Does your X eat oil?

I mentioned in a previous post the need for me to switch to the cooler heat range iridium spark plug (IFR9H11 vs IFR8H11) because temperatures here have reach 120's and my bike was having symptoms. Anyway I checked the oil today and the dip stick was dry so I added oil and it was 250cc low, so I run it at idle for 3 minutes and then changed the oil and filter. I was shocked that it ate that much oil after being toped off only 250 miles ago. I suppose with only 400 total miles it is still braking in and perhaps why the consumption. Any one else eat that much oil in so few miles?:thumbsup:

hondas do use a little oil. I usally add a 1/2-1 cup between oil changes

Mine just eats up trails....

That cooler plug is not going to make it run any cooler.

Oh and BTW..yes these engines will burn oil...esp if broken in easy or if you run the Honda oil.....the Honda moly oil is even worse..

Try some Maxima Extra....when I switched the consumption went way down and sometimes it burns none.

Gunner, I have a 06. I have only put about 250 miles on it and have had no sign of oil usage. I have changed oil 3 times as am being overly cautious. I have not pushed the bike that hard yet. I am sure that by looking at the ring design that using some oil on this bike would be normal. I can tell by your posts you are like me, worry about every detail. :thumbsup:

mine eats a little

4000 miles and mine does't

Too bad Honda didn't use a section of the frame tube to house more oil like my old DRZ400 3.5 quarts. But the X is a race bike so thats expected, Im using Bel-Ray EXP Semi Synthetic 4-stroke Motor Oil since its rated for both engine and tranny and it reasonably priced. But I might switch to Klotz Mx4 full synthetic Off-Road Techniplate 4-Stroke Motor Oil ($7). Klotz has a reputation for making excellent race oil. Well its 105 deg at 5:12 am and sunrise here, time to go ride before the sun get up in temp to 120

Oh and BTW..yes these engines will burn oil...esp if broken in easy or if you run the Honda oil.....the Honda moly oil is even worse..

Try some Maxima Extra....when I switched the consumption went way down and sometimes it burns none.

That's exactly right. I run HP4M and check oil before every ride. I might get half way down the stick between oil changes or about every 200 miles. Thanks for the tip on the Maxima, DD.....I'll try it and see what happens.

In the hot weather, you want to be running Maxima Extra ester synthetic 15W50. http://www.maximausa.com/products/4stroke/maxum4synthextra.asp

Their 10W40 viscosity is spec'd right on the borderline of 30/40 weight (12.5 cSt @ 100 degrees C), so in reality you can call it a "heavy" 30 or a "light" 40, whichever you wish (no doubt they call it 40 for marketing purposes). I think we can all agree that even a "heavy" 30 is to light for a blazing Arizona summer. 10W40 will make a great winter oil for you, but for really hot weather absolutely go with the 15W50 (17.42 cSt @ 100 degrees C). Ester synthetics have monster film strength, and I think you will find that it will help seal your rings!

Another choice might be Red Line, but only in the engine side because it is a JASO MB oil with friction modifiers: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?categoryID=11

What you running in the trans??? I suggest the Extra for the trans as well! Or, Red Line gear oil: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?categoryID=6&subCategoryID=16

One reason Iv used Klotz for all my 2-stroke in the past is because the whole company was founded on the development of pure synthetic racing oils for motorcycles. So I'm going to try there 4-stroke 15w/50 blend which sell for only $7 at Rocky Mountain ATV although $11 MSRP per quart. Also Klotz is one of the few oils out there that provide technical data sheets to the public since anything can be labeled on the outside of a bottle.

LUBRICANTS 4-STROKE

SYNTHETIC

MOTORCYCLE TECHNIPLATE® 15W/50

Unique fully synthetic formula contains TechniPlate Lubricity System which provides

load carrying capacity and film strength greater than petroleum and petroleum/synthetic

blend lubricants. Superior thermal transfer properties lowers engine temperatures.

Shear stable synthetic polymers give superior clutch/transmission protection and

operation.

