Thoughts on Scotts Steering Stabilizer

Was thinking about purchasing one of these units but before doing so just wanted to get some input from you guys.

Did you find that the unit helps?

Can they be mounted with different bars?

Can you still fit a pad on either type of bar?

How does the steering feel/react during freestyle jumping?

And any good sources for making the purchase?


You're freestyle jumping a WR! :D


The Scotts unit keeps the bars from being ripped from your hands on "big" hits. I consider it "safety" equipment for Desert Racing. I know I've been saved from some high speed get offs because of it. The best part about the unit is it's tuneablity. You can set it up to help all the time or just on the big hits.

I asked "Scott" about a pad, here is my question and his response:

">Is it possible to install a pad over the >damper if I decide to go with

> the

> >ProTaper mount kit? I was concerned that the unit wouldn't get enough

> >cooling if I put a pad over it. But I've also banged my face on the

> damper

> >during a crash, helmet protected me but I'd still like to get padding

> >between me and the unit.


> Yes, fitting of the crossbar pad over the damper we leave up the

> individual

> simply because no matter how we attempt to approach this goal everyone

> seems to have their own idea of how much pad they want and how much

> exposure of the damper knobs they want. It is totally personal

> preference. The majority of riders do not use a pad with the damper as

> they want to get to the knobs cleanly and quickly. We recommend you use a


> pad. By using a razor blade, you can carve a cavity to your liking so you


> have as much of the damper exposed as suits your particular needs. I have


> seen Protaper pads carved perfectly to fit over the damper with just the

> base valve exposed flush with the top of the pad, the same applies to

> regular cross bar pads. If you don't want to change the damper settings

> while you ride, you can cover the whole thing up. Heat is not a problem

> with our damper as it's designed with extremely tight tolerances allowing

> us to use very thin, high quality oil, that is not affected by normal

> temperature changes.




I've only run with Protapers but they sell mounts for standard bars as well but you'd need to bend the cross bar.

They are pricey but worth it- IHMO - anything that keeps me from wearing plaster is a good thing! :D


Chris in the Mojave

'98 YZ400F

Just installed my Scott's last week. Had to bend the cross bar. A very easy task. :D

My bars are Renthal's. Personally I'd save my money and NOT buy new bars, unless you are still using the stock bars. You'll need the cash to keep the stock chain sliders replaced!! :)

Have almost no experience riding with the damper on this bike. I do not use a cross bar pad.

Seems you could find a bike better suited to freestyle than a WR. But that's what makes the world special, we're all different. Speaking as one who is, perhaps, just a few steps farther down that road. :D



Yes, unit does help and you will notice a difference. How do I know? I was forced to ride my 426 a few times without Scott's after I had become accustomed to it. The difference was eye-opening, literally :)

I now wonder how many past crashes could have been avoided...

Its hard to explain but with a Scott's my bike sort of steers itself. The critical issue, IMO, is that the Scott's "damps" the steering AWAY from center but not BACK to center. So when that rock tries to yank the bars out of your hands the damper is helping you but when you struggle to return the bars to center the damper is not hindering you. Does that make any sense?

I have never noticed any extra fatigue or arm-pump with the Scott's (although somehow I've never gotten arm-pump anyway, knock wood).

I have mounted the Scott's with DeMarini doublewalls w/ pad. They have a bowed crossbar which I just flipped over. Another common trick for using Scott's w/ crossbar is to pull off the damper arm, rotate 180 degrees and reinstall. This rotates damper unit around and places it further back which allows good access and clearance for controls. I was also assured by two different rep.s from Scott's that Renthal Twinwalls' crossbar will also clear the Scott's (I like crossbars :D) Renthal also makes a 7/8" bar w/ bowed crossbar specifically for this application (but they won't sell you the crossbar only).

I have also read that some freeriders use the Scott's (Deegan?).

As for purchasing one I would just call Scott's (818-248-6747). They can answer all your questions and will obviously have everything in stock. I'm not aware of any other source. They also carry lots of handlebars and, in my brief experience with them, are very informative as far as what will or won't work.

One drawback that you should be aware of is that for top clamps with adjustable bar positions you will need a different Scott's bar clamp for every bar position. They are not cheap. So you need to decide what top clamps to run and which bar position you can live with before you buy the Scott's.

One more issue is that stock '00 YZ/WR top clamp contacts the tower mount before it hits the steering stop (98-99 uses a different tower mount). You can remove a little material from the top clamp or live with the small dings made by tower mount.

If you want more technical info the Scott's manual is avail. online in PDF format:

[This message has been edited by Hick (edited 08-16-2000).]

