Tearing into the bike, couple of hopefully simple questions...

Did the first oil change. Pulled out lots of those reddish sealer or whatever it is on the screens. I don't know what to torque the oil filter cover, screen cover, and the forward screen bolt to. I'm scared of stripping them from everything I've read. 15Nm?

Was going to install the Uptite Y, but realized that the hose clamps on the T right now are those crimp style. How do you get those off without mangling the hose?

One reason I'm shy about torquing the above mentioned bolts, is that while I was installing my mid-pipe shield, I never hit the torque for the lower subframe bolt before it stripped. I was really surprised how thin those welded lugs were. I was able to fix it by taking off the exhaust, and putting a longer bold on from the backside, since the whole goes all the way through, and using a nut. With the exhaust in place, it could never come apart. I'll get a timesert put in at some point, but this actually seems stronger now that stock. In fact, I'm thinking about doing the other side the same way. Any thoughts?

Had to quit earlier before I got to the carb. Too hot in the garage. Will hopefully get it done as it cools off this evening. Easy bike to work on.

Use a flat head screwdriver under the crimps and twist. they should pop apart. Dont know the torque specs, but I just tighten with the wrist.

Funny -- I did my Y today too and pondered the same question. I didn't know the srewdriver solution -- I was able to cut them fairly easily and didn't appear to damage the hoses. I also ended up cutting a little less than an inch off the right side hose on reassembly. My garage must've hit 115 without breeze by the time I made for cooler territory! As for the oil filter screws, I've also hand tightened (except the weep screw into the magnesium, which I dutifully stripped long ago and have retapped fpr a larger screw that I gingerlly install and then safety-wire). Ed

Ugh. Got the whole thing back together, and realized I never put the fuel screw back in. Hopefully I can get it on from just tilting the carb. You really have to fight the airbox boot on this bike to get the carb back in if you take it out. At least I did.

Oh well, I'll deal with it tomorrow.

you don't have to remove the carb to access any/all of the jet''s or needle on the carb. Loosen and twist to the side after you remove the crankcase breather hose from the airbox.

Unbolt the brake res. too if its a 250/450/510! Also the FS has a washer, O ring and spring that are all necessary. A small hex drive regular screwdriver bit, with the edges shaved a little on a grinder and a mark to count turns, notch it on one flat, will fit under there on most bikes, you need to be good with your fingertips and a cool engine helps too!

Did the first oil change. Pulled out lots of those reddish sealer or whatever it is on the screens.

How many miles did you have before your first oil change? I had a few metal particles and the break in oil was black looking. Only had 50 miles on it when I changed it. Point is it is better to change it sooner than later.:thumbsup:

75-miles or so.

My oil actually didn't look too bad. I haven't waved a wand through it to see what metal might have come out, but it looked newish.

I had about the same amount of red stuff on my 610 when I did it.

Unbolt the brake res. too if its a 250/450/510!

The 2006 TE250/450/510 need to have the brake res. unbolted/moved out of the way - 2007 does not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now