• TechniPlate Peak Film Strength and Anti-Wear protection

• High Load Carrying capacity for reduced bearing and ring wear

• Thermally Stable in Hi-RPM applications for increased horsepower

• Shear Resistant Anti-Foam Polymers maintain optimum lubrication

• Superior sealing for more power

• Smoother clutch and transmission operation

• Superior thermal transfer for reduced engine temperatures

• Anti-Oxidation protection against rust and corrosion

APPLICATION:

Motorcycle - 4-stroke/gas; Stock/trail/street, Hi-performance,

Drag racing, Road racing, NOS

Motorcycle - 4-stroke/alcohol; Stock/trail/street,

Hi-performance, Drag racing, NOS

H-D Evolution/Sportster - Stock/street, Hi-performance,

Drag racing, Road racing

H-D pre-Evolution engine - Stock/street, Hi-performance, Drag racing

Legends/Dwarf Cars – 4-stroke/gas; Oval racing, Road Racing

CHARACTERISTICS:

Film Strength: 8 1=failure; 10=virtually no wear

API Service Class: SF/SG

SAE Grade: 15W/50

Viscosity @100°F: 500 SUS @ 40°C: 100 cSt

Pour Point: -30°F

Flash Point: 425°F

RPM Limit: Unlimited

Rust Prevention: Contain rust inhibitors.

Certification: API SF/SG, JASO MA 4T

Color: Red

DIRECTIONS:

Compatibility: Compatible with methanol alcohol and gasoline. Will blend with petroleum oils

and synthetic lubricants. 60% Biodegradable formula.

Fill crankcase to manufacturer's recommended level.

AVAILABILITY: KL-815 quart; KL-816 gallon; 30 & 55 gallon drum

Klotz Special Formula Products, Inc. • 7424 Freedom Way • Fort Wayne, IN 46818 260-490-0489 • 800-242-0489 • 260-490-0490 fax • www.klotzlube.comtechsupport@klotzlube.com

http://www.klotzlube.com/storeProdDetails.asp?pi=62

Klotz is good stuff. Don't you think all the performance motorcycle oils are pretty good though?

Mine mostly eats Yamaha's and KTM's, oh and a little oil too.:thumbsup:

Well yes and no. As you know most 2-strokes dirt have been stickly MX race bikes for some time and I have treated them that way not wanting to damage but prolong a rebuild for as long as possible. Unlike my DRZ400 this is my first 4-stroke race bike and that fact is beginning to sink in so I realize I have to treat it accordingly if I expect to hold off on a rebuild for as long as possible. So the "Bel-Ray cheap race oil" is coming out and quality race oil with history and technical data to back it up is going in. So almost all oil is pretty good for my standard bikes but race engines requires one of the best industry proven race oils but not necessarily the most expensive or heavily advertised. Like an old friend I have had some history with Klotz, and trust it, so it will go in.

Having said all that, if it turns out that klotz doesn't slow the consumption problem, I will defiantly try the other stuff you have all recomended.

Klotz is good stuff. Don't you think all the performance motorcycle oils are pretty good though?

You can lead a horse to water........

Mine doesn't burn any oil not even from day 1. I put 6k on it and never burned a drop. Now with the new top end it doesn't even burn any. I live by the ride it like you stole on a fresh engine. I use amsoil 10/40 with no problems. But like most have said it is typical for a engine like this to burn a little oil especially with the shape of the piston.

I did a 180 mile ride down south and when I checked the oil at the end of the day, there was nothing on the dip stick and I topped it off at the begining of the day. I think I am going to go with the Maxima stuff.

Klotz is good oil. It appears to be PAO based, but contains some ester. It and Motul, would be my second choice behind Maxima or Red Line.

I am betting that the oil is blowing by the rings, in the engines that are experienceing oil consumption. The synthetics, but the ester synthetics in particular, have very high film stengths! What makes ester synthetics unique is that each molecule of ester is like a little charged magnet...so it sticks to metal surfaces. This forms a superior film of oil on the wall of the combustion chamber, and that film will help to seal your rings (= more power!)!

Question: I know that the 450R dirt bike has only two rings. Does the 450X have two or three rings??? Quad has three, and you never hear of a quad having high oil consumption...unless it is just plain worn out.....

Mine doesn't burn any oil not even from day 1. I put 6k on it and never burned a drop. Now with the new top end it doesn't even burn any. I live by the ride it like you stole on a fresh engine. I use amsoil 10/40 with no problems. But like most have said it is typical for a engine like this to burn a little oil especially with the shape of the piston.

Yeah,I went that way with my new top end....warmed it up and took off like a bat out of hell....time will tell if it makes a difference.

I gently broke the engine in when new...not this time.

Yeah,I went that way with my new top end....warmed it up and took off like a bat out of hell....time will tell if it makes a difference.

I gently broke the engine in when new...not this time.

That has been my rule since I have been rebuilding engines.

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