I may have started the whole speedbleeders thing since I LOVE 'EM, so for everyone who is brake-challenged, Here's what they are and some tips on use. Made by Russell, they are replacement bleeding valves-appx $13 for two available through White Bros and others. The stock valves will suck in air if open AND releasing the brake, a common source of frustration and problems. The Russell's will not allow air back in the caliper so you don't have to keep opening and shutting this valve in unison with actuating the brake to pump the old fluid out (and making sure you don't run the master dry AND spill fluid all over the place AND not to scream at your wife in the process). Here's how to install and how to use. First install them. Just remove the old valve and quickly insert the Russell. Yes some air will get in, but not for long!. Be ready to catch somewhere between a few drops and a small stream coming from the bleeder, clean it up right away with solvent. The size is 8.25x1.25mm. They are a little longer than stock, but they fit correctly. Ok so now they're in. 1.) Cover the area around the master cyl to catch dripping 2.) Remove the master cyl cover. 3.) Loosen the bleed valve 1/8-1/4 turn. 4.) Attach a clear hose to the valve and run it into a container. 5.) Pull the brake in, then release it quickly. May want to place the lid back on (not screwed down) to avoid splashing while releasing quickly, although mine didn't splash. 6.) Repeat while adding fluid slowly until bled fluid is new looking (about 20-25 pumps). At this point you have flushed the entire system in 5 minutes and there is minimal, but some air if fresh fluid is poured in slowly. 7.) Tap, shake, or rattle the brake line several times starting from the bottom to encourage air bubbles to come to the top. Bend the top hose down so bubbles will rise to the top of the system. Bleed until all tiny air bubbles stop coming up into the master cylinder-probably just a few pulls and hard releases will do the trick. 8.) Tighten bleeder valve (fr and rear 4.3 ft/lbs for '00 WR), fill master cyl halfway and replace the lid, check the level 9.) Enjoy brakes that work! At this point you are 99.5% air free. You may notice even better performance if you bleed (not flush) once again after the next ride. Just loosen from clamps,tap the lines and bleed a few times and you're 100% done I have used them on 3 bikes now, one w/ a hydraulic clutch all met with excellent success. A must have for painless bleeding There is debate regarding brake fluid brand, but not type. I think all can agree to use Dot4, no one agrees as to brand. Some say Ford, yes Ford makes some killer stuff as does Amsoil. Others use Castrol or auto-store stuff. I use Castrol GTX Dot4, but there are better fluids out there-just haven't tried anything else. My advise is to use new Dot4 with the highest boiling point you can get 'Nuff Said If this checks out with anyonee else who knows the Russell and brakes, maybe Bryan can can post it to the tech section. Sorry if I don't respond right away, I'll be out of town for awhile. Good luck!