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Adjustment on timing chain for xr200....

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I have recently bought a 2001 xr200 and it sounds like the timing chain is rubbing somewhere and I tried the adjuster by unscrewing the 10mm bolt and then the 14mm and it may have gotten a little more quiet but not completely. So my question is.. am I doing this right, and if so, then what else could I do to quiet it down, or is it even a problem to leave it like that? Thanks!!

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The service manual for 2001-2002 states to start the engine and allow it to idle. Then loosen the cam chain tensioner adjusting bolt,(which is the 14mm bolt). It does not state how much to loosen the bolt but 1/4 to 1/2 is all you need. Then torque it back to 19 N-m or 14 lb-ft. You don't need to mess with the 6mm bolt.

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It is very possible that your chain is too stretched and can no longer be adjusted with the tensioner. I literally just finished putting a new Powroll chain in my new to me XR200 an hour ago and the bike is drastically more quiet now and I had the same symptons as your bike. Not too hard to do and can be done with the motor in the bike.

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Sounds like could be the very common with 200 engines stuck adjuster, and or damaged adjuster shaft. I have posted several times on this, cause and cure. I get the feeling most don't want to deal with the problem ......... really pretty simple.:excuseme:

The OEM (not cheap after market) timing chain, when not put on worn sprockets or guides and adjusted properly is fine. We run one on the Old School XR200R and with going on four years riding / racing it is holding up great.

Old School Al

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I have a related follow up question:

I have a "tick" while running, and I now believe it was a badly adjusted intake valve on my 01 XR200. I first attempted to remove the valve cover to get a clear picture of how things operated in there, but even though there is not enough clearance to fully remove the valve cover I am not able to get the valve cover (cam cap really) to seat fully back onto the head.

Possibly the timing chain jumped teeth, but without a manual I am at a loss.

Could someone tell me where the indicators are on a gear/flywheel to line up TDC for the compression stroke?

Also, is there then a mark or a number of cam chain links to verify the cam timing is correct? I just want to verify the timing of the motor now...

Last, should the valve cover/cam cap simply just drop back into place, and should this be done at TDC?

One more, anyone able to tell me the correct intake/exhaust clearances?

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

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I have a related follow up question:

I have a "tick" while running, and I now believe it was a badly adjusted intake valve on my 01 XR200. I first attempted to remove the valve cover to get a clear picture of how things operated in there, but even though there is not enough clearance to fully remove the valve cover I am not able to get the valve cover (cam cap really) to seat fully back onto the head.

Possibly the timing chain jumped teeth, but without a manual I am at a loss.

Could someone tell me where the indicators are on a gear/flywheel to line up TDC for the compression stroke?

Also, is there then a mark or a number of cam chain links to verify the cam timing is correct? I just want to verify the timing of the motor now...

Last, should the valve cover/cam cap simply just drop back into place, and should this be done at TDC?

One more, anyone able to tell me the correct intake/exhaust clearances?

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Well, after more fiddling the valve cover now sits flush.

Also, I have found the valve adjustment info on here, and now would love to know what the timing marks are...

Thanks!

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I also recently bought an 01 XR200R that had a noisy chain. I brought it in to the shop and they manually tightened the chain because the auto-tensioner wasn't doing its job. They said the chain has already worn into the engine case and they recommended the best repair would be the chain, tensioner and guides. Does this sound right or is it just the chain that needs replaced. If I do tear the engine down, should any other cam related parts be replaced since I'm in there?

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I also recently bought an 01 XR200R that had a noisy chain. I brought it in to the shop and they manually tightened the chain because the auto-tensioner wasn't doing its job. They said the chain has already worn into the engine case and they recommended the best repair would be the chain, tensioner and guides. Does this sound right or is it just the chain that needs replaced. If I do tear the engine down, should any other cam related parts be replaced since I'm in there?

As I mentioned in the other Cam Chain thread, you will need to pull the engine. Once you get the head off its always a good idea to check things out. These little engines are bullet proof as long as they are taken care of. Not changing the oil or letting it run low will cause them to cannibalize themselves. The rings will eat the cylinder and the cam will eat the journals. So check these areas and then, if all is good, slap it back together, go have a cookie and go riding.

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This summer I was riding with some guys that had been wrenching on XRs since time began... We started up the old '81 200, and it had its usual timing chain noise. Considering how little the bike gets ridden, we have mostly left it alone. I have tried adjusting it, as per the manual's instructions, and it didn't help. Both of them agreed, "Well of course that didn't work." To which I replied, "but the manual says..." They put the piston in TDC, (not running) loosened the nut, and tightened it back up. That bikes timing chain is slient now. Give it a shot, it works.