Over the past 15 years I have used the Scotts dampener on the following bikes ATK 560, ATK 406, ATK 600, ATK605, KTM 400, Husaberg 499mx, Husaberg FE600E, Husky 610, WR 400 and cannot recomment it enough. Its hard to explain but it makes any bike better. It keeps the bike going where you want in rocks, it helps big time on twichy bikes in high speed sand washes especially when coming down from speed. The thing just flat works.

Occasionally I will have it off on the workbench while working on the front of my bike and forget to put it back on and go riding. You notice the difference immediatly especially when the going gets ruff or fast.


[This message has been edited by Clark Mason (edited 08-16-2000).]


$370.00 PER UNIT 888-248-9159 THANKS MARK

Putting mine on tonight.

How do you guys have it set up?

Did you mess with the high speed setting? The manual says it would be best not to touch it.

What are your sweep settings at. It comes stock with a 45 degree sweep setting. What does this do when it is changed?

The manual also says do not move the slow speed dial more than 3 clicks counter clockwise. HOWEVER, it says to go 15-18 out to turn "off" the dampner. What do they mean then?

Any thoughts on what I should mess with on the first ride?


Dougie, '99 WR400

Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.

I've set mine up six click out from it hardest setting. They say you should start with it at about 8 clicks out and work from there. Truthfully I've found I only played with it once when I set it from 8 to 6. I haven't found that I 've needed to change any settings at all.

When they say move the clicker 15-18 clicks out to turn it off, I think they just want to show you that it can turn it off if you wish, nothing more.

If I were you I'd leave everything alone except the slow speed adjustment, they really seem to have it dialed in quite well. Like I said above and it says it the manual you should set the slow speed clicker to 8 and work it from there.

Good Luck!


JJ - 99 WR; WR timed, stock jetting, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Terry Cable Hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Russel speed bleeders, Factory Effect graphics, YZ rear fender


1) You're not supposed to move the base valve more than three TURNS counterclockwise, not three clicks, as it may come off.

2) Two complete TURNS (don't know how many clicks that is) out will turn off slow speed circuit. I have found that from 1/2 turn out to 1/4 turn out is where things really start to stiffen up. I run mine at 1/2 turn out but sometimes increase it a click or two. I've never gone stiffer than 1/4 turn out.

3) Sweep screws control the range of motion over which the damper is effective. I've experimented with mine but ended up back at the base or middle of the road setting. At larger sweep settings you can really feel the resistance at slow speeds and quick, sharp turns.

4) IMO you should leave everything as it was out of the box at first, except the base valve. I would start at 1 turn out (anything "softer" than that and you really aren't doing anything) and go from there. Once you're more familiar with it you may want to fiddle with the sweep setting.

Also, for '00 "ring type" tower brackets you may need to take a dremel or some emery cloth to the welds on the steering tube to make the ring fit level and snug. Your (stock Yam) top clamp may also contact the tower bracket before you hit the steering stops (but this way you always know that tower is centered :)). Live with it or remove some material from the back of the clamp. Careful with the allen bolt on the ring clamp, it's kind of soft.

Finally, keep an eye on the tower pin. When new mine had a tendency to "walk" upwards out of the tower mount.

Hope this helps!

Put mine on last night along with the new Scotts triple clamp setup. Sure looks nice. I give it one ride before I trash it :)

Do you guys remove yours on trips when the bikes will be outside over night? The reason I ask is it sure looks easy to ripoff if someone was so inclined to do so. Only two bolts and bam! it's gone forever.

Taking it out this afternoon up at Rampart in CO. Not many rocks to test it out but I just want to get a feel for it right now anyway.


Dougie, '99 WR400 with a lot of dumb, stupid, here take my money, I have to have them but they don't make me a better rider extra mods.

[This message has been edited by Dougie (edited 08-18-2000).]

Originally posted by Dougie:

Do you guys remove yours on trips when the bikes will be outside over night? The reason I ask is it sure looks easy to ripoff if someone was so inclined to do so. Only two bolts and bam! it's gone forever.


I never thought about that. I doubt the thieves that populate the area where I live know what a Scott's is. But they do LOOK expensive, don't they?

Mine was locktighted on so good I ruined a bolt AND the old bar mount drilling it out (at 2 AM) when I changed to bigger bars and Scott's top clamp. That's okay though, now I have an excuse to buy some titanium bolts :D

If I'm gonna worry about that then it should be noted that four bolts and my $450 PC T4 is there for the taking. Not to mention another four or five hundred bucks of carbon fiber foof with even fewer bolts.

If you thieves are reading this LEAVE MY BIKE ALONE!

...steal my pickup instead, just unload the bike first.

The keys are in it... (really)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now