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hi all,

besides the fitting problem some people are having, how cumfy are the seats, i'm thinking of getting one for my bike, i can get one for $500aus, just worried that i will not be happy with the seat, the standard seat i'm lucky to get 30klms without getting a sore arse,what would be nice is to see a full tank(around 230klms) and still feel ok.

thanks in advance...

cheers tony...

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hi all,

besides the fitting problem some people are having, how cumfy are the seats, i'm thinking of getting one for my bike, i can get one for $500aus, just worried that i will not be happy with the seat, the standard seat i'm lucky to get 30klms without getting a sore arse,what would be nice is to see a full tank(around 230klms) and still feel ok.

thanks in advance...

cheers tony...

I’m really happy with the comfort of the seat. I could only ride for about 30 minutes on the stocker before my rear was complaining. Now I can ride for twice that long with little or no problem. :thumbsup: It also seems like the more I ride, the better it gets. I guess the padding is breaking in.

My wife likes it better as well. So for a passenger it is an improvement too.

The fit is not real bad, as a matter of fact it’s pretty close. After looking at it and removing/installing the seat several times now I think I can play with the rear mounts and get the seat to fit a tighter. The gap between the seat and tank is only about ¼” more than what I think it should be. It’s fitting a little tighter than it was.

Corbin1.jpg

Corbin2.jpg

Corbin3.jpg

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As for seat comfort, I think it's great. Stock seat hurt within 1/2 hour of riding. The day I got the Corbin, I rode for maybe 1 1/2 hours with no problem.

As for break-in, I agree. I've read other posts about that (it gets more comfortable as you ride it).

As for fit (the vibration problem), I think I have a solution. I worked on it yesterday and will test it today. If it works, it's cheap and easy. I'll post tonight hopefully.

I think there will always be a gap, I don't think of that as "fit" per se. The stock seat has a softer base so it bends more. The Corbin pan is fiberglass (or some such) and can't flex like that.

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I think I have a solution. I worked on it yesterday and will test it today. If it works, it's cheap and easy. I'll post tonight hopefully.

Sure, keep me in suspense... :thumbsup:

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There's GOTTA be some suspense...

My first test didn't work as well as planned, so I'm making a modification now and I will post tomorrow if all goes well.

What I did (I'll have pics if it works): I took the rubber blocks off the stock seat and glued them to the Corbin pan at strategic locations.

I started with four: two perpendicular to the seat, where the pads are on the stock seat, so they press against a cross-member on the frame (that is where they were on the stock seat). The second two are on the part that goes up the tank, not too far from where the curve is.

CURRENT PLAN: I'm using the final two (there are 6 on the original seat) above and below the upper bracket (the one that secures with allen screws and just goes under the little tab at the top of the tank. AGAIN, you will have to see the pics (which I'll take if all goes well).

I went on a ride this evening with the four in place. They definitely make contact with the frame and tank (there were marks on the dust on the bike), but the upper part of the seat still vibrated. I stuffed a hankie in the gap between the seat and tank and the vibration went away (or was silent, at least), so I figured the last 2 blocks would do the trick.

CAUTION: you may be tempted, as I was, to try to use the blocks "as is" with the little nipples in place, and drill holes in the seat pan so the blocks could be popped in and out. Well, I've got a nice little hole in the seat cover for THAT effort: the pan is hard fiberglass and it caught my drill bit and spun through to the seat cover before I could stop it. MAYBE that will work, but you need a good drill bit with one of those stoppers on it so the bit doesn't go in too deep. I think the Corbin pan is thicker than stock, so that may not work anyway (I did get 2 holes in but the little nipples would not stick in place). I am gluing the blocks in place after cutting the nipples off and sanding both the rubber blocks and the seat pan so the glue has something to grip.

More after the ride tomorrow.

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...the upper bracket (the one that secures with allen screws and just goes under the little tab at the top of the tank.

Hmm... my top "mount" was just a flat piece of metal. Nothing goes under the top mount.

I think I will take a picture of it and post it for comparison. Maybe I didn't get the correct mount.

Well after posting this, I called Corbin to inquire about the mount, and was told there was not supposed to be a top mount?!?!?!?

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There's a top mount on mine.

Locates nicely in the right place on the top mount on the IMS.

I'll find a pic somewhere...

20070214-175721.jpg

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There's a top mount on mine.

Locates nicely in the right place on the top mount on the IMS.

I'll find a pic somewhere...

20070214-175721.jpg

That's what I need! :cheers:

I wonder why Corbin would use one for the IMS tank and not the stock one? :busted:

When I called Corbin today, I was quckly informed that there was not top mount... even though mine had one on it that I removed. :thumbsup:

Oh well, mines not that bad. I just wanted something more for the noise that when the wife rides with me. :thumbsup:

Thanks for the post and the pic!

