header weld and lean condition...

so i removed the header pipe, saw 2 things.

1. white on the inside of the pipe where it bolts to the head. lean condition but how is that possible when i am running a 170mj? i mostly put around on the bike in the yard until i get tags on the bike so this bike rarely sees past 2nd gear and is idling alot so would that mean that the idle circuit is lean?

2. header weld is not as bad as people say. to be honest taking off the little amount i have will not yield much at all. i dont have much of weld at all like i see on the pics here that some people have...ill just buy the one jesse sells, not worth it i think to grind this one down. ill get pics but its not big at all to actually make a diff if i grind it off.

clueless.

what year is your dr?

what does the plug look like?

remember that the temp range of the plugs, or I should say, the recommended heat rating per the manual, varies by location. If you're white on the plug, it doesn't necessarily mean you're lean; the book calls for you to bump one grade on the plug. now i can't remember which way is which ..:excuseme:

also, from what you said, you're not using the mainjet.... so if you're airbox is cutup and your filter is hi-flo, etc etc you're just putting around on the slow jet and probably are sucking a lotta air. remember there's three jets in that complex little carb....

thanks for the info, i do believe i am running a 9 plug, 10 i stock right? i have not checked plugs yet, i will today though, its 96 dr650

My Weld,,,,,

2006_0427_115802AA.jpg

i think i know what my lean condition might be from on the idle circiut! i never oiled the uni filter before i installed it!!!! thats basicly running no filter pretty much since the uni is a large porse foam filter!

Even 3mm removed from the header is 15% or so more flow area.

Well worth doing anyway if the header is off.

mines no where near that much weld

Mine was like DD's except the fat part of the goose shit went almost all the way around. Rough calculated guess = 50% bigger opening. The rejetting adventure also showed the airflow had changed a lot

i think i know what my lean condition might be from on the idle circiut! i never oiled the uni filter before i installed it!!!! thats basicly running no filter pretty much since the uni is a large porse foam filter!

Oil that pronto! A foam filter will not stop much dirt without being coated in nice, tacky filter oil. Your engine won't last long at all with a non-oiled foam filter:eek:

just oiled it today, i noticed it starts up much easier, cold start was much better too, also i had less popping and backfire under decel. performance wise under throttle feels the same.

i used the UNI oil but to be honest it doesnt feel tacky, just oily. i should have used the extra tack pj1 crap huh?

I know some folks love that super tacky stuff but once it's in, it never comes out! I like the idea of being able to clean out the oil and grime and repeat the process.

I used shell filter oil, very thick and tacky, took a lot of work to oil the filter and the excess did not want to squeeze out!

I used Bel-ray years ago, and that was tacky, but thin enough to squeeze out the excess oil. I think I'll try a different brand (it seems to me, I don't have enough airflow), stock filter.

Can you just use motor oil for the filter?

Can you just use motor oil for the filter?

Yes, it's what suzuki recommends you oil the stock filter with.

I know some folks love that super tacky stuff but once it's in, it never comes out! I like the idea of being able to clean out the oil and grime and repeat the process.

+1 On that! I use motor oil.

I used to use motor oil but that stuff is more viscous and seemed to accumulate in the air box. Have switched to tackier PJ1 stuff and I don't have a puddle of oil in the air box anymore :-)

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