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Pull your spark plug roll the kickstarter over until you feel air come out the hole, this is compression side, the side you need. You need the piston to be at the very top of its stroke compression side. You could use a ziptie/straw on the piston to watch the stroke. I rebuilt my xr after blowing it up from what was stated above, lack of maintenance and care. Had this problem, went to d&b got a small bolt for the adjuster that was an allen and welded the allen to the bolt that way i could screw it into the adjuster and manually pull it up. With it idling. 

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We've adjusted hundreds of timing chains
It's impossible with the engine running
How can you possibly adjust the chain tensioner with the engine running???
The adjuster would move in & out with the chain moving

 

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Posted (edited)

Lol. As a mechanic, I know exactly what you're saying. I tried adjusting it with it on tdc not running (like a car) and it was still noisey. As the Manuel says with it warm idling loosen the 14mm and tighten it back up and it'll self tension, this didn't work. So the only other idea I could come up with was to get a small bolt and remove the 10mm and pull up on the tensioner. I did this with it tdc off and it was quiet for a second and got noisey the warmer it got. With it idling I repeated the process and it was quiet. 2 years later (today) the tensioner that I should have replaced during the rebuild lol finally gave out. Spent most of today trying to get it to tension up, tdc off get all slack tensioner side pull up tighten put back together start run after about 45 seconds it'll release and start rattling. I have no idea how it works running, it doesn't make any sense to me either but it worked so that's why I posted. My times valuable, and I use this site for problems just as much as anyone else and wouldn't waste my time bs'ing you.

*I suppose the way it's designed is everytime the tensioner gets slack it tightens up and if you're applying pressure that locks it from releasing. Therefore making it possible to adjust running? It's almost hydraulic at that rate lol. Also one more thing, if you're replacing the guides chain and tensioner, why would you not replace the gears? I would highly recommend this.

As for the timing marks I don't remember about the crank but I think it has a dot, like the cam. And it sits up, or there is some sort of indication on the case. I don't remember, as for the cam the dot goes to the little arrow on the head.I would post pictures bUT my data hates me.

Edited by Monty Glass

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The rotor has timing marks, visible by removing the upper plug on the left cover.  The TDC mark has a "T", the initial ignition timing mark has a "F", the total ignition advance has two parallel lines. The F is 10 degrees, the doubles are 28 and 32 degrees.

The tension mechanism has problems with the #10 split collars not releasing their grip on #6,  the fix is:
Remove #9 and the little bolt #15
Loosen #11, maybe 1/4 turn
Insert a small Phillips screw driver into the #15 hole and push down on #6. You should feel pressure from spring #5
If not tap the head of the screw driver to unfreeze the split collars, the spring can now tension the timing chain.
Re tighten #14 but not too tight

E14KA2B05.gif

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Posted (edited)

I don't know about T and Fs but if you remove the cdi, the cam has a dot and the head has an arrow. I don't think I even worried about the crank just made sure I was tdc, the chain also has colored link that's supposed to go to the cam dot if I remember correctly. Mine doesn't have any sort of issue releasing, lol. Getting it to retention is the problem. I can loosen the adjuster and get all the slack on the tensioner side and get just about tight enough where am happy and the damn tensioner will completely release. Looks like it gonna need tore down, guess I'll do the gears this time also lol. When I rebuilt this thing between being strapped and impatient I didn't replace the tensioner or the gears. The cam gear is toast. 

Edited by Monty Glass

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Too much work removing the CDI and if you do it at an engine position other than the "F" mark with the Advancer pointing at the sensor you risk loosing the tiny pin that indexes the Advancer, and it falls down inside the chain case. Just saying.

Another way to adjust the cam chain is to remove both valve covers and turn the engine over until both rockers have play, that is when both cam lobes are facing down and put no load on the cam chain.  Then release and re-lock the cam chain adjuster. 

I don't remember a colored link on any of the chains.

The Honda Service Manual has all of the details.

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Interesting. 3 sockets and 5 mins and I can remove the cdi. I removed mine 3xs yesterday once to pull cam to put the chain on second time cause I was 180 out and a 3rd just to double check. 19mm plug socket, Philip's, an 8mm 1/4 drive and a 10mm. Maybe my chain links were colored cause it was aftermarket.

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On 3/30/2018 at 7:39 PM, Monty Glass said:

Lol. As a mechanic, I know exactly what you're saying. 

 

13 hours ago, Monty Glass said:

I don't know about T and Fs but .......................

 

Hmmmmmmmmmmm..................................:thinking:

 

Old School Al

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Posted (edited)

Haha. I didn't look at the cdi, never knew about it. Actually just the other day realized the timing was adjustable. I dont work on bikes professionally, but I know my way around a vehicle. Never said I was a genius ;p figured the easiest way was to just remove it and look at the cam gear, therefore no second guessing. 

Edited by Monty Glass

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I find tdc on the compression stroke as follows:  1. Remove the intake valve cover. 2. Rotate the engine slowly until the intake valve goes down, then comes back up and stops.  From here continue to rotate slightly until the tdc mark on the flywheel aligns.

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