What did you do to your WR today?

Took it out for a little fun.  Almost had the place to myself , probably cause it was 103 in the shade .

 

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It's time to upgrade the forks , they suck . most likely just going to do the Gold Valves over the YZF fork swap.....maybe.

 

 

Edit ......Race Tech Gold Valves ordered !!!

Edited by still2smokin

I'm eventually going to disassemble the FC valving to see what all they did and try to copy it over to the WR with maybe a couple of changes since the WR weighs a lot more.

But there is so much to be said for revalving a suspension!

 

I'll send some good karma your way if you share the settings.  I'm not interested in copying them, but I sure would like to learn about what they do.  I'm going to revalve the forks on my 2012 WR450F.  I'll share the stock settings and what I do when I do it.

 

I'd love to know what your YZ250F weighs for comparison.

Rode it for 3 days in the Sierra's up by Bass Lake and the Miami trail system. All I can say is WOW, what a difference. How I have been describing it has been it's like riding a Mtn bike with a motor. It is so nimble and easy to flick around. The power delivery is as they say, more linear, which I always twisted into "boring", but it makes it much easier to ride and doesn't tire you out. After 3 days of darting around in the trees, I was ready for more.

 

Which KTM is that ?

 

You made that hill look easy.   Why are the other riders stuck on it ?

I'll send some good karma your way if you share the settings. I'm not interested in copying them, but I sure would like to learn about what they do. I'm going to revalve the forks on my 2012 WR450F. I'll share the stock settings and what I do when I do it.

I'd love to know what your YZ250F weighs for comparison.

No problem at all, I'd be happy to. I'll probably do it when I change the oil next. The only thing I won't be able to determine is the pressure spring rate (little spring in the comp valve assembly), but shim stacks are what I'm really after.

Also, it's a YZ250 2 stroke - it's around 227 lb full of fluids all stock. Only non-stock stuff I have adding weight is a set of Cycras, a fly wheel weight, and some EE radiator braces...so maybe between 230-235 lb or so? All I know is jumping the WR is like jumping a Bradley Fighting Vehicle compared to the "little" 2 stroke! It is a beast (now that I solved a clogged spark arrestor issue and put in a new top end with some head machining), handles so lightly and predictably, and is so, so light and yet stable. The suspension helps all that significantly.

So anyway, sorry...I will post those shim stacks next time I get into the forks. The shock might take me longer (to build up the courage to open it up...).

Here's what it looks like (just did plastics/graphics last weekend):

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A 140/80/18 will last a bit longer and is even a bit more bad ass and good hook up.

 

I put a 140 M5B on my WR450F about a month ago.

 

I haven't ridden in really slick mud with it yet, but yes it hooks up great in anything that is loose, including the bit of mud that I did ride in. 

 

The front edge of the knobs do round off fast if you are riding in rocks and are on the throttle a lot.   Some people swear by the Michelin S12, saying it has similar bite and somehow the knobs stay square on it.  I haven't tried it yet.

 

The 140 M5B does rub on the inside of my FMF muffler though.  I'll have to put a spacer between the muffler mount and the sub frame to give the tire a bit more clearance.

 

I'm not sure a WR450F needs a 140, especially a tire like the M5B.   On the other hand, I've "cleared" every hill I've tried to climb since I mounted it.  By cleared, I mean that I didn't have to get off and push.  I may have had to restart a hill, but that is due to pilot skill deficit, not bike/tire issues.   In contrast, I frequently lost traction with the stock MX51 rear tire. 

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

No problem at all, I'd be happy to. I'll probably do it when I change the oil next. The only thing I won't be able to determine is the pressure spring rate (little spring in the comp valve assembly), but shim stacks are what I'm really after.

So anyway, sorry...I will post those shim stacks next time I get into the forks. The shock might take me longer (to build up the courage to open it up...).

Here's what it looks like (just did plastics/graphics last weekend):

 

Nice looking bike !  Nice combo, WR450F and YZ250.  I'm jealous.

 

Did they valve them specifically for woods ?  They are SSS forks ?   I'm interested to see how they made them plush on the high speed stuff, yet resistant to bottoming.  I'll share my WR stack when I pull it apart, which won't be long after you share your stack !   I've been holding off on pulling mine apart because I have no idea what a good woods stack would look like if I did.

