what to do on WR?


what can I do to make my WR400F better ? / 2000 / Euro-version / enduro driving only / all weather / low altitude

I replace exhauster ( HIGASHI do you know it, is it O.K.?) What next?

How I understand, there is several things to do.

1.YZ Timing,

2.Airbox Lid

3.Throttle stop (trimmed)



Could you confirm it.If yes, then I know how to do timing, airbox and trottle but I am not sure about jetting.There was so many discussion and I am little bit confused.

Some experienced drivers told me that enduro bikes should be less aggressive then cross bikes, they should work smoothly. So I do not want change my bike in to cross bike, but I also want more power and fix low-mid stumble/hesitation problem.

I also thinking to change suspensions ( with Öhlins ). Is it good idea?

and finally what is WR426 cross or enduro bike and if I by WR426 what happens with all this adjusting on WR-s?

I hope you will understand me.

I use information from James, Brian,Taffy,mcarp, and other

thanks to all

from now on your call sign is ZED ok?

YZ timing is 8 steps forward & 2 back

wr426 will be an enduro machine. very good one

pipe is unknown to me

standard suspension is very very good for 80kg rider. how many KG do you weigh?

Ohlins is for very rich people. no need for this , so you must forget it.

jetting will be 172-178MJ & 48/50 pilot jet

low speed hesitation we all have

yz timing is the best

airbox lid off is good

throttle slid must touch top of carb for 100% pull OK?

if your bike runs Very Good do not worry about the needle. this is very hard to understand for all but one or two people.



Your're on track with the suggested modifications. Jetting is really the toughest thing to get right. Clark and James Dean have spent countless hours and beers over the subject.

Since you ride in different weather conditions, you may need to make several jetting adjustments during the year. I would try th 48 pilot, screw about 1/ 1/2- 1 4/4 out, 170-175 MJ. 168 may work well too when really hot and adjust your fuel screw in slightly. Our resident expert James Dean likes the 48PJ and 100 air jet combo, with needles under experiemntation daily :D

As far as the needle, well, I'm not the expert :D But I can tell you by experimenting with different clips positions and needles on my '00 WR YZ timed, YZ exhaust that the low-end hesitation is gone. It's not totally dialed in yet and will need changed when the snow starts falling.

Read some past posts and try to learn the techniques for selecting the needle. When you do, tell us! :D

Also pay attention to stuff like drag: Keep the chain clean and lubed and properly tensioned, grease wheelbearings. Pay attention to suspension settings so you can go faster without power.

I think the biggest power performance enhancers for this bike are in order: Correct jetting, YZ timing, jetting, proper gearing, fresh rear tire, exhaust, jetting, airbox lid, better air-filter. Did I mention jetting? :)

Here's some other thoughts. This bike is real stable and not very agile. By altering a few things you may be able to ride faster without power increased. I have (and many other folks on the forum) a YZ seat/tank, raised the forks 10mm, removed a chain link, and set the suspension sag properly--all make the bike steer way better. Although I don't know how many have removed a link in the chain, I found it makes a big difference in being able to turn quickly. Also handlebar choice is critical. Now take the leftover cash that the Ohlins cost and buy a Scotts Steering Damper!

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