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clutch issues

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i know this has been gone over 10 million times but im not sure what to do with my clutch. i cant find neutral ever when the bike is running and it will want to creep forward a lot. its getting progressively worse. its coming to a point now that if i have the clutch lever hauled rite into the bar in first gear it will stall. :thumbsup: the clutch adjustement on the bar and down on the cable just above the base of the motor is all the way adjusted. when i haul the clutch rite to the bar i can still turn the actuator arm with a wrench. what mod(s) should i do to fix my problem? or is my clutch gone all together? o yea by the way the bike is an 02 yz250f.

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i know this has been gone over 10 million times but im not sure what to do with my clutch. i cant find neutral ever when the bike is running and it will want to creep forward a lot. its getting progressively worse. its coming to a point now that if i have the clutch lever hauled rite into the bar in first gear it will stall. :thumbsup: the clutch adjustement on the bar and down on the cable just above the base of the motor is all the way adjusted. when i haul the clutch rite to the bar i can still turn the actuator arm with a wrench. what mod(s) should i do to fix my problem? or is my clutch gone all together? o yea by the way the bike is an 02 yz250f.

My 06 does something like this sometimes, but if you rev it stops

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I'm willing to bet that the clutch and springs need to be replaced, especially since its 5 years old.

Also when replacing it check the clutch basket for grooves, if it has grooves replace it along with the plates.

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ok ill check out the clutch plates. but im going to try 2 mods first. drilling holes in the clutch boss and taking off the 2 thin rings between the last friction plate and the basket. my only problem is that i dont know for sure what rings to remove. im guessing #13 and #14 in this diagram. http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~851930~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock%29+Parts~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~2002~model_dept_mfr~Yamaha~model_dept_id~845594~model_dept_name~YZ250FP.asp thanks for your help.

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I don't know that I would take out the plates. They do take up space in the clutch assembly. With out them the clutch plate assembly will be thinner and may cause the clutch to not disengage propperly. It may make the problem worse...... although I'm not 100% sure..... It just seems like it would be a bad idea (like eliminating one friction and one steel plate)

Post how it all goes. The drilling seems like a better idea as it would help lubricate the plates better.

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I don't know that I would take out the plates. They do take up space in the clutch assembly. With out them the clutch plate assembly will be thinner and may cause the clutch to not disengage propperly. It may make the problem worse...... although I'm not 100% sure..... It just seems like it would be a bad idea (like eliminating one friction and one steel plate)

Post how it all goes. The drilling seems like a better idea as it would help lubricate the plates better.

the two thin rings that im talking about removing are actually the plate seat and the clutch boss spring. ill post how it all goes hopefully by tomorrow morning sometime. thanks for your quick help. :thumbsup:

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There is a long thread from around 2005 about some dude who removed them on his WR. It fixed his issues so do a search and read a bit. My experience with removing the spacer and the springy thingy is that shifts are much crisper/firmer and there is some slight grabbiness when modulating the clutch in the corners. Do like the other guy said and replace the springs during the clutch repair but you may have a work basket or hub. Some oils make the clutch really sticky until the oil warms up so maybe look into that.

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i removed the two thin rings and all i can say is holy sh*t. what a difference. i can now roll the bike in gear easily, it doesn't creep ahead in first gear, it shifts really well and its easy to find neutral. i highly recommend doing this mod if u r experienceing any of these problems. its easy to do and only takes about an hour. ull be glad u did it!

i didnt get a chance to drill the clutch boss because i couldnt get the nut off to get the clutch boss out. does anyone know how to take it off properly? but im definitely going to try this mod as well because the inside clutch plates looked like they could use a bit more oil. pm me if you have any trouble doing any one of these mods.

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ok. just finished drilling the clutch boss. that made a difference as well. not as big as the two thin rings but doing both mods made the clutch 100% better. i drilled my holes a bit smaller then the holes that r already there so the top end doesnt go dry of oil. big :thumbsup: to these 2 mods. :thumbsup:

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Ifyou can do only 1 mod, be sure it is to install Cannon Racecraft springs. Then drill the inner hub, I did it to mine but instead of the 3 holes that are there from the factory I put 2 in each channel next to the already drilled holes. Do not remove the spacer rings.

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