Ty tank troubles, need advice!

Ok, finally got semi caught up on the honey-do's enough to put my new Ty tank on last night. Let me preface this by saying I am a professional aircraft mechanic (so its not lack of ability here!).

I was overlooking the poor quality of the molding (tons of air bubbles, razor trimmed seams, etc.) and going ahead with the install.

I got to the point Clark Mason warned us all about...mounting the auxillary petcocks. Let me say, they felt cross threaded right from the start. I dont know if they were intentionally designed for an interference fit to stop leakage, but they certainly dont screw in well at all. If I had a tap and die set that size I would have chased the threads before going any further.

Anyway, I got only about 2 to 3 threads in (very gently, easing them back and forth as if cutting threads) and decided the angle of the barb fitting was wrong on each one of them, tried to gently reposition both of them and the brass inserts started spinning in the plastic!!! Im not real impressed with the quality of this tank to say the least.

I went ahead with a dry install to see if I even wanted to request a replacement from Montclair Yamaha.

Once it was all installed, I realized there is only one way to reach my choke button. Get way down low on one knee, hold tongue just right, feel around all the plumbing on the carb till you feel the choke button with the tip of your middle finger, try to get the choke knob out with that finger tip (using no leverage). Im at about a 50% success rate on getting the choke to stay out. Then resetting the knob will take the same drill of reaching around with same middle finger trying to reset the choke knob.

There has to be a better way!! I will say in defense of the tank, it fits awesome. Its super skinny, holds it weight low, and looks really trick on the bike. It causes absolutely no puckering of the seat either.

I would really like to make this tank work. Does anyone know of a remote choke assembly to make this work better? Something similar to the remote hot start button. I know Clark said he doesnt use his choke to start his bike, but I always use mine.

If I cant make this Ty tank work out, what tank do you guys recommend? I read the archives about the Clarke being skinnier than the IMS and better fitting, but it appears in all the pictures that the Clarke causes a steeper rise in the front of the IMS seat. This seems to me to be counter productive to the tank swap in the first place. All the pics of the IMS tank appear flatter with no seat puckering. I can deal with the petcock on the wrong side if I can slide further up on the front of the tank (as it appears with the IMS).

I need some ideas pretty quick so I know what to tell Montclair to send me as a replacement... please, help me out with some feedback here guys.

Vincent, First- look at my post of today regarding my starting problem. As the problem and solution develop, it may address the remote hot start issue. Next, there is a previous post on the Ty-Davis tank, if you haven't read it (although from your post I think you did read it) it may be helpfull.

I just put the Ty Davis tank and remote hot start on my bike and rode for 5 days. As you can see from my post, I had a starting problem. Also, I had to send my first Ty Davis tank back because the shrouds did not match up. Montclair Yamaha was very cool and gave me another tank no problems, even checked the new shroud mounts before sending it too me.

I thought the tank was great. I did not see any quality problems. Very narrow, much more so than the other tanks. Fit snug, just as good as the stock YZ tank.

I was able to start without the choke on with minimal effort. It's the hot start that may be an issue. But I still need to figure out. Watch the other post as the smart guys give me guidence.

Bottom line, I'm going to try to make this tank work. But if you go with another brand, Clarke and IMS are both good but I like the Clarke a little better. There are also a number of other posts about tanks. You may need to look back a couple of months.

Hope this helps.


[This message has been edited by Harold in So Cal (edited 10-17-2000).]

I have an idea for the choke and hot start buttons. First, there is the Terrycable remote hot start from Ty as well. My alternative is to make a small clamp that grabs the frame by the carb, and anchor a pivot lever there, like a teeter totter. Push the lever in = pull the choke out. Similar for the hot start. Hopefully, dimensionally it would work out some how. I am very interested in the Ty tank but have to shake the dice somewhat if I order it. I'm in Canada so there's added border hassle if there's any return or exchange activities.


I just returned from riding up a Mammoth Ca. and started my bike in the morning with the temperature at 20 deg F without using the choke. I had to prim with wacks on the throttle using the accelerator pump but got the drill down. The next morning it was warmer about 29 deg F and got it going with about 5 kicks. In normal temps 40 to 70 deg F I give it two wacks on the throttle and start it usually in one kick.

I feel the Ty tank is outstanding and a true performance enhancment.

My choke will not stay on at all with the Ty Tank.

99 WR 420


I have run the Clark tank with YZ seat for almost two years. I am happy with the slim feeling and although not as low as the TY tank lower fuel storage. Access to choke/hot start a definite plus. I recomend the Dry break top because it lowers the overall height of the tank between the top of the seat and the bars. Good Luck

<If I cant make this Ty tank work out, what tank do you guys recommend?>

Hey bro, I have an IMS 3.3 on my 426 and the 3.7 on my sons YZ125. I'm completely happy with the fit on both bikes. In both instances the tanks went right on with no problems. I would like to point out the obvious though. Make sure you blow out the tank with air, as there were a lot of plastic shavings in both tanks.

Good Luck


MY IMS tank is for sale $50 if anybody is interested. After using Ty's tank I will not go back.



I'll take your tank!

Scott Hoge

Hey Vincent,

You need to look up a meat actuator you work with that goes by the nickname of tigger. He rides (a KLX 650, I think) pretty regularly and is a very laid back all-around good dude. If you see him, tell him Scott in Palmdale said hello. I hope to make it up to Sun Spot and do some riding there next spring. I'll keep you posted on how the schedule shakes out. Maybe we can hookup.



Well I think my tank troubles are over. I went to a local dealer yesterday and he had an Acerbis tank on the shelf. I took it out to my scoot for a dry fit and side by side comparison to the Ty tank. It fit extremely well, has two mounts, shrouds lined up, is very slender and I got it for the same price as the Ty tank.

Its got a real trick aluminum plate with filler cap on the dry brake filler area. If a person wanted to switch over to a dry brake or back and forth for that matter it would be quite painless.

Its slender as the Ty tank at the seat junction, causes no puckering of the seat, I can reach the choke and hot start readily too. It does have the large hump up high around the filler cap, as do all the other aftermarket tanks (except the Ty tank).

The petcocks threaded in no problem at all.

The tank has even been endorsed and given a Yamaha part number by GYT-R (Genuine Yamaha Technology-Racing).

All in all, I think its going to fit my needs better.

Now, Im gonna go out and try out my new Clark recommended jetting, new Scotts damper, new hand guards, etc, etc... Man, its good to be home!!! :)

By the way, thanks for the advice folks.

[This message has been edited by Vincent (edited 10-19-2000).]

I bought a used '99 YZ tank earlier this year. If fuel range isn't a problem, I would highly recommend it. Fit, finish, coloring are all perfect.left side petcock, no funky gas line routing, no high spot on the cap, easy to reach carb controls. And no bubbles, leaks, or anything weird. Used they can be had for about $100. AND YZ graphics will fit properly.

Problem is capacity is only 2.1 gal, so range is limited to 55-70 miles, maybe less if you're wasting gas in tipovers or mud. Doesn't bother me, but if I dual sported or was far (more than 30 miles) from the truck all the time, it wouldn't be enough. I carry a piece of clear tubing to siphon if I plan to venture too far.

Just my $.02, leave change if needed :)

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