Define "lugging"

I have read a couple times that lugging the DRZ motor is potentially bad as it might egg out the cylinder.

I ride my S pretty easy, usually between 4K-7K and not under full load below 5K, are you guys talking about down in the off-idle range as lugging? I typically try to keep it above 3500 or so.

Am I in the safe range?:worthy:

If it's not in it's happy place...it's lugging. :)

lugging is when your riding the bike a gear or 2 higher so its riding lower in the RPM range.

Sorry, I should have been more clear, I understand what lugging is...

Just wondering if my normal use RPM range will lead to premature cylinder wear?

I am not the "wring-it-out" type of rider.

Thanks

You'll know if your lugging. But you don't have to be hitting the limiter all the time either. If the engine "sounds" happy, it usualy is. IMHO

So what are my tach options? I didn't get one with mine! :naughty::rant:

db

You'll know when your lugging a DRZ, you can hear the piston slapping against the cylinder wall. I wouldn't worry about ovalling out the cylinder however, its lined with the second hardest material know to man. (Nickel Silicon Carbine) Secondly, I constantly lug the hell out of mine on single track, Its just my riding style. It is just going to result in you doing more maintenence. (I plan on replacing my top end every other season.)

Don't feel bad, mines an 07, and I didn't either. I think I'll be getting a Vapor in the near future though.

Ideally, any time you hit the throttle, the bike should accelerate smartly. If the bike seems to struggle, downshift. If you are cruising along the road, you can upshift as there is most likely plenty of power to maintain speed. Lugging is most definitely at or below 3,500. My bike likes to be at about 5,500 if I plan to accelerate. This are a guess as my bike does not have a tach yet.....

So what are my tach options? I didn't get one with mine! :naughty::rant:

db

I just put one of these on, works good for me but slow refresh rate is not so good for drag racing.

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/gasoline.php

My bike likes to be at about 5,500 if I plan to accelerate.

That is what I find also, with my gearing highway cruising sits me right at about 4800 and I just wanted to make sure I was not doing any damage for a couple hours in that range.

Thanks guys!:thumbsup:

I just put one of these on, works good for me but slow refresh rate is not so good for drag racing.

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/gasoline.php

Thanks for the link. I think I seen that one when I was looking once before. Its cheap enough and is better than no tach. Too bad Suzuki didn't design one into the current instrument panel. Did you get the reset model?

Thanks,

db

Yes, use it for oil change interval info (hrs/miles).

Their commercial unit apparently refreshes quicker, but of course it's more expensive and I'm a cheap-o.

I didn't know that. I also lug mine around singletrack trails all the time.:bonk:

I believe the true definition of lugging is running an engine below its powerband. So essentially if you're running an engine at WOT and rpm's are still declining, technically you're lugging the engine because you're running at least a gear high.

That said, I think it's easier to lug a thumper than a multi-cylinder engine. I err on the side of higher RPM's for sure. Our DRZ's are tractors, but not like a XR400 which seems to like to crawl up hills right above idle. They must have tall pistons or something.

Loop, you have it pretty much nailed. You are on the right track about the 'tall piston' and low rpm capability too.

Low rev'ing engines (tractors) typically have an under square design, ie A Harley. Small diameter pistons in relation to the crank stroke. DRZ is an over square, piston diameter is larger than the stroke. Typically, the more over square an engine is, the higher the rpms is is designed for and the higher the max Hp is on the rev's. More rev's - More HP so for a given displacement, a higher reving engine can have a greater Hp. But.... much less available power at low RPM.

More or less. Not all engines fall into such cut and dry categories, but 90% do.

I have a Tiny Tack on a mostly stock SM, and for me, the engine sounds happiest above 3600-3700 rpm. SO for me, I say lugging is below 3500 rpm or so. It really sounds bad trying to accelerate when the engine is between 3200 and 3500 rpms. I wouldn't torture it by running it below 3200.

when i try and gas my bike while in too high of a gear, i hear a sound not unlike a loose radiator bolt or somthing clicking pretty loud, i downshift and gas and its gone, does anyone elses do this?

its a new bike (1800 miles), so i figured that it was just me lugging badly:excuseme: .

when i try and gas my bike while in too high of a gear, i hear a sound not unlike a loose radiator bolt or somthing clicking pretty loud, i downshift and gas and its gone, does anyone elses do this?

its a new bike (1800 miles), so i figured that it was just me lugging badly:excuseme: .

Piston Slap... Completely normal for this kind of motor. Read Williams post and the other one about piston length :thumbsup:

so normal? i also should add that it really only happens while in deep sand and such, ive never heard it in the street.

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