 

How is the bottom end on the YZ250 ?  Which bike climbs better ?

 

FWIW, my WR450F now weighs about 241 without fuel.  I ordered 08 YZ cams for it today, for the fun of it.  Between them and the ECU programmer, I'm going to play around with engine response and power shaping.  Should be fun.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

Which KTM is that ?

 

You made that hill look easy.   Why are the other riders stuck on it ?

That was my new 2014 KTM 350EXC that I picked up the previous day on my way up to this ride.  

 

The first rider I passed (WR250) decided he was gonna wait for the dust to clear.  I said, full steam ahead, ain't got time for dat :goofy: .  The 2nd rider got knocked off of his line by a rock cause he couldn't see in the dust and he is on a heavy 450X :p .  The last rider I passed, who was leading and had clear vision AND was also on a 350 EXC just sucks  :lol:  :lol:

 

Here's another little hill climb I did last Saturday :jawdrop:

http://youtu.be/BCVlktZcyrk

The older I get the more I hate rocky hill climbs :banghead:

Edited by byggd

I put a 140 M5B on my WR450F about a month ago.

 

I haven't ridden in really slick mud with it yet, but yes it hooks up great in anything that is loose, including the bit of mud that I did ride in. 

 

The front edge of the knobs do round off fast if you are riding in rocks and are on the throttle a lot.   Some people swear by the Michelin S12, saying it has similar bite and somehow the knobs stay square on it.  I haven't tried it yet.

 

The 140 M5B does rub on the inside of my FMF muffler though.  I'll have to put a spacer between the muffler mount and the sub frame to give the tire a bit more clearance.

 

I'm not sure a WR450F needs a 140, especially a tire like the M5B.   On the other hand, I've "cleared" every hill I've tried to climb since I mounted it.  By cleared, I mean that I didn't have to get off and push.  I may have had to restart a hill, but that is due to pilot skill deficit, not bike/tire issues.   In contrast, I frequently lost traction with the stock MX51 rear tire. 

 

 

 

 

Our group is pretty much exclusive on M5B's, you gotta have them or else you don't make it.  It does help to have less air in them to keep them from spinning and wearing out the knobs too quick. We all use knobby knife's to freshen the edge when necessary. The thinner the knob gets you get more hook up. Surprised your pipe hits the tire, none of ours does. Maybe a little bent ?

Edited by stevethe

Our group is pretty much exclusive on M5B's, you gotta have them or else you don't make it.  It does help to have less air in them to keep them from spinning and wearing out the knobs too quick. We all use knobby knife's to freshen the edge when necessary. The thinner the knob gets you get more hook up. Surprised your pipe hits the tire, none of ours does. Maybe a little bent ?

 

My group runs M5Bs though there was a trials tire on our last ride.  Another group I was talking with was almost exclusive with Michelin S12s.   They said similar traction but the knobs stayed sharper on them.

 

I was just wondering about a knobby knife yesterday.  Which one are you using, how do you like it and how does one freshen a tire with it ?  If you cut the leading edge and make the knob thinner, doesn't it rip off at some point ?  I'm just about to slap a trials tire on my bike to save the M5B for wet spring and fall riding.

 

FWIW, I was running 9-10 PSI in my M5B.  I don't think it was spinning much, but I was on the throttle pretty good, having a blast.

 

As far as hitting the pipe, I have a 2012, which is thinner through the back and I'm running an FMF.   There wasn't much clearance with the 120 MX51 either as the knobs on it were wiping the side of the pipe.   The M5B leaves rubber though.  A simple spacer will eliminate the problem. 

We call that stuff a little up hill trail.

 

I was thinking the same thing but a) didn't know if the camera was distorting the angle and difficulty and B) didn't want to say it. 

 

When I was watching it, I was thinking that I'd roost that trail in 2nd gear all the way on my WR, which would have been quite a bit faster, even with 12/52 gearing.  But sometimes videos distort reality.   After all, there was another bike stuck on that climb and in a previous video the OP passed several bikes on that hill too.

My group runs M5Bs though there was a trials tire on our last ride.  Another group I was talking with was almost exclusive with Michelin S12s.   They said similar traction but the knobs stayed sharper on them.

 

I was just wondering about a knobby knife yesterday.  Which one are you using, how do you like it and how does one freshen a tire with it ?  If you cut the leading edge and make the knob thinner, doesn't it rip off at some point ?  I'm just about to slap a trials tire on my bike to save the M5B for wet spring and fall riding.

 

FWIW, I was running 9-10 PSI in my M5B.  I don't think it was spinning much, but I was on the throttle pretty good, having a blast.

 

As far as hitting the pipe, I have a 2012, which is thinner through the back and I'm running an FMF.   There wasn't much clearance with the 120 MX51 either as the knobs on it were wiping the side of the pipe.   The M5B leaves rubber though.  A simple spacer will eliminate the problem. 

 

So we run them with very little air especially when new, due to it being stiff and not broke in.

 

As far as a knobby knife, I use a very expensive German old school one. Not necessary though. Just buy a good knobby knife and maybe cut a grove in the middle of the front of knob. Eventually they do rip knobs, I still run them then when really beat buy a new tire.

I was thinking the same thing but a) didn't know if the camera was distorting the angle and difficulty and B) didn't want to say it. 

 

When I was watching it, I was thinking that I'd roost that trail in 2nd gear all the way on my WR, which would have been quite a bit faster, even with 12/52 gearing.  But sometimes videos distort reality.   After all, there was another bike stuck on that climb and in a previous video the OP passed several bikes on that hill too.

 

Yeah Kennedy Meadows doesn't have big hills.

 

These are some big blue bike hills.

Yeah Kennedy Meadows doesn't have big hills.

 Did both the climbs with the camera on the bike (rider POV) climb entirely in 1st gear ?

 

I'm not the only one that wishes 2nd gear was closer to first ?  FWIW, 12/52 gearing helps with that issue, but doesn't cure it.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

Did both the climbs with the camera on the bike (rider POV) climb entirely in 1st gear ?

I'm not the only one that wishes 2nd gear was closer to first ? FWIW, 12/52 gearing helps with that issue, but doesn't cure it.

Those are third gear to second gear power hills. They cannot be made in first it's too low. Bike had stock gearing but it's built.

Camera is on the side of the helmet.

Edited by stevethe

Those are third gear to second gear power hills. They cannot be made in first it's too low. Bike had stock gearing but it's built.

Camera is on the side of the helmet.

 

I must have missed the shifts.   And the climbs don't seem that fast, especially the first one ?  Wheelspin ?

I must have missed the shifts. And the climbs don't seem that fast, especially the first one ? Wheelspin ?

Yes there is wheelspin all the way up the hill. The trick is to seat in the right position to get enough traction yet not flip the bike. The clutch is also used to not flip it and not let off even for a second.

There is a huge difference to just pinning a bike and doing hilcimbs to riding a trail that includes inclines, rocks and loose DG at over 9,000' elevation :goofy:   That video was over 10 minutes long and I was pretty damn exhausted when I got to the top which was at 9,350'.  I can sit and pin my WR450 and climb any hill out in the Spangler Sand Hills (Invader) all day long.  That is nothing compared to this.  Apples to oranges.

 

Or go down the Royal Flush :lol:

Jimmy Fall Down.jpg

Edited by KennyMc

There is a huge difference to just pinning a bike and doing hilcimbs to riding a trail that includes inclines, rocks and loose DG at over 9,000' elevation :goofy:   That video was over 10 minutes long and I was pretty damn exhausted when I got to the top which was at 9,350'.  I can sit and pin my WR450 and climb any hill out in the Spangler Sand Hills (Invader) all day long.  That is nothing compared to this.  Apples to oranges.

 

Or go down the Royal Flush :lol:

attachicon.gifJimmy Fall Down.jpg

 

KennyMc,

Just one big problem, that isn't spangler's sand girls I mean womans hills. :facepalm:

You want some big apples  :jawdrop:  I know just where to find them as soon as the weather cools down. :thumbsup:

 

My Kennedy Meadows bike is a little girls learners bike. She'll do anything in Kennedy :devil:

Not to take anything out of your ride. There are strenuous rides in Kennedy just not too much in the way of big hills at least that I'm aware of.

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Edited by stevethe

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