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Rekluse Set up for New Owner

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So I absolutely love my rekluse. It has made me a better rider in all areas. Now, last weekend going up a very steep hill with rocks all over it was a pain in the Arse. I have it set to come on immediately at idle. I can never find neutral when I am stopped, and I can only start it in neutral unless I stand up going down a hill and kick it. Not to mention on the steep hill it was too much hookup so the tire just kept spinning. It is time to make a adjustment and make it come on just above idle instead of right at idle. I have been told this will also help in the slick stuff which I haven't been in yet. I know someone told me how to adjust it but since I did not install it I have no idea what to do and I cannot find the post. Can I get some instructions a newbie could handle?

BTW, the rear brake setup is awesome and I can go down steeper hills now then I would ever try before.

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You should have 2 wave springs that came with the clutch. A short spring that causes engagement at a low rpm and a taller spring that sets engagement at a higher rpm. When you take the clutch cover off you will see a stainless steel plate held on by a number of small torx screws. Remove this plate. Under this plate is an aluminum plate with a number of steel and tungsten balls. This is the Rekluse pressure plate. Remove it.

Under the pressure plate you will see the wave spring and the throwout bearing. Replace the short spring with the long spring. Also there is a small bearing under a spring and flat washer. Make sure when the unit was installed that the sharp edge is facing away from the throwout bearing collar and towards the pressure plate.

Reassemble the clutch and check your clutch pack clearance. It should be around .032". If the clutch is still engaging at too low of an rpm then you need to reduce the number of tungsten balls in your pressure plate. This shouldn't be necessary but if you wish to do this I will give you the procedure.

I have the Rekluse manuals linked on a FAQ sticky in the KTM RFS forum.

Later, Bill.

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Thank you, I will look for the sticky when the site is up. It has been down for 2 days. How can I identify which spring is which before I open it up. ?

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Thank you, I will look for the sticky when the site is up. It has been down for 2 days. How can I identify which spring is which before I open it up. ?

Our site works perfectly. ktmtalk.com on the other hand is broken right now.

The FAQ is in the KTM 4 stroke forum:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4305348&postcount=1

Here's the link to Rekluse's manuals page:

http://www.rekluse.com/manuals.shtml

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Bill, thanks for all the help.

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I also forgot to mention. Is this a new install? If so, whoever installed it might have set the gap at around .028" to .030". I do this to compensate for break in wear. This will cause the clutch to drag some making it difficult to find neutral and also cause it to engage early. After the unit has worn in some the gap opens up and the clutch operates correctly.

Also the oil you use can make a dramatic impact on clutch operation. I use GM's AutoTrak II transfer case oil in my 200. It works quite well with a very smooth engagement. I believe Rekluse recommends Rotella T or Delo (at least they used to). You might try a different oil and see if it makes a difference for you.

I didn't note what bike you have but the 07 200 is a PITA. The clutch plates are total junk and getting the clutch to operate correctly is difficult. Replace the fibers with the Honda CRF250R fibers. They are drastically better.

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Yes it is a new install. I used motol gear oil. I probably have 15 hours on it and it is always the same. I thought it might break in a little as it always creeps in first and never can find neutral. As for the Honda clutch plates, my front brake blew out, count not gets a repair kit so I installed a Honda master cylinder and brake. Never could get a good pedal, bleed it to death and the brake still comes on about 1 inch from the bar. Doesn’t feel safe. 2004 KTM 250 EXC 2 stroke.

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Try a light weight oil and see if it helps some. If not, it's extremely easy to pull the clutch cover and measure installed gap. You want around .032". If it's not come up with a combination of steel plates to get the right gap. Make absolutely sure there isn't any aluminum plates installed. I've seen people install them. You should have the other wave spring in your parts kit. Compare it to the installed spring. Put the taller of the two in. If it isn't installed you should also have a flat washer in your kit. Install 1 flat washer in conjunction with the tall spring. I looked at the manual for your bike and it doesn't use tungsten balls so disregard my earlier comment. The tall spring and one flat washer will give you the highest stall speed. Please look at the latest manual for clarification.

