Easiest way to intall T-cable at carb?

I'm at the point where I can just pop that FCR-MX carb on and off no sweat... except for the throttle cables. Is there a trick I'm missing? I never fail to get 'em fiddled back on, but there must be an easier way.

Right now they are the last step in putting my carb back on. I leave the cables un-bolted and slide the throttle "key" on halfway, then poke at the cable with one two few hands, and too large of fingers, until I can get the cable to slip/pop/bend over the right way.

Talk to me.

Why are you taking your FCR-MX on and off so much???I've never taken mine out for tuning purposes after it was initially installed for the conversion.

Well the first time was such a bear for me I guess it feels like I've done it more than I really have. I also neglected to pick up a Kientech screw the first time, so that was another one.

Bike starts great, idles great, no bog anywhere, and seems spot on when I'm "on it", but it likes to gently surge with a steady throttle at slow speeds, like when commuting in traffic. Not real bad... but I took it off again to verify all the bits were exactly what I thought they were, and make sure everything was snug, no leaks. Tried a #42 pilot, but that had little effect except to require the fuel screw get turned out more, so I plan on putting the 45 back in and trying a clip position on the needle. :thumbsup:

The tank etc., and carb come off so quick now, I was just wondering if there was a trick to getting the cables back on without fiddly fiddling.



EMN 3rd from flat side

200 Main Air Jet

Slow Air Jet removed

160 Main

45 Pilot



Yosh Ti (plugged up)

I don't know.My bike was rich all the way around and I ended up having to lean every cicuit out a little to make it run real smooth.My 1/8 - 1/4 throttle surging and hunting and sluggish response was taken care of by going to the 42 pilot jet and careful adjustment of the fuel screw.I also went to the EMR needle on the 3rd or 4th clip.For the top end I went to a 155 main.Make sure you don't have any air leaks around your manifold,airboot or adapter.I also run my Ti pipe completely uncorked and wear earplugs.

Your altitude and set-up seem so close to mine, I'll give the EMN with the 42 a try before I go back to the 45.

I used to just leave the cables attached to the carb.

Or if they are already off, fit them to the carb before re-fitting to the bike.

Neil. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :busted:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By BikeChimp
      I'd like to turn my UK 2004 DRZ400S back to stock airbox (snorkel) and jets, needle shim position etc
      When I bought it the PO had fitted a Sigma6 kit and done the 3x3 mod but is doesn't have a tapered needle like the JD and other kits. Took me ages to get it running right, however it still runs rich and I'm fed up of arsing around with it. 
      So I've bought a standard airbox without 3x3 hole, stock exhaust.
      Q1 The Suzuki manual says this Mukuni BSR36 (29FA) carb should have a 142.5 Main Jet but the Clymer manual say its a 135.  In UK everything's from sea level to 1000m. I'm in Sheffield so nothing gets above 500m even in the Peaks (Hills). Any UK owners or anyone else know what the correct jet should be?
      Q2 Says the original needle is a '5DH36-2nd'. The needle has 5 notches on it. Currently set at 2 clip from bottom. The Suzuki reference says needle is 5DH36-2nd, Does the 2nd bit mean 2nd from top or bottom?
      Q3 - Does anyone have a detailed photo of the shim order just in case it was assembled wrong. (mine is attached)
      I know most people on here are going to be horrified I'm taking back to stock but any help on above would be really appreciated.

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .