Speedbleeders-The Whole Story

I may have started the whole speedbleeders thing since I LOVE 'EM, so for everyone who is brake-challenged, Here's what they are and some tips on use.

Made by Russell, they are replacement bleeding valves-appx $13 for two available through White Bros and others. The stock valves will suck in air if open AND releasing the brake, a common source of frustration and problems.

The Russell's will not allow air back in the caliper so you don't have to keep opening and shutting this valve in unison with actuating the brake to pump the old fluid out (and making sure you don't run the master dry AND spill fluid all over the place AND not to scream at your wife in the process).

Here's how to install and how to use.

First install them. Just remove the old valve and quickly insert the Russell. Yes some air will get in, but not for long!. Be ready to catch somewhere between a few drops and a small stream coming from the bleeder, clean it up right away with solvent. The size is 8.25x1.25mm. They are a little longer than stock, but they fit correctly.

Ok so now they're in. 1.) Cover the area around the master cyl to catch dripping 2.) Remove the master cyl cover. 3.) Loosen the bleed valve 1/8-1/4 turn. 4.) Attach a clear hose to the valve and run it into a container. 5.) Pull the brake in, then release it quickly. May want to place the lid back on (not screwed down) to avoid splashing while releasing quickly, although mine didn't splash. 6.) Repeat while adding fluid slowly until bled fluid is new looking (about 20-25 pumps). At this point you have flushed the entire system in 5 minutes and there is minimal, but some air if fresh fluid is poured in slowly. 7.) Tap, shake, or rattle the brake line several times starting from the bottom to encourage air bubbles to come to the top. Bend the top hose down so bubbles will rise to the top of the system. Bleed until all tiny air bubbles stop coming up into the master cylinder-probably just a few pulls and hard releases will do the trick. 8.) Tighten bleeder valve (fr and rear 4.3 ft/lbs for '00 WR), fill master cyl halfway and replace the lid, check the level 9.) Enjoy brakes that work!

At this point you are 99.5% air free.

You may notice even better performance if you bleed (not flush) once again after the next ride. Just loosen from clamps,tap the lines and bleed a few times and you're 100% done

I have used them on 3 bikes now, one w/ a hydraulic clutch all met with excellent success. A must have for painless bleeding :)

There is debate regarding brake fluid brand, but not type. I think all can agree to use Dot4, no one agrees as to brand. Some say Ford, yes Ford makes some killer stuff as does Amsoil. Others use Castrol or auto-store stuff. I use Castrol GTX Dot4, but there are better fluids out there-just haven't tried anything else. My advise is to use new Dot4 with the highest boiling point you can get

'Nuff Said :D

If this checks out with anyonee else who knows the Russell and brakes, maybe Bryan can can post it to the tech section.

Sorry if I don't respond right away, I'll be out of town for awhile. Good luck!

I would just like to add that you should do a couple of bleeds every 2-3 months to stop the little valve inside from corroding and sticking, I have heard this is the only drawback with speed bleeders, but to me that wouldn't be a problem.


R o d. H. Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>

400 Thumpers Australia</A>

2000 WR400F,White Brothers E-Series Tapered header, Devol Rad. guards, Renthals, WB frame guards, UFO rear guard and fork guards, Braided brake line, Throttle Jockey YZ426 graphics and grippy seat.

Thanks guys.

Funny, I bled my brakes the other night and never could get a firm feel at the lever. That's probably why.

I'll call White Bros in the next few days and order mine.

And good idea about posting this in the tech section.


I never had a problem with them sticking, and bleed them every year on the street bike, every 6 months for the dirt bikes.

Does anyone know which thread size and pitch we need;

8mm x 1.25

7mm x 1.00?



Its 8mm. I bought and installed them today works great! Boy they are long, there are about 2 or 3 threads left even after it is fully seated.

On a slightly different note, when the brake pads get low is there "much" difference in lever pull and stopping distance? Or is it just something you can see?


You shouldn't be able to feel any difference in the lever as your pads wear, just like in your car. Disc brakes are "self adjusting" unlike drum brakes that need to be adjusted as the shoes wear.


'99 WR400

'92 GSXR 7/11

Visit my photo album AT YOUR OWN RISK!! My photo album

Anyone here a sportbike fan also? Then visit us here at www.insanespeed.com

Just wanted to pass on some info on a VERY cool tool I picked up a couple of years ago that literally turns the somewhat painful chore of bleeding motorcycle brakes into a job that can be accomplished in literally seconds without even touching the brake pedal or lever. The tool is known as a “Mityvac”. It is simply a vacuum pump you connect to the bleed valve. Top off the fluid reservoir. With the bleed valve closed, you create a vacuum using the Mityvac, then crack open the bleed valve allowing the air and fluid to be pulled from within the brake system and into a catch bottle (also under the vacuum) that comes with and attaches to the Mityvac. Once the air bubbles subside, quickly close the caliper bleed valve and Eureka! You are done. It really does take only a few seconds. As with all bleeding operations, you need to pay attention the fluid level in the reservoir and not allow it to run dry. There are several models of Mityvacs available. The one I use (P/N 6820) cost $30.00 (US). Further info can be obtained from this link http://mityvac.com/kits.html#6820

Thanks, mcarp! I order some speedbleeders after reading your forum article. They should be a great addition and will make any emergency minor brake bleeding job in the heat of battle (middle of the Enduro your running, your on your minute, and your brake goes soft!) very easy to accomplish. I ordered my speedbleeders from http://www.speedbleeder.com They also cost $6.50 each (same as White Bros), however, there is no sales tax for the guys that live in CA (unlike White Bros). They arrived in my mailbox 4 days after I ordered them along with some other useful info. The speedbleeder web site has a good written and visual explanation of how it works and is worth looking at if your curious. I haven’t tried my speedbleeders out yet. I’ll install them when I get my fastline replacement hoses I have on order.

If you are worried about the check valve in the speedbleeder getting corroded and possibly stuck, you could always hook up the Mityvac periodically and exercise the check valve while leaving the bleed valve closed in the caliper. With this process, you will not affect your brake system at all since the bleed valve does not have to be opened.

Something I also found at the speedbleeder site is some high quality thread sealant. This is the same red sealant that you see on the new bleed valves. If you dork with your bleed valve enough (opening & closing many times) the thread sealant will eventually wear off and it will start to leak air back into system whenever you are bleeding your brakes. This sealant is in a liquid form and is applied with a small brush to the threads and then baked on in the oven at 200F for 10 minutes. Some guys use Teflon tape on the bleed valve threads, but be advised, it is easy for small pieces of the tape to come off during installation and possibly foul your brake system.

Hope this also helps those who are brake-challenged!

Happy (open) Trails


Hey Bryan, have you tried the speedbleeders yet? Anyone else used them? I wanted to add that so far 3 years I have used them, never had a leaking problem around the threads. Sounds like the liquid tape is the way to go to solve that problem, if it ever arises.

The Mityvac is a good tool, need to get one to do my truck. It will make bleeding brakes a snap!

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