have a tough time getting the bolt started. This is definitely a minor issue on this bike as I grew up in a bike dealership wrenching and 25 years owning a Machine shop. I don't care who, you are you could strip this bolt out.:thumbsup:

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if you cross thread your tranny bolt then you shouldnt be working on your own bike.

Yeah Zen, we should just throw it out along with the top mount bolt on the triple clamp. Totally unnecessary weight.

Just a hint kid, I would suggest you remain quiet and refrain from bagging on anybody else's wrenching ability until a majority of folks on here forget about your............suggestion...............regarding the triple clamp bolt.

Say...........a year or two.

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Unfortunately guys, I don't think a helicoil or Time-Sert insert will work on this bolt. The bolt is 65mm long and it passes through the left side case and then threads into the right side case. So, using one of the inserts I mentioned above will not work. There is not enough material on the wall of the left case where it goes in, to secure one of the inserts and then instal a short bolt either. I also do not think you would be able to tap the hole to the next size up. Because it passes through the two cases, if you went with a larger diameter bolt (the original is 8mm), you would not be able to get it through the entry hole in the left case. So, please be careful when you are reinserting this bolt. Get it to thread properly and then DO NOT over tighten it. If you do have a problem, be sure to follow Paul Turners advice above and fix it before it really gets messed up.

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