I get by with a little help from my friends

2 completely different issues have me stumped. Help is definitely appreciated.

1- I just had a local shop change my 2000 WR to the YZ timing and I put a White Brother's e-series exhaust with the stock pipe. Throttle stop, air box, and baffle removal on stock exhaust was done a long time ago. I went very close to Clark's jetting: 48 pilot, 2 1/3 turns out on airscrew; DWP needle, 4th position down, 178 main jet. I live in So Cal, do mx and trails.

My ?- I was expecting this wheelie machine with Nosebleed power. I.e. radical change. What I feel like I got was a good minor change. The bike doesn't feel bad or seem to have jetting problems, but when I give it hard gas, its doesn't wheelie that well or hit that hard. Is something wrong (possibly rider, its been a while) or are my expectations off or does something sound wrong?

2- Second completely different question- I replaced by stock bars with Renthal bars. When I tried to put on my Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards, with the rubber boot cover on the insert that goes into the bars, they won't fit in the bars. The Renthal bars are thicker, therefore the hole is smaller than the stock bars. Anyone had this problem? I was wondering if I could take the rubber boot off. They will fit that way.

Thanks a lot for the help.



2000 WR

Take the rubber boot off of the bar inserts. They will fit the Renthal bars. The rubber is for stock or steel bars which are not as thick.

You may be expecting a whole lot more than what you actually get with the YZ timing. It is definatley there, but I find it more when I am in 2cd or 3rd gear and then punch the throttle. That doesn't me you are going to wheelie all the time. But I find that I have to hold on just a little bit harder.


Dougie, '99 WR400

Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.

Dougie is running 14/52 gearing. Gearing your bike a little lower like him will enable more wheelies. My bike with stock 14/50 will wheelie when I want it to (and sometimes when I don't). :)


"00" WR YZ Timed, E-series pipe,

Dougie, I dont mean to beat a dead horse but... regarding the yz timing thing, I currently ride with wr timing. Because I race alot of enduros in the so cal desert their are times where I'll be climbing a rock hill that is almost unrideable and spend alot of time in 2nd and 3rd gear but their are also sections that I'll be trying to make up time on fast roads, I like the fact that the power is managable all around. I mean, I think my bike is plenty fast, faster than I can go. Should I yz time it still?


98WR,Scotts tc and stabilizer,Pacemaker3,Pro-tapers,IMS 3.3,4.0,YZ seat,TM chain slider,stock pipe


How many disks are you running in the pipe? What altitude are you riding at? Are you running one of those 360 degree shrouds on the end of the pipe so the exhaust doesn't melt the plastic? I've noticed a difference with all of these things. I have only a small hesitation off idle but other than that it runs great. I'm running a 180 main, 48 pilot, stock YZ needle(dvr)in the fourth position from the top, 2 turns on the screw, 180 degree shroud over the top of the discs, 12 discs in an e-series s-bend, and my altitude is about 400-700ft. Clark has been a great help to get me to this point. The bike hits hard and there is plenty of power and actually too much in the tight stuff. Good luck


00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro

White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio


You may want to work a little more on the jetting, particularly on the bottom. I'm on the fat side at 245 (or more) and still can't keep the front wheel on the ground when I twist it hard in first or second. During all my jetting attempts, I experienced huge changes in throttle response with what seemed to be relatively minor jetting changes. I would guess that unless you are extremely heavy, you probably haven't experienced your bikes full potential.


Originally posted by Dan Lorenze:

Because I race alot of enduros in the so cal desert their are times where I'll be climbing a rock hill that is almost unrideable

That's the weak part of the YZ timing. If your rider enough to deal with the hills the YZ timing is ok. Otherwise expect to stall half way up and come back down the hard way.


That is a good question. Once I got a real taste of YZ timing on the tight, rocky, steep stuff, I was ready to go back to WR timing. I liked the power punch but I hated the loss of low end control which is what I need most out here in CO.

However, I needed a new chain and decided I wanted to go up two teeth on the rear sprocket to 52. That made a huge difference in controlling the YZ timing down low. I am going back to Moab over Memorial weekend, where I had so much trouble with the YZ timing and stock gearing. It will be an excellent side by side test. I really think I will have a much better ride this time around with the gearing change.

If you are happy with the WR timed controllability. I wouldn't make the change. If you do more tight rocky stuff than wide open desert riding, I would stay. But if your races involve a lot of wide open desert, then you may want to try it. It wouldn't hurt to try it anyway just to see what it is like. There are things you can do to make up for the loss of low end like gearing and flywheel weight.


Dougie, '99 WR400

Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.

Brad has an excellent point about weight. I'm at about 170 lbs and experience MAJOR wheelspin in what seems like every soil type known to man. This makes the bike a handful to ride. On rare occasion it will hook up and wheelie at the damnedest times, causing the dreaded "butt pucker". And when "climbing a rock hill that is almost unrideable", well, it's almost unrideable.

I'm running 15/50 gearing (not recommended for rock hills), YZ timing spec, DSP exhaust, 180 main 48 pilot, screw 2.2 turns out and no lid for a desert setup. Just received a 10oz flywheel weight and hope it helps with the wheelspin problem. I'm going through rear tires at an incredible rate. The flywheel weight should pay for itself in rear tires in no time. Also going to look at the suspension settings…

After performing the YZ timing surgery together with the exhaust system and jetting changes, I would hit the rev limiter immediately with the stock 14/50 sprokets. Also, no traction anywhere anytime. The 15/50 helped with the rev limiter problem.

Dan, was I on your row at the Gold Rush Enduro? 49 right?

Ron, I have a 10oz weight, you'll be amazed at the how much difference it makes. Actually I'm thinking of machining a few oz's off it.


'99 WR400

'92 GSXR 7/11

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[This message has been edited by MotoGreg (edited 05-06-2000).]

WR Jay- I have 12 discs, I'm not sure what your talking about on this exhaust shroud. But I don't think I have it because my right number plate is starting to melt a little. I did a GP this weekend, 1st trail ride with the YZ timing. I didn't feel any loss of low end power and the mid to top didn't feel like it ripped. But also, I wasn't as hard on the throttle as I noticed some of the other riders were (particularly 2 stroke, expert riders).

I'm going to try a 13 front gear and go out and try a jetting change (try the clip in the 3rd position and try a 180 main jet). If anyone has other suggestions to try, I'm open.




2000 WR


Hopefully you ment a DVP needle and not a DWP?

Try running the fuel screw a 1.0 to 1.25 turns out.

With at least 8 disks in the WB e-series you should be a wheele monster in first and second gears and be able to consistnetly wheele in third with a little pull on the bars. This would be with stock or lower gearing.


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