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Well, I don't know if you call it a "top mount" per se, but there is a piece of metal that is at the top of the seat and it goes under the bracket that is on the tank. It's not a rectangular piece of metal like in the pic above, it's a trapezoidal piece, bottom wider than top (relative to the upper part of the seat), the top of it goes under the tank bracket.

And, yes, I guess you could call it a "flat piece of metal" as you mention, Denbar. I will be sure to have pics of it, too. It can adjust somewhat -- I noticed that, as it was, it scratched some of the paint under that little tank bracket (you'll see in the pics).

The glue should be dry on the rubber blocks I added, so I should have a test ride and new pics later.

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OK! I completed my test run later than I thought (and got rained-on as a result!). The mods made seem to keep the seat from buzzing when it vibrates. It still vibrates, but you can't really hear it or feel it unless you put your hand on the upper part of the seat.

NOTE: I tried to link the actual pics (I posted on imagevenue), but there was some trouble, so I posted hotlinks, so you will have to click on each pic to be able to actually read or see anything (apologies). I will put a caption above each pic so you can get an idea of what's going on.

First, as mentioned in an earlier post, I used rubber blocks from the stock seat. I cut off the little nipple-whatevers off the back, then sanded them and the seat so the glue would stick. I used Goop Automotive adhesive (red tube). Holds pretty well if you let it sit overnight -- I wound up removing one block (as you will see below) and had to pry the thing off with a screwdriver.

In this pic, the seat is oriented top-to-bottom. I put two blocks on the pan so that they would press against a cross-member of the frame just as they were in the stock seat. I guess you could measure the distance, but I eyeballed it with the stock seat next to the Corbin (aligned the bracket mounts). There's a pic of the cross-member below. I don't know if these two really helped, but they don't hurt the seat fit, and I'm tired of removing the seat, so they're staying put for the time being.

th_35856_290_122_704lo.jpg

In this pic, the top of the seat (where it goes up against the tank) is at the BOTTOM of the pic. I again eyeballed placement. The blocks are glued to the sides of the pan about 1/2 way up from where the pan curves upward to meet the tank. The blocks are on the pan "edges" -- the pan is a bit curved in the middle then REALLY curves vertical (relative to the seat if it were mounted in place) and I glued the blocks on this vertical so that they would press against the outermost part of where the tank is molded to fit the seat (see tank pic below).

th_35862_292_122_1048lo.jpg

Again, I have the top (upper tip) of the seat at the bottom of the pic (I'm just obtuse). This pic shows 2 additional blocks I tried. The one with the red "X" is NOT needed -- it actually hurt things by holding the seat too far away from the tank, so it's no longer there. This pic also shows the infamous "upper bracket." This one is VERY different from the one shown in another post of a seat for an IMS tank. It's the trapezoidal piece I mentioned in another post. The very "tip" of it is what fits under the upper bracket on the tank.

NOTE: I had to adjust this bracket so that it would fit under the bracket on the tank after the rubber block at the tip of the seat was in place.

NOTE 2: The block at the bottom of the pic (top of the seat) was the KEY -- once in place, the seat didn't vibrate noisily.

th_35868_295_122_376lo.jpg

Here, the seat tip is to the RIGHT side of the pic. It shows the upper bracket again and the allen-head bolts I loosened to pull the bracket out (away from the seat pan) so that it would again catch on the tank bracket.

NOTE: if the bracket is NOT adjusted, the seat can be pulled from side to side quite a bit since that rubber block at the tip holds the seat away from the tank. I didn't bother to test to see if it vibrated.

Once adjusted, the bracket held the seat in place pretty well.

th_35869_303_122_1161lo.jpg

In another post, I mentioned the thick washers under the rear seat brackets (where they bolt to the frame behind the battery). Here's a pic. There are 4 total, two on each of the seat brackets.

th_35875_305_122_1171lo.jpg

Seat top to RIGHT. Another view of the blocks in place. Again that one in the middle of the pic (red "X") should NOT be there. Before I removed it, I could NOT adjust the upper bracket enough to catch the tank bracket.

th_35880_307_122_38lo.jpg

This is the tank itself, as seen from driving position. I indicate where the 3 blocks hit the tank (approximately). If you look VERY closely, on the lower left-hand side of the "tongue" of the bracket, you see just a bit of a scratch on the tank. That was BEFORE I added the rubber block at the tip of the seat.

th_35887_308_122_712lo.jpg

This is the cross-member mentioned earlier. The first 2 blocks pictured sit on top of this bracket. Between the 2 blocks and those thick spacer-washers, the seat sits so that there is a gap between the seat bottom and the frame (more so than there was on the stock seat). The gap is maybe 1/2-inch (didn't measure). The 2 rubber "bumpers" that Corbin had installed on the rear corners of the seat don't touch the bike at all. I don't know if they ever did.

th_40238_309_122_851lo.jpg

That's it. As far as I'm concerned, the vibration problem is solved. I'll have to take it on a long ride to be sure no other issues arise. As mentioned, I may remove those first 2 blocks that press on the cross-member and/or the 2 thick washers, but not in the near future.

NOTE:when I got the seat (from kientech.com), Jesse had put a note in the box to be sure to install the 2 washers between the seat pan and the bracket as shown in the pic (at least I HOPE I read the directions correctly). He didn't say why.

I didn't notice how big a gap there was between the seat pan and frame before I started gluing the blocks in place. I wonder if the seat would vibrate WORSE if those washers weren't holding the pan away from the frame.

SUGGESTION: if you're planning on trying this and want to add to the experiment, first leave the washers out and see if that makes things worse. THEN, ONLY put the 3 blocks at the tip of the seat in place (the ones that press against the tank) to see if the first 2 blocks that press against the cross-member are needed at all. If they are NOT needed, then you will save yourself from having to buy more blocks if you ever decide to put the stock seat back on.

FINAL NOTE: with the 3 blocks at the front of the seat pressing on the tank, I DID have to push the seat forward a bit to get the bolts on the rear seat brackets to go into place on the frame. They were only off by MAYBE 1/4-inch or so and didn't take any real effort, just a bit of forward pressure to hold the seat while I tightened the bolts. There was a post about the bracket holes being 3/4 of an inch off. To me, THAT sounds like there is a big problem with the seat, maybe one of the brackets.

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Dude - awesome writeup! I got my Corbin on order so I am following this...

BTW you should send en email to Jesse and/or Corbin, with the link here so they can see what you did. They (Corbin) need to get this figured out in their manufacturing process. It ain't right that we'd have to do this stuff to make it fit when it is supposed to fit from the factory! That's just not cool!

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Thanks sdemondo. My top bracket looks the same way as yours does. It scratched my tank as well, so I took it off. I wonder how they got on both of our seats since, according to Corbin, they don’t have one? :thumbsup:

I like the idea of the rubber bumper above the top tank mount, great idea. :thumbsup:

Also mine does not have any washers under the rear mounts. I can see where shimming the back should effectively close the small gap I have at the front. However it looks like it could raise the back bumpers that are on the seat off of the frame. Of course since I haven’t thought to check, they may not be touching anyway.

I know the wife will be thrilled… I have more to do to the DR now… :busted:

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Just got my Corbin Friday. My seat came with the mystery tab. I put it on Sunday and had trouble getting the lower brackets to line up. They were about 3/4" off like some other posts said. I pushed and wiggled trying to get it lined. Then, I sat on the seat to see if I could get some weight to line it up, there was a "pop" and the seat lined up PERFECT. I'm not sure where the problem was, as it was under me when it happened, but the pop moved the seat that 3/4". It is a perfect fit now, even at the tank.

I've got a Dynokit coming and I'll have to remove the seat this weekend. I'll check for scratching, etc. I'll also see if the seat goes on easily or if I have to use the butt trick again. I'll let you know!

By the way, the Corbin is a real butt saver. I rode for 3 hours Tuesday. When I stopped for gas, after two hours, I was able to stand up straight without the lower back stiffness and numb butt syndrome.

Thank you Corbin!

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Just got my Corbin Friday. My seat came with the mystery tab. I put it on Sunday and had trouble getting the lower brackets to line up. They were about 3/4" off like some other posts said. I pushed and wiggled trying to get it lined. Then, I sat on the seat to see if I could get some weight to line it up, there was a "pop" and the seat lined up PERFECT. I'm not sure where the problem was, as it was under me when it happened, but the pop moved the seat that 3/4". It is a perfect fit now, even at the tank.

I had trouble with my first install. I had to bang on it like crazy to get it to fit right. After having had the seat off numerous times now (I'm a glutton for punishment), it slides in easily. Maybe it's the leather wrapped steel mount?

Good luck with the rejetting! There is some good info on these forums as well as some really smart people that can help.

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Just got my Corbin Friday. My seat came with the mystery tab. I put it on Sunday and had trouble getting the lower brackets to line up. They were about 3/4" off like some other posts said. I pushed and wiggled trying to get it lined. Then, I sat on the seat to see if I could get some weight to line it up, there was a "pop" and the seat lined up PERFECT.

Since I spent WAY too much time messing with the seat in the last few days, I have been thinking about that mysterious gap.

I think it may be that upper tab adjustment. The 2 allen-head bolts I indicate let the tab slide back and forth (the bolt holes are slotted). I GUESS that if the bracket is too far forward/out, then it hits the bracket in the tank too soon and causes that 3/4" problem.

That "pop" may have been the bracket being moved OR the tab on the tank bracket being bent. Check it out.

And, Denbar, maybe your "severe" vibration problem was due to the fact that you removed that bracket / tab in the first place. Until I adjusted it, that upper part of the seat wiggled around alot. I hadn't thought about those washers shimming the seat to tilt it forward, good thought. It may be worth finding some, then. If they were rubber, they may help isolate the seat even more.

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I went ahead and pulled the seat. Just curious. The tab, tank bracket, fiberglass undercarriage, everything is fine. The tank isn't even scratched! For some reason, a little weight in the right place makes something go in right.

When I just put it back together, it lined up right the first time!

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And, Denbar, maybe your "severe" vibration problem was due to the fact that you removed that bracket / tab in the first place.

No the noise went away after I removed the bracket.

After considering the "bracket" I do think it would remove some of the lateral play at the top of the seat. Rather than putting that tank scratcher bank on though, I think I will look at other options first.

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No the noise went away after I removed the bracket.

After considering the "bracket" I do think it would remove some of the lateral play at the top of the seat. Rather than putting that tank scratcher bank on though, I think I will look at other options first.

Man, Denbar, your situation is so opposite of mine! :thumbsup:

Without that bracket touching the tank bracket, my seat moved INCHES to either side. I would expect THAT would vibrate like a tuning fork! The fact that it STOPPED the vibration in your case is confusing.

If I find that the bracket is again rubbing the tank, I was thinking of covering it with some thin rubber coating (like the stuff you dip tool handles in) OR just glue on a piece of bicycle inner tube (I bought some for the bash plate to make THAT quiet). I've got to get some riding in before I mess with it some more, though.

ON THAT (the fun stuff, total ASIDE), I took the bike down this ridiculously twisty state road (the joys of living in the mountains) the other day. Best 2 hours of the week so far! Sure, a Ducati passed me by, but I was able to traverse a dirt trail to get there vs. having to take the long way around! It felt like I was on a 10-speed bicycle, the way the DR effortlessly switched from left to right on the double-s-bends. I found no problems whatsoever with the brakes -- stopped me as needed no stand-up or sliding. I know the extra HP from a DynoJet and airbox will be worth it. Suspension is a bit of a question since I need it for both street and dirt.

Now to get my son's dirt bike going (he's got some things to fix) so we can hit the trails!

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Man, Denbar, your situation is so opposite of mine! :thumbsup:

Without that bracket touching the tank bracket, my seat moved INCHES to either side. I would expect THAT would vibrate like a tuning fork! The fact that it STOPPED the vibration in your case is confusing.

If I find that the bracket is again rubbing the tank, I was thinking of covering it with some thin rubber coating (like the stuff you dip tool handles in) OR just glue on a piece of bicycle inner tube (I bought some for the bash plate to make THAT quiet). I've got to get some riding in before I mess with it some more, though.

ON THAT (the fun stuff, total ASIDE), I took the bike down this ridiculously twisty state road (the joys of living in the mountains) the other day. Best 2 hours of the week so far! Sure, a Ducati passed me by, but I was able to traverse a dirt trail to get there vs. having to take the long way around! It felt like I was on a 10-speed bicycle, the way the DR effortlessly switched from left to right on the double-s-bends. I found no problems whatsoever with the brakes -- stopped me as needed no stand-up or sliding. I know the extra HP from a DynoJet and airbox will be worth it. Suspension is a bit of a question since I need it for both street and dirt.

Now to get my son's dirt bike going (he's got some things to fix) so we can hit the trails!

I still have the vibration, but since the tank doesn't actually touch the seat at the top, no noise! It works temporarily for me. I seem to have caught the Jetting Fever for the moment and have most of my limited time focused there... (it's all MxRobs fault!) :bonk:

Them twisty roads can be a lot of fun. I am actually finding them more fun since I lowered my bike last weekend… it has just amazes me what a difference it has made on the road. I haven’t had the opportunity to go off road since then, but I can’t see why it would be a bad thing, after all I can reach the ground better. After installing my Corbin, I was really tiptoeing to touch, but not anymore! :busted:

My son has a Honda 70 and I love riding with him. He is so funny sometimes… and of course always ready to race! I will admit, trying to follow him can be a chore especially in the corners, he just blast right through on that little thing, leaving me behind hunting the brakes! Man that thing will corner! :thumbsup:

I have found the DR to do quite well off-road. I realize it’s not an MX bike, but with a little patience and practice, it’ll get you wherever they can go. And it’s just a lot of fun get’n there!

Hope you get your sons bike going, sounds like you are looking forward to it! :cheers:

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