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Which Oil Do You Use?

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doesn't really matter- just change it often.

personally i feel better about having clean $3.00 a qt. dino

than $8.00 syn. thats been in the bike for 10 hours riding time.

i change mine after every race weekend and my 4 strokes see about an hour of actual running time each. CRF150 and TTR125

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What is boils down to is this, ask youself.....you have a choice of two second hand bikes, one has been run on, say Rock Oil Synthetic 10/30 MX oil, the other has been run on Shell Rotella an oil so technically old they put it as first fill in low revving '60's Land Rover's diesels...which bike would you buy.....?

i would love to see an oil analysis on the 10w-30 mx oil you use after 2 hrs in a mx bike. through oil analysis it has been proven that the diesel oils hold up a lot better than some of the moto specific oils. especially the 10w-30/10w-40 oils. i would much rather change my oil every 4 hrs of riding with a oil that stays in spec at least close to that.

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i run Amalie X-treme 4T SG Motorcycle Oil , isn`t there anyone more than me who has tried this oil??

I`ll think it works nice!:thumbsup:

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i would love to see an oil analysis on the 10w-30 mx oil you use after 2 hrs in a mx bike. through oil analysis it has been proven that the diesel oils hold up a lot better than some of the moto specific oils. especially the 10w-30/10w-40 oils. i would much rather change my oil every 4 hrs of riding with a oil that stays in spec at least close to that.

That analysis of a premium hi-po 4 stroke bike oil v diesel multigrade would be would be real interesting to read, well for me it would be :thumbsup:

Where do I find that analysis Ydogfly?

cheers

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That analysis of a premium hi-po 4 stroke bike oil v diesel multigrade would be would be real interesting to read, well for me it would be :thumbsup:

Where do I find that analysis Ydogfly?

cheers

Lots of info at BITOG :thumbsup:

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ok after reading all this....I went with the rotella T 15w-40.

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Maxima rules. I don't buy anything at Wal-Mart. Just doesn't seem fair to do that to a nice Yamaha motocross bike.

:busted:

Would you feed your kids McDonalds? (happy meal, yeah, if you like diarrhea)

:bonk:

I agree "F" Wal-Mart

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I run Amsoil 0W-40 full synthetic in my WR. I like it more that the Yamalube 20W-40 I was using. My bike shifts way easier than with the yamalube and I can pick it up at the local Canadian Tire for less than $10 a litre. I just have to be sure to change it often, I can tell when it needs to be changed when I shift from 1st to 2nd and get stuck in neutral.

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ok guys im from australia and have a few problems, the costs of oil here is around $12 - 14 per litre, which makes oil changes very expensive.

i would like to be able to reduce my cost so i can change oil as frequently as possible.

i have been able to source from an oil distributor Mobil Extra 4T Semi Synthetic 10W40, from this source it will cost around $9 per litre saving me a bit in the long run.

i now plan to change oil every third ride, will this oil and frequency be good enough, or should i source a cheaper brand over here and change more frequently?? thanks in advance

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I have a case of Amsoil MCF 10W40 sitting here ready to try.

I'll find out tomarrow:ride:

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On another note, SUnruh (and others) mentioned in other posts that our bikes are not to use "Energy Conserving II" oils. I have never seen anything on oil bottles (in the USA) other than "Energy Conserving" (without the "II").

So, being the daredevil that I am, I bought some Castrol 5w-30 "Energy Conserving" oil and put it in my kid's TT-R50 and TT-R90. I've done about 3 or 4 oil changes on the TT-R50 and the auto clutch is slipping horribly..........NOT! That clutch grips as solid as with the original Yamalube. The TT-R90 is new to us so I don't have any data to support that one yet, but so far so good and I don't expect any issues.

I'm sold on auto oils.

I think that the gist of this thread is that nobody wants to pay for hype. I sure don't. I have other things I'd rather spend my money on, not some overpriced oil that has a "motorcyle" label and that has been scientifically proven through analyses to be WORSE than some car/diesel oils.

I also think that the proof is in the users who support these oils. If indeed, they didn't work, this thread would be a moot point and all would be in agreement. But the fact that veteran riders have been using car/diesel oils instead of "motorcycle specific" oil for years with engine rebuilds on par with motorcycle oils is proof enough for me. These guys would be the first to say "man, these car/diesel oils are not worth it, my rebuilds are half what they used to be with motorcycle oils." But they're not saying that. And they're also not complaining of clutch slippage.

I looked at the 2004 Yamaha Service/Owner's manual for my YZ250F, section 3-14, and it says that you can use "20w-40, 10w-30, or 15w-50 SG type motor oil (non-friction modified, i.e. Energy Conserving II)." So, even Yamaha is saying you can use motor oils, not specifically "motorcycle" oils. It also says that this is for US and Canada and does not say that you can't use "CD" (diesel engine) oils for US and Canada. It DOES, however, say that EXCEPT for USA and Canada, specifically, that you should NOT use "CD" oils. So, what I get from it is that diesel oils in other parts of the world have additives that could cause clutch slippage. This, apparently is the "Energy Conserving II" variety.

Like others have said, the key is to change your oil and oil filter when it needs it. Keep your air filter oiled and clean, and have fun!

Karl

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