DRZ Specialist in UK

Hi, after reading all about re-jetting etc. I just wondered whether any fellow UK TT'ers knew of a DRZ specialist in the UK that can sort my bike out? Doing it myself seems too daunting. :thumbsup:

What'd I'd like to get done is the re-jetting of the carb and a dyno set-up to ensure the bike was running properly. (I can cut the 3"x3" hole in the airbox myself).

So, does the UK have a specialist capable of jetting the DRZ properly? :thumbsup:

(N.B. - no, I don't fancy doing the re-jet myself - my bike is precious to me and I don't trust myself :busted: ).

As Clint Eastwood once said "A Man Has To Know His Limitations". Even though it is easy to do, if you are not comfortable doing it, you should not. Better would be an experieced DRZ'er to do it with you. You would gain not only the work bring done but some valuable experience. I am sure a few of the local chaps will chime in and offer a hand. Being so many have been done already, the jetting is fairly simple, so dyno runs are not needed to get it right.

Hi again, I am willing to to do it (I've done my Honda XR250), it's just that I can't find any guides comprehensive enough to guide a DRZ 'newbie' through it.

For example, the XR250's carb didn't need its needle repositioning - the carb stayed where it was and I just changed the main and pilot jets.

I assume the DRZ carb jetting is more complex, due to removal of carb being required? Plus, what's all this about needing an impact wrench to remove float-bowl screws? Just all sounds a little daunting.

Yes, I;ve read the 3x3 thread, and a few others, but wonder if there's a detailed 'walk-though' somewhere for a newbie?



There are a few posts with some pictures. To remove the float bowl screws, a hand impct tool is used. Not to expensive. It is simply a 'bar' with interchangeable tips. You select the correct tip for the screw. Have some one hold the carb, supporting it safely. Put the tip firmly in the screw, twist the tool slightly in the direction to loosen it, and strike the back of the tool with a hammer. If the screw head fails, a pair of vise grips can grab it an get it off. Some have re-slotted the head with a dremel tool and used the appropriate bit on the impact tool.

Spread out a clean towl on your work bench. Then is is a simple matter of removing the screws the rest of the way with a screwdriver then removing the jets, one at a time and replacing with the ones in the kit. Best kit to get is the James Dean. also very wise to get the allen bolt kit (to replace those pesky phillips heads that are so hard to remove) and a Kientech extended fuel screw.

Things to watch out are the little o-ring in the diaphram housing, and be very gentle (think) when removing the plastic needle holder.

I did the 3x3 and re-jet a couple of weeks ago. Not a difficult job. Took my time and thought out each step. The job went smooth and I was done in under an hour of working time. It can be done much faster, but like I said, I took my time. Get the JD kit, the extended fuel screw, and the float bowl screws. Read the instructions with the kit, they are pretty good. Check the posts on TT for jetting recommendations, any questions just ask. Some one will know what setup for your area and configuration. If you don't have a spare air filter get one. That way you will have a clean, freshly oiled filter ready to go and won't have to wait for a just washed filter to dry. I cut the 3x3 hole with a 3 inch putty knife, heat it up with a propane torch and let it melt through the plastic. Gives you a nice clean cut. once you have it all back together turn the petcock to prime for a couple of seconds, pull out the choke, and start the bike. Warm it up and confirm the pilot settinghttp://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327405 Then take the bike for a ride and enjoy the new smoother power.

It is a job that can be handled by almost anyone. Not as hard as assembling a model train set. The rewards are a bike that runs smoother and has more power at all throttle settings. Not to mention the satisfaction of a job well done.

You can do it!:thumbsup:

Thanks folks. When I dio it, I might do a video tutorial, like the one I did for fellow XR250 TT'ers.

Advice appreciated.


If your that worried about it, Depending on WHERE in the UK are you are, I'll help you out!

So...Where are you?


Just a little worried as my DRZ is my daily mode of transport - can't mess it up and have the bike out of action.

I'm in Sheffield, btw.

Just a little worried as my DRZ is my daily mode of transport - can't mess it up and have the bike out of action.

I'm in Sheffield, btw.

My bike is my only mode of transport, so i know where your comming from!

But honestly, its not hard to get the jetting done!:thumbsup:

Sorry but Sheffield is a bit far for a southern cost boy like myself.


This is the post i ued to do my re-jet. And i was very hungover when i did it!

You'll be fine :thumbsup:

Hi I just did the 3x3 mod on my "S" using the James Dean kit. Comes with illustrated instructions. The hardest part for me was removing and installling the carb :not alot of room to work with, but it wasn't that bad. Runs much better now.

I re-used the float bowl screws. I used a pair of Channel Locks and loosened the screws with that. No damage to screws and was easy. Good Luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks
    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki