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How do you get a KLX 250/300 to Wheelie?

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Hi Thumpertalk Lads,

I have just installed a 300cc kit & de-restricted a KLX250, as per the Kawasaki tech sheet. (Slide mods, airbox & jetting, & new piston & cylinder).

The bike I bought had only 5000 k's from new, and, though in perfect condition, inside & out, I thought that it was a lemon as it would only do 65MPH. ($$ payed accordingly though!).

I have read in the forums of KLX 300's having the ability of being able to wheelstand in 1st thru to 3rd gear.

My KLX won't even lift the front wheel off the deck in 1st without a hill / bump.... or using the clutch....IE nothing to do with accelerating fast by rapping on the throttle!

I figure the power has gone from around 15 to 25 HP with the mods....which is equivalent to the top speed increase from 65 to 80 MPH. (they don't get there real quick though!)

Compared to my 2007 XB12R Buell .. a 2 valve pushrod... lo-tech, no maintenance tractor motor...with a factory John Deere "race kit"....the KLX 250/300, with mods, has < 25% of of the HP, <50% of the the top speed (unlike KLX, Buell runs out of RPM),

same fuel consumption @ 60% of the Buells speed, with only 60% of the weight of the Buell, but is only 25% of the capacity?

My Buell will lift the front under hard acceleration in 2nd...don't know if I could pull third without a hill/bump.... or abusing the clutch.

Someone please tell me that my KLX is in need of help?

I have owned over 35 bikes, however the majority of small bore bikes (<500cc) have been two strokes.

The only bikes I have owned, that won't lift the front wheel, or out accelerate a standard 6 cylinder family car over the 1/8 mile is my hotted up KLX250/300, a Honda XL100 with a 150 kit and a Kawasaki KE100.

To the contrary YZ80's, 125's PE175's, GT250's, RD250's, XL500's etc... all get the front wheel in the air & blow away a standard V8.

I have ridden the KLX briefly offroad & appreciate the handling in the tight stuff is where this bike will excel.

To prove to myself that I have bought a bad example I test road a hotted up new (by Kawasaki Newcastle @ $9,000 AUD) KLX300. It seemed to be slightly more responsive with the pumper carby & race pipe.

Is the KLX the Volkswagon beetle of motorbikes?

Don't pull any punches with your replies as I am happy to either fix the bike, or, give it to my wife & daughter to ride, if I can't get it going proper.

Regards,

Gavin

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I've a few ride reports on here from Thailand. All the wheelies in my photos are done with the clutch in 1st or 2nd.

My KLX 250 has the same mods as yours: 300 barrel, pumper carb, exhaust, proper jetting, cams. To me its a dog. not what I was really hoping for as my first off road four stroke.

i was not expecting lightening acceleration but at least enough grunt to yank the front off the pavement. It works well as a trail bike but it does not put a smile on my face with torque or horsepower even by running 14/48 combination on the bike.

Maybe our bikes are related.

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Sounds like you need a less restrictive headpipe. My '99 KLX 300 w/free mods, Dyno-Jet kit, FSW header, 13t countershaft, had no problem pulling 3rd gears wheelies just cracking the throttle. Now I have a pumper carb & aftermarket muffler, still wheelies about the same, but power delivery is spot on.

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Don't worry - your bike is fixable. Mt KLX331 wheelies dangerously in 1st and 2nd, easily in 3rd and with a little technique in 4th - all with no clutch. Most of that came from the dynojet kit and free mods. I've heard that the 250 with a 300 jug/piston and the 250's improved head is roughly equivalent to the 331. It's not gonna beat a WR (especially with me riding it) but it's hanging right with them. Oh, one more thing - the PO dropped one tooth on the countrsprocket which probably adds a bit more to the loft. Stock CVK - no pumper carb, but I did have to clean the living !!!! out of it.

Dean

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Well, after having so many bikes, I'll assume that you know how to wheelie.

#1 - derestrict the choked down little guy. This is your cheapest fix. Planetklx.com for the free mods.

#2 - 13T CS sproket and 50T rear sproket. That's your second cheapest fix.

#3 - FSW head pipe. The stocker is a huge choked down POS.

#4 - AND THE BEST thing you can do to make it wheelie, without question....better than a big bore, better than exhaust, better than jetting kits, etc....is a properly tuned FCR 35mm carb. THAT will turn it into a wheelie machine. No problems, no clutch, no real trying - just twist and hold on.

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Thanks Bill_P for the tips.

RE: #3 & the FSW head pipe.

I did notice that the header pipe has a significantly smaller inside diameter than the cylinder head exhaust port.

Does the FSW pipe still help when using the standard silencer?

Why I ask is that the outlet on the standard silencer would seem to be smaller again - than the cylinder head exhaust port.

I am all ears!

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Thanks for your comments DJCHAN.

The bike you have... sounds like the bike I want!

Almost sounds like 2 stroke acceleration.

When you say "Stock CVK - no pumper carb, but I did have to clean the living !!!! out of it." are you referring to the motor, or, the CVK carby?

Regards,

Gavin

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Hi MaverickAUS,

I am sure you do love your KLX.

I have friends who love their CT110 posty bikes, Citroens etc.

I have also heard of people loving their Hyundai Excels, though not knowing them personally.

I guess it takes all kinds to make up the world!

I hope that the KLX performance will improve sufficiently enough so that I can say the same.

Cheers,

Gavin

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The FSW header is larger than the stocker all the way from exhaust port to where it mates to the stock muffler. It's guaranteed to improve all aspects of performance.

DJChan had to clean out his carb, but after that his bike runs as well as mine. I also have the 13T countershaft sprocket.

Everything Bill P says is true. If you want a bit more detail, do a search in some of the KLX threads, and you'll get a lot of info on all the above.

Good luck with the wheelies!

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Gavin - there's a chance that the Aussie KLX exhausts are different than the ones we have here on the KLX300 in the states. If it's the same, there's a "butt plug" on the rear of the exhaust that you can remove with 2/3 screws that opens the hole from a pencil sized hole to a hole about 1" in diameter. Doing that along with the FSW header which fits perfectly with the stock ex. can will de-restrict your exhaust nicely without being too loud. You can get a downturn for it as well that helps with the tone a little bit. Good luck.

Bill

PS - once the ex. can has been de-restricted, the main power gains come from the header pipe. All the expensive full pipe solutions don't add a lot of power over the FSW header/stock derestricted pipe combo.

Thanks Bill_P for the tips.

RE: #3 & the FSW head pipe.

I did notice that the header pipe has a significantly smaller inside diameter than the cylinder head exhaust port.

Does the FSW pipe still help when using the standard silencer?

Why I ask is that the outlet on the standard silencer would seem to be smaller again - than the cylinder head exhaust port.

I am all ears!

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Hi MaverickAUS,

I am sure you do love your KLX.

I have friends who love their CT110 posty bikes, Citroens etc.

I have also heard of people loving their Hyundai Excels, though not knowing them personally.

I guess it takes all kinds to make up the world!

I hope that the KLX performance will improve sufficiently enough so that I can say the same.

Cheers,

Gavin

Hey Gav

Things are a little different her in oz, our bikes aren't quite as restricted as in the US. After saying that almost everything that they are doing can be done to oz models and will give the same results. These guys are very helpfull and have a wealth of great info to help you through.

Also have a look at this thread, It is from an oz site and has contacts and mods for oz bikes

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19279

cheers hatto

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If you want to wheelie, change the gears to 13-45. Jetting and a better exhaust will also help.

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I like VW's too they are a great car they do exactly what they are designed to do .... just like the KLX250 does

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dude, you can do a wheelie without making mods, my picture is of me doing a wheelie on a totally stock klx, its all the rider, and i didnt use the clutch

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here is an equation seating position + clutch + throtle = wheelie and it takes practice and once you get to become comfortable with them you can shift through the gears.

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I don't recall seeing in his posts that he wants a fat overweight pig

kelso_burn.gif

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Being able to "wheelie" a bike and being able to lift the front end on command off road are two different things. The KLX will wheelie just fine. Unless geared to 13/50 and significantly modified with exhaust/intake mods and a pumper carb, it will not consistantly lift the front wheel off road. (Unless you're in 1st gear - then it's pretty consistant.) The CVK carb was never meant to do that. Sometimes it will lift.....and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will lift, but not quite enough. :thumbsup: It's all in how you "anticipate" how much and when you want the wheel to come up. Me? I dont' like to try that hard. And I really don't like what happens when it decides not to rev when I snap the throttle....thus...an FCR carb was the answer for me.

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