It's very easy to disassemble the Rekluse and set it up. Don't let it intimidate you. Set up properly it's like cheating. :thumbsup:

Good luck, if you have any further questions please post. Somebody here can always help.

--Bill.

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I have the Rekluse on my '02 300EXC and also can't find neatral when it's running, but then found out that that's the way it is with the Rekluse. You can always find neatral when you use the clutch lever though, just not with out it. On my bike, it also creeped, and it was new install. I just put my front tire up against a wall and put it in 2nd gear and open it up and let the tire spin, then shift into 3rd and do the same. With everything so new, it just takes time to break everything in. Use Shell Rotella 15-40 oil also, that will make a difference to.

Just my 2 cents.

Little Jeff

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Another thing to look at is reducing the number of Tungsten balls, if you used some in the install. Lots of folks do use them for earlier hookup. I found 5 to be too many in my 04 250E and 06 300W. I ended up with just two 180 degrees apart.

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I do not have any Tungston balls.

When the mechanic did the install he gave me several little screws and said if the ball are ever out the screws must go in or something like that. Am I going to be at this poing changing the spring?

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Levy, before you pull your hair out...try your existing setup with Rotella and see if it changes the characteristics a bit.

A few other guys had minor issues and after the switch, they all went away.

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I cannot see oil making the difference. It started creeping in first from the first day. I called rekluse and they suggested breaking it in. Believe me it is well broke in. It still does the same thing, creeps in gear and no neutral while stopped. Of course sometimes I can get it in first with my hand when stopped but thats not the way I want it setup. In addition others have told me which it setup to come on immediately at idle I will have problems in the slick stuff with wheel spin. With it setup to come in a little above idle I have some room for error in the muddy according to them. Or I can control the wheel slip better. I think it is a setup issue but I could be wrong.

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I have the Rekluse on my '02 300EXC and also can't find neatral when it's running, but then found out that that's the way it is with the Rekluse. You can always find neatral when you use the clutch lever though, just not with out it. On my bike, it also creeped, and it was new install. I just put my front tire up against a wall and put it in 2nd gear and open it up and let the tire spin, then shift into 3rd and do the same. With everything so new, it just takes time to break everything in. Use Shell Rotella 15-40 oil also, that will make a difference to.

Just my 2 cents.

Little Jeff

I dont have a clutch leveler. I have a left hand rear brake.

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I agree that a quick check would be to try the oil.

I've experienced this with my z-start. The problem is worse when the oil is cold.

It sounds like your installed gap is too tight, if so different oils will tend to have more or less viscus drag. The tighter the gap the greater chance this can happen.

Try this. The number of installed ball won't matter with this...Click it into gear with the engine off and push the bike. It will be a little harder than when in neutral. Again if the gap is too tight it'll be real hard to push. You should only feel the viscus drag of the oil.

I didn't see any mention but I assume your idle isn't too high.

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Another thing to look at is reducing the number of Tungsten balls, if you used some in the install. Lots of folks do use them for earlier hookup. I found 5 to be too many in my 04 250E and 06 300W. I ended up with just two 180 degrees apart.

Hi Jeb:

I do not have any extra balls so I must not have the tungsten. What is the difference between my balls and the tungsten balls????????

Is a two ball tungsten setup better then mine? If so I can order them.

You have to have balls to be in this thread!:smirk:

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Hi Jeb:

I do not have any extra balls so I must not have the tungsten. What is the difference between my balls and the tungsten balls????????

Is a two ball tungsten setup better then mine? If so I can order them.

You have to have balls to be in this thread!:smirk:

The tungsten balls are roughly twice as heavy as the steel balls. These cause a faster and harder lockup then all steel.

I have an extra pack of 5 balls I'll let go cheap but you need to figure out what's going on in your clutch. Like I mentioned before, without knowing which spring, the installed gap or how many (if any) tungsten balls, we are just guessing.

--Bill.

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