WR Brakes Suck!!!!


I too have been contemplating the Fastline kit. I thought my 91 CR250 Honda brakes were quite superior, BUT, my Honda weighed 40# less than our WR's. I plowed into a car w/ my Honda 750 a few years back. If I had steel brake lines, I know I would have stopped in time. It is a proven fact that the rubber does expand under pressure. Now, does it expand so much to substantially reduce your effective braking power?

You can rationalize it this way: The first time you smash into something because your brakes suck, you will regret not buying the steel line. It is kind of like insurance, when you need it, you need it. Or like your riding gear. You wear it because it makes you feel safer AND it does keep you as safe as possible given the circumstances (plus the chicks think it's cool, well cool chicks think it's cool).

I am trying to rationalize this myself. I am effectively trying to persuade myself I need the Fastline kit, along w/ Thumper Rad Guards. Now I have the DSP airbox kicking me in the face (Thanks alot, Mitch!!). I cannot get enough bottom end. I was planning on getting the FMF PB and PC-IV/2-SA to improve my bottom end. Now I am looking at DOUBLING my cost.

Will this ever end??

[This message has been edited by Kevin in New Hampshire (edited 07-02-2000).]

It's funny Kevin you and I are on the same wavelength with respect to the parts we want to get. I just bought my stabalizer and am already pondering my next purchase. Probably YZ seat and tank, but like you I NEED rad guards, the DSP box and, like you, I'm eternally confused about exhaust. It looks as though the FMF squared and powerbomb system is just about the best when you compare power and sound...SH**!! Why can't life be easier!!! <GGGRRRIIINNN>



JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender


I think I'll have a beer and think about this some more...what to buy, NOW!!!


99 WR, all YZ mods, de-octopused, OEM YZ tank and seat, jetting by Clark, got forked by Pro Action.


For clarification: WE'LL be having a KICK ASS time in Moab!! Right Mitch?!!

I too though the WR brakes SUCK!

I took it to a mechanic because I had air bubbles I couldn't get out. He pulled the whole assembly off the bike and hung the lever from the celing, and bled it. being in a vertical position, all the air came up with ease. I breaks are now, for the first time, acceptibal. I am going to get an oversized roter, (after first getting steel braded line). I suggest hanging it, and you'll be suprised......

I quick fix until you get the line.

I dont think the brakes were ever good but now I've got an air bubble I cant seem to get rid of. Even using my Russel bleeders. I think what I'll do is take off the whole assembly lay it out straight and then bleed it.

Anyway, my question for you all is, should I invest in the Fastline WR kit? I use my front brakes alot and defintely want more solid brakes. I actually had a dealer talk me out of buying the Fastline kit, they said that adjusting the lever out all the way worked just as well. I haven't had a chance to do this adjustment because of this persistant air bubble, but does this really compare to the Fastline kit?


JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender

I am not positive but arent the 426 brakes the same as the WR? I bled my brakes prior to the first ride and replaced the fluid with Motul Racing Brake fluid. I found the brakes to not be honda strong, but more than acceptable. Eventually I did go to the Fastline on the front. Now they are Honda strong. It is one of the cheapest investments you can make with the greatest performance return.

As far as the FMF PB and 4 squared, all that I can say is awesome. I am running the non s/a model. There is a very noticible improvement in the bottom and mid. I ride stricly mx. The bike will now pull agear taller out of the corners and jumps that I was not able to clear before due to a tight corner with a short run to the jump face are now doable. I was very impressed and a much better exhaust system over stock.

Hi JJ & Kev

looking to blow your money again lads! there's a bottomless pit over here why don't you try that!

the brakes are good on this model & the disc is big enough. the cylinder has the travel you'd expect so i think that that's OK. it just feels crap. how about a mastercylinder with the same piston size off another manufacturer? don't add unnecassary weight.

i wouldn't put a braided line on. the brake isn't sensitive now, by the time you put the braided on you'll be pulling on 2 pieces of 4 by 2. yug!!!

check the piston size against something like the KLX which has great brakes. you've gotta f-e-e-e-l your way in r-e-a-l s-s-l-l, i mean bl**** late.

in a previous post you'll note clark & i pushed the fluid up & not down the traditional way. read that post for tips (early June?).

try bleeding by undoing the banjo bolt after the bike has stood for a night. pump the leverthree times, pull in, undo the banjo slightly, close it again, release lever.

also try this JJ. push the caliper pistons in & out a couple of times & then fit new pads in caliper which is off the fork leg. put the caliper on the disc, pump the brake up does this make a difference?

rotate the wheel until the caliper tries to go past it's mounting holes. see if it hits the leg or sits 1mm away from the leg. if so let me know.

I have a fastline brake line, and you certainly wont need a bigger rotor with one of these. With 2 fingers you can lock it up, sometimes too easy, and mine is even better than a new KTM400 that I rode, and I still think there is a bit od air in it.


RodH Canberra, Australia<A HREF="http://www.400thumpers.oz-au.com" TARGET=_blank>

400 Thumpers Australia</A>

2000 WR400F See Photo's and Modifications

Fastline brakeline up front is the way to go. I also routed it like a CR250 to shorten it also. I almost bought the bigger rotor and brake combo because coming off a YZ250 this thing feels like I'm trying to stop a cement truck in the woods.

Changing brake pads is another way to get better stopping. I'm going to order some new ones this week. After this bleed bleed bleed those lines. It's hard to get all the air out of them.

Brian has a write up from me with pictures on the CR routed brakeline. Let me know if you get stuck


00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro

White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

Try adjusting (turn clockwise) the screw at the lever to M.C. I had tried bleeding, back bleeding, russells etc. always seemed spongy, i then turned the screw (@ lever) all the way flush with the lock nut and they now work alot better. ( it had always been spongy since new.

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